Community Forums

Nuts · 02-15-2014, 08:41 AM

Is the pop off valve on the motor heater the same as a home heater ? Looks the same, but don't know enough to replace for sure. Also there is a sealant around the base that looks like it was applied as a liquid, what is it ? Can't I use plumbers tape ?

Thanks
Bill

palehorse89 · 02-15-2014, 08:44 AM

Hi Bill, Teflon comes in a tape form or a liquid paste form, both will work just fine.

mel s · 02-15-2014, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nuts

Is the pop off valve on the motor heater the same as a home heater ? Looks the same, but don't know enough to replace for sure. Also there is a sealant around the base that looks like it was applied as a liquid, what is it ? Can't I use plumbers tape ?
Thanks
Bill

Nuts
a few years ago I replaced the T&P valve in my 10 gal Suburban WH with one from Home Depot.
Take the old one with you to insure that you get one to match. (they come in different lengths and thread sizes).
I used TFE pipe thread sealant, (which HD sells in small tubes).
Mel
'96 Safari

wa8yxm · 02-15-2014, 09:47 AM

Short answers to both questions: YES.

deandec · 02-15-2014, 10:29 AM

I believe if it appears it is leaking water from your water heater, you just need to relieve the pressure and refill the tank to establish a new air space.

That could avoid replacement. The event is discussed in my Atwood manual.

palehorse89 · 02-15-2014, 10:43 AM

waroland · 02-15-2014, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palehorse89

X2
I had this happen to me.

mel s · 02-15-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deandec

I believe if it appears it is leaking water from your water heater, you just need to relieve the pressure and refill the tank to establish a new air space.
That could avoid replacement. The event is discussed in my Atwood manual.

deandec
When my coach was 16 years old the original WH P&T valve would no longer stop weeping/dripping after re-establishing the air space, (aka: air expansion pocket).
When I removed the P&T valve I found that the "in tank portion" was heavily caked with deposits, (calcium?).
Since I already had it out I simply replaced it with a new one, (rather than try to clean/fix the old original).

Mel
'96 Safari, 10 gal Suburban WH

Thebaldeagle · 02-15-2014, 03:49 PM

Sometimes the observable problem, such as a leaking relief valve, isn't the problem, just the result.

I had a pressure relief valve leaking not long ago. Staying at an RV Park that has 45 lb regulated water pressure. Any in-line regulator would reduce the flow to where the shower was unusable so I had none in the line. Released the pressure and bled off some water allowing an air pocket. 2 days later, more leakage.

Changed the pressure relief valve. Next day, the new one was leaking. Took it back and exchanged it for another new one. Same thing. I was noticing that when I first turned on a faucet the pressure was higher then dropped as soon as the faucet was opened. Bought a Valterra A01-1117VP pressure regulator, installed it and actually adjusted the set screw to the maximum pressure that it would allow (65psi per the specs). I have never seen the pressure above 45. I have not had a relief valve leak since.

My theory is that during the night and off peak times the park regulator would allow a rise in pressure that as soon as a faucet is opened immediately drops to 45.

This just shows that even at low pressure a GOOD full flow adjustable pressure regulator is needed. Would have saved the cost of a relief valve as well as 2 trips to the RV Dealer 52 mikes away and a lot of headaches!

Sometimes the observable problem, ie. the leak, isn't the problem!