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11-05-2017, 08:26 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fayatteville, AR
Posts: 28
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Water Heater Anode
good morning,
I wanted to remove the anode in my water heater for the winter. I got to the back of my Suburban brand water heater and found that the anode rod is not lined up with the hole to remove it. It is almost as if the inside of the water heater has turned some how. I could likely take a snips and make the hole a bit bigger to remove the anode.
Is this worth it, or should I just leave it?
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11-05-2017, 08:36 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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The rod should be on the face of the WH below the pressure relief valve.
You would check it every time you winterized your coach. If you see just a wire rod you need a new one.
SUBURBAN WATER HEATER ---- TECH INFORMATION
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11-05-2017, 08:39 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,591
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Interesting. I cannot see what make of RV. Possibly you can provide that info for others who may have the same unit.
That said, typically water heater anodes are accessed from outside, behind the cover where the anode, electric element, and gas line/burner is located. This is on most Suburban models. Possibly you have an different model.... It is a 1 1/16 inch socket on most of my previous units with a 6 or 10 "gallon" LP/electric water heater.
I always removed the anode to drain the water heater for the winter - after bypassing the unit.
Found this picture:
Brian
__________________
Towr: 2007 Country Coach Allure 470 - 37 Sunset Bay Cummins 400 ISL, Coach #31563
Toad: 2016 F150 King Ranch - 3.5L EcoBoost 4x4 Supercrew (curb weight 4,775 lbs)
Toad: SOLD 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee (yes, it has a Hemi) (curb weight 4,720 lbs)
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11-05-2017, 08:51 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fayatteville, AR
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGlenn
Interesting. I cannot see what make of RV. Possibly you can provide that info for others who may have the same unit.
That said, typically water heater anodes are accessed from outside, behind the cover where the anode, electric element, and gas line/burner is located. This is on most Suburban models. Possibly you have an different model.... It is a 1 1/16 inch socket on most of my previous units with a 6 or 10 "gallon" LP/electric water heater.
I always removed the anode to drain the water heater for the winter - after bypassing the unit.
Found this picture:
Brian
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Hi guys!
Thanks for the help. On my water heater what you have labeled as the anode is actually the drain petcock on mine. I have a 1991 Monaco Bus. In the owners manual for the water heater, it does verify that the anode is on the back of the unit, it is also labeled "anode" on the back side. If I snip some of the sheet metal I should be able to get to the anode and remove it.
How did the water heater get turned inside the housing like that? Maybe I shouldn't ask
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11-05-2017, 09:36 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,591
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Ok - did not know Suburban put anode rods in the back... Learn something new every day.
I do not see a problem cutting the tin shrouding around the anode hole. I would not think it is load bearing or anything like that.... .
As for the tank turning - it is simply a tank inside a insulated housing - I would think the other taps off the back would also have moved the same amount - water in and out?
Brian
__________________
Towr: 2007 Country Coach Allure 470 - 37 Sunset Bay Cummins 400 ISL, Coach #31563
Toad: 2016 F150 King Ranch - 3.5L EcoBoost 4x4 Supercrew (curb weight 4,775 lbs)
Toad: SOLD 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee (yes, it has a Hemi) (curb weight 4,720 lbs)
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11-05-2017, 10:15 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fayatteville, AR
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGlenn
Ok - did not know Suburban put anode rods in the back... Learn something new every day.
I do not see a problem cutting the tin shrouding around the anode hole. I would not think it is load bearing or anything like that.... .
As for the tank turning - it is simply a tank inside a insulated housing - I would think the other taps off the back would also have moved the same amount - water in and out?
Brian
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply, yeah it appears that the whole tank has turned inside the housing. Ill trim the housing and pull the anode. I will also try to post the model number so others will know to look in the back of their water heater for certain Suburban models.
Thanks Guys!
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11-05-2017, 10:32 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: B.C.
Posts: 4,638
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From what I was told the newer ones do not have an anode rod anymore. The fifth wheel i just bought used has a new tank in it and when I drained it I realized there is no rod in there . I asked a parts guy and he said they do not have them anymore.
__________________
Dennis & Marcie & Captain Hook The Jack Russell,aka PUP, 2006 Itasca 29R 2017 Equinox toad. RVM59
We came, we went, nothing broken, nothing bent!
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11-05-2017, 10:53 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickest1
From what I was told the newer ones do not have an anode rod anymore. The fifth wheel i just bought used has a new tank in it and when I drained it I realized there is no rod in there . I asked a parts guy and he said they do not have them anymore.
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You most likely have an Atwood heater that does not use an Anode. Suburban has always and still does use an Anode.
Your parts guy is not well informed.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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11-05-2017, 05:13 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,400
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BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
This will really help in all your future posts, so you won't have to type it in each time.
You do this by:
1) Going to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.
Consider signing up and becoming a IRV2 supporter. It’s a small way to give back to what we all reap here.
You may also want to watch these 2 video's. They may be helpful in your situation:
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11-05-2017, 06:45 PM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Untill he says what coach he has we are just chasing our tails, he has beach listed for his MH.
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