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Old 10-12-2013, 12:52 PM   #1
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Water holding tank cracked connections

Hiya!

Question: What is the usual course of action if you find something like this on a fresh water holding tank? These are the water drain to outside of the RV connection and the tank to water pump connection - both at the bottom of the tank and I suspect not winterizing and blowing out the lines has caused this with freezing over the last 7 years.

I have not tested the water pump or system yet as I was looking for mouse bites/leaks before we started flowing water in the rig, but I assume that this freezing damage may have effected the water pump as well.

So for this water tank, do I:

A. Leave as is and add some kind of sealant in that crack and around it to secure it? They are both in there very tight - no looseness on either connection.

B. Remove the gray part, fix or replace the plastic part (sealant and hose clamp around it to tighten and secure?) Is this possible?

C. Take it somewhere for someone to professionally change out the "white" plastic inlet?

D. Something else? / Other

I tried searching for a solution, but most results came up with cracked tanks, not cracked connectors.

Bonus Question: What are the electrical connections on the water tank for?

Photos:
All of the water tank photos are here:
http://rvrenovation.tumblr.com/post/63837600975/water-holding-tank-inspection

I'm posting just the cracked ones below, but all connection photos can be found on that URL.

1. Grey/White connection with hose to water pump. This connector is on the bottom of the tank and is cracked.


#6 Cracked:
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #2
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I had a crack around my water tank outlet. I removed the tank and took it to an RV repair shop where they replaced the outlet and plastic welded it. It has been going for four years now with no problems.
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSiren View Post

I'm posting just the cracked ones below, but all connection photos can be found on that URL.

1. Grey/White connection with hose to water pump. This connector is on the bottom of the tank and is cracked.


#6 Cracked:
OneSiren
Those cracks appear to be caused by the over-tighting of the fittings screwed into the fittings on the tank.

The male threads of the gray fittings pictured, are tapered.
The more they are tightened the more outward pressures is exerted into he female tank fitting causing it to split, (like driving a wedge into it).

IMO, the correct answer is C. (Take it somewhere for someone to professionally change out the "white" plastic inlets) ... AND do not over-tighten the fittings you screw into them.

Bonus Answer: The electrical connections on the water tank go to the monitor panel.

Mel
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Old 10-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #4
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Thank you both for the great info. Water tank is loaded in the back of the SUV and I'm heading to the shop in just a few minutes to drop if off and get some more supplies for the roof.

I did an "AH HA!" out loud when I read the electrical connections were for the the monitoring system! Thanks for the laugh. =) I'm having a lot of fun figuring this out, but realizing how much I have yet to learn. Feeling grateful today that I have a relatively simple rig. ha!

Thanks again for your time!

Lorelei
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:24 AM   #5
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Mel is correct, it appears the cracked fittings are from being over tightened. If you reinstall the fittings don't over tighten the fittings just hand tight no wrench. Use a thread sealer that is compatible with plastic. You could use teflon tape but there are better thread sealer to use. Might be best to have the shop doing the repair to reinstall the fittings. Good job getting the tank out. Don't be afraid to ask any question you may have about your MH.

Chuck
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:09 AM   #6
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Take the fitting out put a hose clamp on it put fitting back in.
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:49 PM   #7
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The RV place doesn't handle this kind of repair and he's trying to sell me a new tank. I think I'm going with hose clamp, Teflon tape and screw them in again, but not that tight. This is how it was from the original install (as indicated by the writing and dates on the side of the tank.

Thanks again everyone for your time and responses. Very helpful information!

=)
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:46 PM   #8
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If no luck try this................

Clean the area well. Purchase a micro torch at your local hardware or big box home store. Also get a hot glue gun.

Plug the glue gun in, wait till it is good and hot so the glue is flowing nicely. Heat the cracked area with the micro torch, till it starts to melt, then quickly fill with the hot glue material. The 2 melted plastics will "weld" together.

Note, gravity works, place the tank on whatever angle, so the glue/plastic won't run down and away from the repaired area.

It takes a long time to cool. Wait till the plastic is hard again.

L.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSiren View Post
The RV place doesn't handle this kind of repair and he's trying to sell me a new tank. I think I'm going with hose clamp, Teflon tape and screw them in again, but not that tight. This is how it was from the original install (as indicated by the writing and dates on the side of the tank.

Thanks again everyone for your time and responses. Very helpful information!
Good plan!

The last time I saw a plumber working with threaded plastic pipes/fittings
he first wrapped the female pipe threads with Teflon tape AND he applied pipe dope before threading the fitting in....(when I asked why he told me that Teflon tape AND pipe dope did the best job.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:16 PM   #10
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The original fittings were spin welded into the tank in all likelihood. They can be replaced with bulkhead fittings or new fittings can be plastic welded on. If it were me and I would do the bulkhead fittings Amazon.com: Compression Bulkhead Fittings - Compression Fittings: Industrial & Scientific
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #11
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Chuck, thanks for the confirmation on Mel's info and even more thanks for the encouragement on what I've done so far and asking questions. All of you have been a GIFT to this amazing time in my life. =)

Shadowcatche
, great suggestion as I'd love to upgrade fittings where I can so I don't have to wake up to a flood inside the rig - but right now they won't budge!! =)

Lloyd, great idea.. and I get to buy a torch.....sooo cool!

Going with the theory if it isn't leaking don't break the seal if you don't have to...I think that I'll:

- Get a micro torch (I have a shopping list now for Home Depot...) and I have several glue guns and glue sticks
- Add a hose clamp but keep it wide open.
- As Lloyd has suggested heat the connection, add hot glue, let set for a few minutes
- Lightly secure (firm hold but not adding more pressure/cracking grey elbow connector) hose clamp as added support to prevent further crack progression

Then it can set for at least a few weeks while we do the repairs before I'll hook it back up again.

Thanks again everyone for investing your time into my project - I REALLY appreciate it. =)

Lorelei
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:37 PM   #12
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I thought I'd follow up with pictures post repair. I used a small heat torch, glue gun and hose clamps. I also noticed a small crack starting on the top gasket so I think you all were right that it was from initial over tightening.

Finished result:


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Old 11-07-2013, 01:18 AM   #13
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OneSiren, I would have done the same thing you did. I've done it in the past with success. Call it jerry rigging or whatever. Been doing stuff like that all my life. Sometimes I fail, but learn from my mistakes. Hope it holds for you. If it doesn't, a couple companies make plastic epoxy. I have used it in the past with success.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd in S.C. View Post
It takes a long time to cool. Wait till the plastic is hard again.
L.
Ya ever get it on your hand or finger? Yeah, it takes a long time to cool. It only takes once.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSiren View Post
I thought I'd follow up with pictures post repair. I used a small heat torch, glue gun and hose clamps. I also noticed a small crack starting on the top gasket so I think you all were right that it was from initial over tightening.
OneSiren

Nice job.
Thanks for the update.
(Up dates are not always posted but I always appreciate hearing the outcome, answer or solution).
Thanks
Mel
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