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Old 08-29-2016, 08:29 AM   #1
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V10 Manifold Bolts

Has anyone had to deal with replacing the exhaust manifold bolts in an older V10. Mechanic says one bolt is rusted and broken but the exhaust is not yet leaking. Looking at the other bolts, most all are rusted very badly and I'm wondering how they can be replaced without breaking a number of them.What has worked for you? Chuck
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:01 AM   #2
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I'm in the same boat. I have a broken one on #5 cyl. I noticed it last fall. I'm not sure how long its been broken, but I have 5000 miles on it.

I'll be watching this thread...
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:44 AM   #3
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Just had one side done on my Workhorse and replaced with ARP stainless studs. I soaked the studs in Kroil over the winter and they came out by coaxing with an air gun. The broken one was removed by welding a nut to the protruding piece and then removing by working back and forth slowly. The Ford has aluminum heads so removal should be a little easier as mine is cast iron.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:14 AM   #4
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Good info. I have never used Kroil but do use PB Blaster all the time. I will try that first and then the Kroil if no luck. I don't know how they differ. Chuck
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:27 PM   #5
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I have replaced a number of stud sets on ford v10's, the only way to do a proper/ permanent repair is to cut the remaining studs and remove the manifolds, then you will have access to all of the studs for replacement. Most will come out with heat but some will need to be drilled and re tapped, be careful drilling some studs have a water jacket behind them, use a new stud to set drill depth. Once you repair all 20 holes just install one stud on each end of the manifold, slide the manifold on the studs and install nuts finger tight, now install the rest of the studs and tighten them from the center out to 18 ft lb.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:03 PM   #6
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I concur with mrfix. I have done so many I'm getting a headache thinking about it. I also would weld a nut to the existing stud even if it broke flush with the head, just straight down the center with the Mig welder. The heat from the welder will also loosen the broken stud. If you choose to drill, just measure the depth of a hole and mark the bit with tape so you do not drill too deep. Ford now makes a stainless steel stud and nut.
Ford replacement Stainless steel Stud part number, W703902-S403
Ford replacement Stainless steel Nut part number, W701706-S2


  1. Torque the studs in the cylinder head to 71-115 lb-in (8-13 N-m).
  2. Torque nuts on studs to 204-239 lb-in (23-27 N-m).
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:54 PM   #7
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Cost and what to do

I was informed I have a bolt problem on my V10 manifold. A 1999 Minnie Winnie 31DL with 75000 miles. I was given an estimate of $3500 to fix it or he will inspect it as is. He said he would have to remove the engine to fix it.

Now I have to make a decision. I live in Pa and am planing a trip to Fla for the winter and then cross country to Ca. and north to Alaska and back home to Pa. towing a Civic. The Minnie is worth 10000 at best and I get nothing on a trade. Do I fix it, scrap it, or drive it as is?
I have just put on new tires all around, and fixed the cab over more or less. It could last a few years. I wanted to take it to Alaska to spare the ware and tear on what ever MH I get next.
So.....
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:21 PM   #8
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I have replaced many of these studs on v8 and v10 engines in many different vehicles and have never needed to remove the engine. The going rate for this repair is $1200 per side if the manifolds are reusable. The hardest of all was a ford excursion, there is no room to work but still doable. TV's are the easiest. If I were you I would get additional quotes.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:17 PM   #9
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Also been looking into it over the last couple of days as I had one broken when plugs where changed on 8.1L yesterday. This may be an option for you if you get a leak.

Home - Kral Auto Parts
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:31 PM   #10
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fbuckwalter has a Ford v10, not the GM 8.1

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Old 12-08-2016, 08:41 PM   #11
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Listen to Mrfix, wise advise. I also have done 100's, so much I bought a pricy jig to do the job faster. It's still a pain. Use the listed stainless studs as stated by jleamo as well
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieRv View Post
Also been looking into it over the last couple of days as I had one broken when plugs where changed on 8.1L yesterday. This may be an option for you if you get a leak.

Home - Kral Auto Parts
Aussie, are you going to use the Kral Kit?
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:27 AM   #13
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I paid just under $400 for one side of my 8.1, I think that price is ridiculous. Not sure how close you are to Bath, NY but there is someone there who might provide a much better price and who excels at removal.
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:57 PM   #14
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CJ,
Unfortunately not. I have the third bolt from the rear snapped and his kit will not accommodate that bolt. He is sending me some laser cut metal for free that he suggest to remove the bolt next to it and place it under to push down on the bolt that is missing.

If this doesn't work I will put Thorley or Banks headers on when I hear a leak.
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