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Old 06-14-2016, 03:25 PM   #15
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When I bought my MH my valve was leaking during inspection at the dealers lot. The MH tech said when that happens just hit it with a hammer! Ya I tapped it a couple of times and it quit.

Later it started again so I replaced the valve and haven't had a problem since, thank the Lord.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:48 PM   #16
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General knowledge of water heater people is that you never open that valve after it's been in service for just a few years. Minerals build up on the inside of the valve and opening it disturbes the hard minerals of which some get stuck on the seal and or seat, then it will leak forever. Go get a new one.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:03 PM   #17
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General knowledge of water heater people is that you never open that valve after it's been in service for just a few years. Minerals build up on the inside of the valve and opening it disturbes the hard minerals of which some get stuck on the seal and or seat, then it will leak forever. Go get a new one.
Unlike a lot of people I never open that valve even when draining the tank to winterize. Instead I open all the faucets in the camper and let the air in that way.
I have even had relief valves seep in my home water heater if it were disturbed.
If I have a leaky valve I replace it.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:38 PM   #18
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The last tech that worked on my new WH that had a valve leak at the end of the heating cycle stated that he found the thermostat was not making good contact with the side of the tank causing the water to get too hot and cause the valve to open. He said he fixed it, and for a few trips it worked properly. Now it's leaking again. Since it has to go in for other issues, he can check it again.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:47 PM   #19
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And perhaps someone can explain why this is not a problem with home water heaters? I see a cold pipe going in, A hot pipe coming out, and a relief valve. Kind of the same thing I see on the Suburban.


The explanation in the Suburban manual just seems like they are telling us they have a design flaw and the user fix is to let the air back in. And in most cases, is not a big deal to do so we just do it and move on. I may be in that boat once I'm assured the thing is working as designed.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:21 PM   #20
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And perhaps someone can explain why this is not a problem with home water heaters? I see a cold pipe going in, A hot pipe coming out, and a relief valve. Kind of the same thing I see on the Suburban.


The explanation in the Suburban manual just seems like they are telling us they have a design flaw and the user fix is to let the air back in. And in most cases, is not a big deal to do so we just do it and move on. I may be in that boat once I'm assured the thing is working as designed.
They also fail in home use. I am not sure I buy the air cushion idea at all. That said it is worth a try if there is another 5 minute fix.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:24 PM   #21
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WOW....
Lot of hoo-wee going on about T&P Relief Valves on RV water heaters..........which are the SAME T&P Relief Valves used on residential water heaters. Only difference is smaller tank size.

Rv Water heaters Atwood/Suburban by design have an 'air pocket' at top of water heater tank.
Air can be compressed--water can NOT be compressed.
Water swells when heated....air pocket allows for the swelling of heated water.
W/O Air Pocket the swelling hot water causes the T&P Relief Valve to 'weep'

Continuous weeping causes mineral/scale build up on seat of T&P Valve which causes more weeping.

Re-establishing the air pocket CAN stop weeping IF valve doesn't have scale built up
Rotating the lever causes valve stem to rotate which can help valve seal against valve seat.
A good blow out under pressure thru T&P can help remove build up.....then let valve SNAP close by letting go of lever (do this when water is cold)

T&P Relief valves OPEN when TEMP/210*F and/or PRESS/125# starts to open--full open at 150#

Air Pocket
Turn off water supply
Open nearest faucet hot side to relieve pressure
Open T&P via Lever...let snap close when water stops running out
Close faucet
Open water supply






IF air pocket/exercising T&P etc does NOT stop weeping/water running from T&P

REPLACE IT.........1/2" NPT and 3/4" NPT thread size have been used
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:36 PM   #22
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I had a similar issue with the pressure relief valve leaking on my Bounder. Someone suggested checking the water temp. Using a oven thermometer I checked the water temp at the sink. Water temp was 170 degrees. I ordered an adjustable thermostat. When I went to install it I found the plastic ring the holds the original thermostat in place was broken. Installed the new thermostat, water temp 140 and pressure relief valve no longer spitting water.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:22 AM   #23
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It's crud buildup. I replaced mine because the pump would cycle on the half hour, it was dribbling.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:32 AM   #24
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They also fail in home use. I am not sure I buy the air cushion idea at all. That said it is worth a try if there is another 5 minute fix.

First thing at home or Rv check water pressure first it the most common cause of valve failure.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:44 AM   #25
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Just a quick update. I used to open the T&P valve when draining the water heater. I will stop doing that, and just open a hot water faucet. I feel like a water heater expert now. Bottom line is, I replaced the T&P valve and it is working now without leaking. My leak was NOT weeping, so I believe the T&P valve just failed from age or build up etc. Thanks for all your help.
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Old 06-18-2016, 03:59 PM   #26
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Opening the relief valve shouldn't cause future leaking. Periodically opening it just makes sure minerals haven't cemented it shut. When closing it, allow it to snap shut to dislodge mineral deposits. If your water pump is off and city water off, you can open the relief valve and then open your outside shower hot valve. Let water drain until you hear gurgling at the relief valve. Let it snap shut, also close shower hot valve. You've now restored the air pocket to allow heated water expansion.

A small expansion tank in the cold water line would make the air pocket in the WH less needed, but the manufacturers of most RVs don't want the expense of the tank and installation costs. In addition, the usual back flow (check) valve at the WH inlet would prevent water from expanding to the expansion tank.
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Old 06-18-2016, 04:54 PM   #27
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If I was a guessing man I think your pressure relief valve is not sealing right. I had that problem D my fix was to hit it with the plastic handle of a screw driver... Not hard but acpl little taps thinking that would be your fix
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:52 PM   #28
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Opening the relief valve shouldn't cause future leaking. Periodically opening it just makes sure minerals haven't cemented it shut. When closing it, allow it to snap shut to dislodge mineral deposits. If your water pump is off and city water off, you can open the relief valve and then open your outside shower hot valve. Let water drain until you hear gurgling at the relief valve. Let it snap shut, also close shower hot valve. You've now restored the air pocket to allow heated water expansion.

Correct.......
Exercising a valve does NOT wear it out or cause it to prematurely fail

A small expansion tank in the cold water line would make the air pocket in the WH less needed, but the manufacturers of most RVs don't want the expense of the tank and installation costs. In addition, the usual back flow (check) valve at the WH inlet would prevent water from expanding to the expansion tank.

An accumulator tank allows for more even pressure in system-----less pump cycling when using it.
As for the check valve in inlet........not many have inlet check valves, more common now is in outlet or none
Depends on RV MFG whether inlet/outlet or none------no standards
.........................
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