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10-12-2019, 03:57 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: George West Texas
Posts: 60
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Water leak in exterior fiberglass wall
Low thanks for any advice in advance. So the other day I'm walking around my RV it's a 2002 Holiday Rambler vacationer. I noticed a slight bulge in the wall under and to the left of the emergency exit window of my RV. It's not a huge bulge not even a 6in circumference but I was able to see it. It seems that the AC unit on the roof no matter how I level it wants to leak water on that side of the RV right over that window. So I'm guessing that the seal has a small entry point for the water to get in. There doesn't appear to be any water on the inside part of the wall so I'm guessing that it's running between the foam weather proofing in the fiberglass wall. If I push on the bubble I can actually hear water sloshing around so I'm pretty sure that I have a delamination problem.
My question is does anybody have any suggestions of a way of getting the water out without just drilling a hole in the side of my RV?
Once again thanks for any advice
__________________
2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36dbd
Workhorse w22 8.1 ltr
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10-12-2019, 05:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,518
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Can you get to the void from the inside? Remove a cabinet, drill a hole, sponge out the draining water?
Make sure the water is dried before freezing conditions.
Or from the bottom? Drill a hole up from the baggage compartment?
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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10-16-2019, 02:48 PM
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#3
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Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 80
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try removing the window
If you remove the window, you will be able to see the exterior and interior wall composition. If you keep it indoors, take the window out and let air get into the wall cavity to dry. I have a 01 Endeavor and have done some extensive wall repair, with injection of fiberglass resin into the wall from the cavity where the window(s) were, then reinstalled the windows and caulked. Problem solved! Visually, shes does not look perfect, but its paid off, and runs like a top and no more leaks! Works for me.
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10-22-2019, 11:20 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: George West Texas
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceking69
If you remove the window, you will be able to see the exterior and interior wall composition. If you keep it indoors, take the window out and let air get into the wall cavity to dry. I have a 01 Endeavor and have done some extensive wall repair, with injection of fiberglass resin into the wall from the cavity where the window(s) were, then reinstalled the windows and caulked. Problem solved! Visually, shes does not look perfect, but its paid off, and runs like a top and no more leaks! Works for me.
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Unfortunately I live in my RV full time being in Southeast Texas during the winter time it rains sometimes a lot I got up on the roof I actually believe the water was getting in on top of the window. The previous owner recaulk it, but looks like he used his finger and spread it out extremely thin. I tried to take the molding between the basement doors and the fiberglass side panel off to let the water drain out there. This would have been the perfect way to do it unfortunately I found that that's what holds the basement doors on LOL.
So I will probably do as you said go ahead and remove the window let it dry out send you some fiberglass resin squish it in there. it's not a large area but it is noticeable. Thanks for your information
__________________
2002 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36dbd
Workhorse w22 8.1 ltr
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10-23-2019, 06:44 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,518
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There shouldn't be a need to put fiberglass in the window opening. You just need to reseal the window the way it's supposed to be. Putting fiberglass in there will make a mess...
using a finger to finish off silicone is a very normal procedure.
It doesn't make any difference on how thin it is, just that it's not leaking and shedding the water away. Gobs of silicone is not the answer. It should be smooth, thin and fill the gap completely between the window flange and the filon. A finger tip makes a good fillet that looks good, pushes the silicone further in the gap for completeness and allows for water to shed off.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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10-23-2019, 07:17 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 360
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Remove the window. Slightly wedge open the delaminated area. Tape a shop vacuum to the area and turn it on and let it run.(drying it out). Then using penetration epoxy , pour a little in the gap and either wedge a flat piece of plywood or clamp until dry. This will save the wood from rot and reattach the skin. If you over due it on the epoxy it may run out the bottom of the wall (gravity) so make sure you know your surroundings.
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10-26-2019, 08:07 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 367
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I'm following this.
I havea similar situation on my 2003 National Tradewinds.
Hoping for a less expensive fix.
Wm Mayberry
2003 National Tradewinds 375LE
2011 Honda CRV
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