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Old 07-31-2014, 04:27 PM   #43
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O.K., I went back to your 1st picture and enlarged it to see. Your valves were just on/off valves, 5 of them. The middle and two lower ones should be set to off. You only manipulate the two upper ones for fill (the tank) and use (city water. If you replaced or repaired those valves and put them back into the illustrated control panel, you should be fine.



The red letters on the panel photo match to the function of the letters on the diagram provided by Hooligan except I labeled the center valve 'W' for winterize and the diagram calls it 'F'.

Your post #40 with diagram mentions, "What I did was cut the PEX and on/off valved both the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet/shower head." Sounds like you added shut off valves to the outside shower. They should have no impact on the pump function, on or off. The two lower valves on the control panel serve the same function, so you didn't have to add those valves.

"Then I cut the PEX and on/off valved the hot/cold vent lines." I'm not sure what you mean by 'vent lines.' The only vent I can think of is a vent that allows air in and out of the water tank, and it's for air, not water, doesn't need a valve. There's also an overflow line for the water tank, but I don't know if your talking about that.

"Then I cut the main water supply line to the tank, installed a ball valve and a female hose connection." Is this in addition to the valve I've marked "A" on your panel and put an 'X' on the line between tank and pump? What is the female hose connection for? It would serve as a water tank fill, but your panel already indicates you've got one. A hose connected there,(red arrow) with valve 'E' open would cause water to squirt out the original city water connection, unless there's a check valve in the line or at the city water fill connector. As a city water hook up, it would have to force water through the pump. (The red X and arrow would do the same if installed after the panel valve 'A.' (Valve 'A' does the same as your installed ball valve.)

"I think somehow that cold and hot water supply played a part in this. They both went to a valve(s) on the manifold before going to the faucet." The outside shower is doing double duty, a 'dog wash' in summer, (the valves are left in the on position, faucet valves off except when using) and your low point drain when draining the water tank and plumbing. By hanging the shower head down to the ground and opening both H/C faucets, it allows water to drain from the tank and plumbing. (If a faucet is opened inside RV to allow air in the lines.)

In putting the new valves in, I wonder if you put the lines back on the panel in the right orientation. The diagram indicates with little arrow on either side of the knob that the lines should be all running horizontally. That way, when the knob is horizontal, it's on, when it's vertical, it's off. In addition, the center valve, (W) for winterizing, should have a tube dangling from it to insert in a gallon of antifreeze for winterizing. Is it still hanging behind the panel?
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:15 PM   #44
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Bflinn181. I am starting to believe from the way the poster is talking that he cut everything out and threw it away instead of just replacing the valves. I think he is trying to re engineer his system. In the drawing that I saw I did not see anything that goes to the pump. I believe he thinks that the pump is going to get water from the city water system or at least from the same line where it goes to the tank. Hopefully he will confirm or deny that when he reads this post. Thankfully he has been very good about responding to our posts.

I did not see anything on his post that showed a line from the water tank to the pump. If he can redo his drawing to show where that line is ?
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:48 PM   #45
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The last I read, he could not find the pump.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:25 AM   #46
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Gemini is right I cut out the old system and threw it away. Iím trying to just get the water to flow.
Here is a thought: I put that ball valve with the hose connect (see the picture in post #5) on the main fill line. After I fill the tank and close that ball valve the system is not vented. Does the system have to have an air vet on the fill line for the water to circulate? If so I could install a check valve upstream on that line and just leave the ball valve open.
Thoughts?
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:37 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
O.K., I went back to your 1st picture and enlarged it to see. Your valves were just on/off valves, 5 of them. The middle and two lower ones should be set to off. You only manipulate the two upper ones for fill (the tank) and use (city water. If you replaced or repaired those valves and put them back into the illustrated control panel, you should be fine.



The red letters on the panel photo match to the function of the letters on the diagram provided by Hooligan except I labeled the center valve 'W' for winterize and the diagram calls it 'F'.

Your post #40 with diagram mentions, "What I did was cut the PEX and on/off valved both the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet/shower head." Sounds like you added shut off valves to the outside shower. They should have no impact on the pump function, on or off. The two lower valves on the control panel serve the same function, so you didn't have to add those valves.

"Then I cut the PEX and on/off valved the hot/cold vent lines." I'm not sure what you mean by 'vent lines.' The only vent I can think of is a vent that allows air in and out of the water tank, and it's for air, not water, doesn't need a valve. There's also an overflow line for the water tank, but I don't know if your talking about that.

"Then I cut the main water supply line to the tank, installed a ball valve and a female hose connection." Is this in addition to the valve I've marked "A" on your panel and put an 'X' on the line between tank and pump? What is the female hose connection for? It would serve as a water tank fill, but your panel already indicates you've got one. A hose connected there,(red arrow) with valve 'E' open would cause water to squirt out the original city water connection, unless there's a check valve in the line or at the city water fill connector. As a city water hook up, it would have to force water through the pump. (The red X and arrow would do the same if installed after the panel valve 'A.' (Valve 'A' does the same as your installed ball valve.)

"I think somehow that cold and hot water supply played a part in this. They both went to a valve(s) on the manifold before going to the faucet." The outside shower is doing double duty, a 'dog wash' in summer, (the valves are left in the on position, faucet valves off except when using) and your low point drain when draining the water tank and plumbing. By hanging the shower head down to the ground and opening both H/C faucets, it allows water to drain from the tank and plumbing. (If a faucet is opened inside RV to allow air in the lines.)

In putting the new valves in, I wonder if you put the lines back on the panel in the right orientation. The diagram indicates with little arrow on either side of the knob that the lines should be all running horizontally. That way, when the knob is horizontal, it's on, when it's vertical, it's off. In addition, the center valve, (W) for winterizing, should have a tube dangling from it to insert in a gallon of antifreeze for winterizing. Is it still hanging behind the panel?
I canít tell you how much I appreciate the input from everyone.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:03 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
O.K., I went back to your 1st picture and enlarged it to see. Your valves were just on/off valves, 5 of them. The middle and two lower ones should be set to off. You only manipulate the two upper ones for fill (the tank) and use (city water. If you replaced or repaired those valves and put them back into the illustrated control panel, you should be fine.



The red letters on the panel photo match to the function of the letters on the diagram provided by Hooligan except I labeled the center valve 'W' for winterize and the diagram calls it 'F'.

Your post #40 with diagram mentions, "What I did was cut the PEX and on/off valved both the hot and cold supply lines to the faucet/shower head." Sounds like you added shut off valves to the outside shower. They should have no impact on the pump function, on or off. The two lower valves on the control panel serve the same function, so you didn't have to add those valves.

"Then I cut the PEX and on/off valved the hot/cold vent lines." I'm not sure what you mean by 'vent lines.' The only vent I can think of is a vent that allows air in and out of the water tank, and it's for air, not water, doesn't need a valve. There's also an overflow line for the water tank, but I don't know if your talking about that.

"Then I cut the main water supply line to the tank, installed a ball valve and a female hose connection." Is this in addition to the valve I've marked "A" on your panel and put an 'X' on the line between tank and pump? What is the female hose connection for? It would serve as a water tank fill, but your panel already indicates you've got one. A hose connected there,(red arrow) with valve 'E' open would cause water to squirt out the original city water connection, unless there's a check valve in the line or at the city water fill connector. As a city water hook up, it would have to force water through the pump. (The red X and arrow would do the same if installed after the panel valve 'A.' (Valve 'A' does the same as your installed ball valve.)

"I think somehow that cold and hot water supply played a part in this. They both went to a valve(s) on the manifold before going to the faucet." The outside shower is doing double duty, a 'dog wash' in summer, (the valves are left in the on position, faucet valves off except when using) and your low point drain when draining the water tank and plumbing. By hanging the shower head down to the ground and opening both H/C faucets, it allows water to drain from the tank and plumbing. (If a faucet is opened inside RV to allow air in the lines.)

In putting the new valves in, I wonder if you put the lines back on the panel in the right orientation. The diagram indicates with little arrow on either side of the knob that the lines should be all running horizontally. That way, when the knob is horizontal, it's on, when it's vertical, it's off. In addition, the center valve, (W) for winterizing, should have a tube dangling from it to insert in a gallon of antifreeze for winterizing. Is it still hanging behind the panel?
"Then I cut the PEX and on/off valved the hot/cold vent lines." I'm not sure what you mean by 'vent lines.' The only vent I can think of is a vent that allows air in and out of the water tank, and it's for air, not water, doesn't need a valve. There's also an overflow line for the water tank, but I don't know if your talking about that. I should have said hot/cold drain lines.
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:05 AM   #49
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Gemini is right I cut out the old system and threw it away. Iím trying to just get the water to flow.
Here is a thought: I put that ball valve with the hose connect (see the picture in post #5) on the main fill line. After I fill the tank and close that ball valve the system is not vented. Does the system have to have an air vet on the fill line for the water to circulate? If so I could install a check valve upstream on that line and just leave the ball valve open.
Thoughts?
Your water tank should have a vent line to allow air in the tank as it fills and gets pumped for use. Since you can fill the tank, you have a vent. (It also has an overflow hose to prevent overfilling the tank)

I really can't recommend you install more hardware to the plumbing. You need to either put it back the way it was, or design new plumbing that does all the functions of the original one.
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:33 AM   #50
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So if I understand your drawing, when I fill my tank it fills through the city connection and then when itís full I bypass the city and open the tank valve?

I just canít grasp that the tank is full but it wonít pump. I can hear the pump gurgling. And why is there only one waterline going to the tankÖ.shouldnít there be two of them? One city and one tank?

Iím not giving up yet but any idea where I could buy a new/old valve manifold? Iíd like to get some pricing. Thanks
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:01 PM   #51
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Your system isn't exactly like Hooligan's diagram. Certainly not like the one I provided in post #30.

Your RV only has a female hose bib on the outside for water. When valves are set to USE, the hose pressurizes the whole system, except water tank because (A) is closed. When valves are set to FILL, the hose pushes water into the water tank. When valves are returned to USE setting, the water can drain back out of the tank to the pump. The pump then pressurizes the system.

On your manifold diagram, Hose is hooked to the city fill. If valve (E) is closed and (A) is open, (USE diagram on your panel) water is pressurized in the whole system except water tank . If (E) is open and (A) is closed, (FILL on your diagram) water fills the tank. After tank is full, Remove hose, return valve (E) to closed and (A) to open. (USE diagram) This allows water to be pumped to RV and prevents it getting pumped out the city connection.



Your issue is that somehow water doesn't drain from tank down to pump.

I think you have the 5 on/off valves to replace what you started with. You need to mount valves in the panel then plumb each one the way it was. Give me a little time and I'll try to draw it up if you need it. If you could find the manifold panel with valves, they'd still not be connected to your RV, so you'd be still stuck.

Start by trying to identify each water line in the compartment. Put a tape label on it when your sure.
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:59 PM   #52
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Just for info: The panel is called the Coachmen Water Works Utility panel, it is an advertizing point in many of their brochures and a search under that subject indicates much confusion. And so far no diagrams.
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:29 PM   #53
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Your system isn't exactly like Hooligan's diagram. Certainly not like the one I provided in post #30.

Your RV only has a female hose bib on the outside for water. When valves are set to USE, the hose pressurizes the whole system, except water tank because (A) is closed. When valves are set to FILL, the hose pushes water into the water tank. When valves are returned to USE setting, the water can drain back out of the tank to the pump. The pump then pressurizes the system.

On your manifold diagram, Hose is hooked to the city fill. If valve (E) is closed and (A) is open, (USE diagram on your panel) water is pressurized in the whole system except water tank . If (E) is open and (A) is closed, (FILL on your diagram) water fills the tank. After tank is full, Remove hose, return valve (E) to closed and (A) to open. (USE diagram) This allows water to be pumped to RV and prevents it getting pumped out the city connection.



Your issue is that somehow water doesn't drain from tank down to pump.

I think you have the 5 on/off valves to replace what you started with. You need to mount valves in the panel then plumb each one the way it was. Give me a little time and I'll try to draw it up if you need it. If you could find the manifold panel with valves, they'd still not be connected to your RV, so you'd be still stuck.

Start by trying to identify each water line in the compartment. Put a tape label on it when your sure.
Your issue is that somehow water doesn't drain from tank down to pump. It would be nice to find out why...the problem would be solved.

I think you have the 5 on/off valves to replace what you started with. That is correct You need to mount valves in the panel then plumb each one the way it was. Give me a little time and I'll try to draw it up if you need it. If you could find the manifold panel with valves, they'd still not be connected to your RV, so you'd be still stuck. Sounds good

Start by trying to identify each water line in the compartment. Put a tape label on it when your sure. I know the lines are hot/cold water supply, hot and cold water drian and the main suppy line.
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:31 PM   #54
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Just for info: The panel is called the Coachmen Water Works Utility panel, it is an advertizing point in many of their brochures and a search under that subject indicates much confusion. And so far no diagrams.
I have a guy from Mid State RV trying to locate one. Hoping for the best...
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:49 PM   #55
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Beeper,

We can probably walk you through designing a new control system. It is not rocket science. But you are going to have to identify some piping first. I had advised you to take every cold water line you have loose. Have someone inside turn on the pump and check for water out while you stick each hose into the garden hose from your house. When you find out which one goes to your pump let us know and we can start helping you from there. You are not going to be able to replace the original panel or make a new system until you know where the input hose to the pump is..
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Old 08-01-2014, 04:52 PM   #56
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Beeper,

We can probably walk you through designing a new control system. It is not rocket science. But you are going to have to identify some piping first. I had advised you to take every cold water line you have loose. Have someone inside turn on the pump and check for water out while you stick each hose into the garden hose from your house. When you find out which one goes to your pump let us know and we can start helping you from there. You are not going to be able to replace the original panel or make a new system until you know where the input hose to the pump is..
Hi Gemini. We are loading up and leaving tomorrow until next week Thursday. I'll try and do some investigating at the campground. We will not have internet so I won’t be able to respond. I only have one cold water line and one hot water line that I cut in that bay. Neither of them has water coming out because the pump won’t pump water through the system.
I agree this is not rocket science and I still say I’m/we are just missing something. But I would like to create some of the valve-system (Water Works) so we do have water.
Thanks
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