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Old 10-16-2014, 09:52 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by mike brez View Post
The one PanJH posted a picture of is a waaay better way of doing it compared to rv geeks

Way better than their second one? Guess I'll have to watch it.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:57 PM   #30
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There is a newer one by the Geeks. It looks similar to the one in the above photo so you can reset your compressor with out using brakes etc.
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:08 AM   #31
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Dpinvidic I use the same system but I start pumpimg air as soon as on board system cuts in. I Dont wait till guage reaches target pressure before pumping. I keep pumping while guage is going up to on board cut out pressure, cuts out and starts to drop. I Stop pumping before guage reaches target pressure after cut out while guage pressure reading is decreasing. Then bleed and repeat. Works fine and I think quicker.
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:42 AM   #32
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most of your storage tanks will have a 1/4 pipe plug in then just remove it and put in a air hose coupler.. it can be done for around $50 with the hose.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:56 AM   #33
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Using MH compressor to inflate tires?

I keep my Michelen XRV's at 105 psi. I use the on board compressor to top them off if needed, but they hold their pressure perfectly and I only need to top them off once every one or two years. They maintain the 105 psi and never seem to go down!

Haven't needed to add air for the past 10,000 miles.
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:14 AM   #34
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most of your storage tanks will have a 1/4 pipe plug in then just remove it and put in a air hose coupler.. it can be done for around $50 with the hose.
Wouldn't you still have the same problem cycling the compressor? Most plugs on the tanks are on the bottom right were all the water/moisture is sitting.
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:19 AM   #35
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Dpinvidic I use the same system but I start pumpimg air as soon as on board system cuts in. I Dont wait till guage reaches target pressure before pumping. I keep pumping while guage is going up to on board cut out pressure, cuts out and starts to drop. I Stop pumping before guage reaches target pressure after cut out while guage pressure reading is decreasing. Then bleed and repeat. Works fine and I think quicker.
Bill, that's the way I do it also!
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:53 AM   #36
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This would work fine, but you would want to connect it to the end of your air hose. You need to be at the tire so you can release pressure in the coach if it is below your tire pressure to get your compressor started.
Then once your coach pressure gets higher than your tire pressure, you can start to fill your tire. Otherwise you are running back & forth. The release valve is a great idea so you don't have to go into the coach to pump the brakes.

Dan
or you can use a clip on air chuck and control it from the tap on the coach
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:09 AM   #37
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As the owner of a gas coach with no on board air we were always trying to figure out how to get to a place where we could access enough air pressure to keep our tires properly inflated. Tired of waiting to get to air hoses at gas stations....if we can get close enough to them. We finally decided to purchase a 150 p.s.i. compressor like the ones mentioned early on in this post. Good decision. The unit fits easily in one of our smaller bays along with 50' of air hose and a heavy duty extension cord that reaches the on board 110 v outlet or another outlet wherever we're parked. No problem. Good luck and happy travels.
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:08 AM   #38
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Dpinvidic I use the same system but I start pumpimg air as soon as on board system cuts in. I Dont wait till guage reaches target pressure before pumping. I keep pumping while guage is going up to on board cut out pressure, cuts out and starts to drop. I Stop pumping before guage reaches target pressure after cut out while guage pressure reading is decreasing. Then bleed and repeat. Works fine and I think quicker.
The only thing about doing it this way is that you are actually deflating the tire for a period of time. Air will travel from the higher pressure to the lower pressure. If your tire has 95PSI, and your coach has 85PSI, the tire will actually add air to your coach tank until they balance. Our compressors kick in at 75PSI, and go into bypass mode when the pressure hits 120.

Technically in the example above, your compressor may never kick in if the coach does not get down to 75PSI (or something close).

My thought is to only press the inflator valve if the coach is higher than the tire. Just incase the air system has a problem, I don't want to release any air from the tire if possible.

Dan
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:08 AM   #39
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I figure that while my coach is airing up the pressure coming out of my inflator is actually greater than the guage reading. I believe my inflator is capturing some of the extra air being generated in airing up the coach. My coach certainly continues to gain pressure with inflator engaged and will reach its cutout psi of 130 fairly quickly. It seems to me to inflate my tires much quicker than waiting for the reading to exceed target tire pressure. While I could certainly be wrong it does not seem to me that there is any point during the process when my tire pressure is decreasing.
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:51 AM   #40
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If you are worried about the tire deflating if the compressor pressure is lower than the tire pressure it would be a very simple matter to put a one way check valve in the line near the connector. These are available at any truck parts store. If the line is used to pump up the RV tanks from an auxillary source then a "T" with another fittiing without a check valve would be needed. If I were going to that trouble I would install a small pressure gauge at that point.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:44 AM   #41
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Wait a minute!! Are you inflating these tires from zero or just topping them off? Topping off should be easy with the onboard compressor. However, 125 is alot. Don't fill your tires to the placard limit printed on the side of the tire, it's too much air or you have too little tire. YOu should weigh your rig and get a batter idea of the air required to give you a flat footprint. Mine goes about 105 for a loaded 40 footter using 275/70/22.5 x 6. Nice flat footprint wears evenly and rides great. Too much air wears the middle and rides like a rock. TOO LITTLE IS ALOT WORSE, AND CAN BE FATAL. Any good tire dealer can give you the chart to figure the air needed for your tire size and loaded weight.
What is on the side of RV tires (24" and 22.5") is NOT the maximum the tire should ever have, it's the MINIMUM to support the MAXIMUM rating of the tire.
The pressure on the sidewall of a Michelin RV tire and many others is not the "Maximum" the tire should ever have (unlike car tires) it is the minimum to support the maximum rated carrying capacity of the tire.

From the Michelin RV Tire Guide:
Quote:
"If you look at the tire's sidewall, you'll see the maximum load capacity allowed for the size tire and load rating, and the minimum cold air inflation needed to carry the maximum load."
From page 6 of the GoodYear RV Tire and Care Guide:
Quote:
"How much air is enough?
The proper air inflation for your tires depends on how much your fully loaded RV or trailer weighs. Look at the sidewall of your RV tire and you’ll see the maximum load capacity for the tire size and load rating, as well as the minimum cold air inflation, needed to carry that maximum load."
Inflation Pressure Safety Margin
Toyo Tire does not recommend an “inflate-to-the-load” policy for RV tires. Tires that are inflated to accommodate the vehicle’s actual loads do not have any inflation safety margin. Consequently, even a minor loss of air pressure will cause the tires to be under-inflated and overloaded. Toyo Tire’s policy is to observe (as a minimum) the tire pressure established by the vehicle manufacturer as indicated on the tire information placard. There are multiple reasons why a safety margin
(by inflation) makes sense:
• All tires lose about 1-1.5 PSI per month due to natural permeation of the tire’s internal air pressure through the tire’s rubber membrane.
• In the event of slow air leaks from punctures, an inflation “reserve” may allow detection and repair of the leak prior to reaching a dangerously low inflation level.
• A safety margin is prudent for users who are apathetic regarding tire inflation maintenance.
[/QUOTE]
But then they go ahead and publish a weight/pressure chart allowing lower pressure for RV's!!

From the August 2010 Motorhome Magazine "Tread Carefully" tire article:
Quote:
The maximum load capacity allowed for the size tire and load rating and the minimum cold air inflation needed to carry that maximum load are located on the tire’s sidewall.
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:30 AM   #42
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Michelin says it differently in their tire inflation tables....which IS DIFFERENT from their tire brochure (as Mr.D quoted)
This is a quote from their tire inflation pressure tables:
"The maximum cold air pressure for each axle may vary, depending on their weights.These tables are
applicable for all RV axles, whether or not they are power-driven."


The highest PSI entry in each table (for the highest weight is the same as the entry they have for "MAXIMUM Cold air pressure".

Seems to me there is a range where the pressure gives a "Flat Foot Print", which would be desired for good tire wear. Too low of a pressure would generate heat, and too high would stress the tire.
This is complicated....

Dan
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