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Old 08-15-2014, 12:04 PM   #85
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Great news!

Are you going to put any face plate back in place? What are you doing to document the current piping configuration for future use in repair to trouble shooting that may come up?


Ted
Thanks Ted

I'm going to buy valve tags at Menards and tag/number all the valves and document how the system works. I will also clean up the bay and then spray it with bed liner. There will not be a face plate

We started a binder with all our upgrades.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:16 PM   #86
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Cool. I have followed this thread, with the thought that you were getting closer all along.

It is nice when a plan comes together. At least it looks far less cluttered than the original design, and possibly far more straight forward in being able to see what ogres where. At least that is what it looks like to me. It probably gives you more room in the bay.

I am just wondering if you may want to provide some type of bracing to the bibs, so that your pipes don't have a lot of pressure on them when connected to a hose, etc. Also, in the event someone else needs to hook up things, some type of labeling as to hooking up things may be advised.


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Old 08-15-2014, 12:54 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by tedgard01 View Post
Cool. I have followed this thread, with the thought that you were getting closer all along.

It is nice when a plan comes together. At least it looks far less cluttered than the original design, and possibly far more straight forward in being able to see what ogres where. At least that is what it looks like to me. It probably gives you more room in the bay.

I am just wondering if you may want to provide some type of bracing to the bibs, so that your pipes don't have a lot of pressure on them when connected to a hose, etc. Also, in the event someone else needs to hook up things, some type of labeling as to hooking up things may be advised.


Ted
You are right it is straight forward now. I will be doing some bracing for the bibs in the near future. I have them tight with plastic wire ties for the time being. I’m going to let it for a while and make sure there are no leaks or surprise. Once done I’ll laminate a “how to” sheet and mount it in the bay.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:01 PM   #88
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As it gets fairly cold in your neck of the woods, you may wand to consider some way to insulate and/or heat wrap the pipes as well if that bay is not already heated.


Ted
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:15 PM   #89
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I'm glad you got it working to your satisfaction. All this because one valve was leaking! I rather liked the original configuration, from one panel of 5 clearly marked valves you had all the functions of the water system by following illustrated valve settings.

By the way, a spray bottle of bleach water loses it's effectiveness as a germ killer in short order. A solution of 1/2 teaspoon per gallon is adequate for disinfection, but it also is suggested it be tossed out at the end of the day.

I hope that if you tackle your electric service as a project, you don't start by cutting out the breaker panel and starting new!
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:10 PM   #90
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I am curious what you are going to do about winterizing. Do you have a means of bypassing your hot water heater when you winterize or are you just going to buy 6 + gallons of antifreeze.

When you use city water is your pump check valve still in place or does the water go from the city supply back through the pump to the tank ?

I also would recommend something to hold your fill hoses in place. If someone trips over a water hose you can be breaking all of your piping and have a mess when you are out somewhere and not able to take the time to fix it.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:13 PM   #91
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The pump on my 2000 Santara is located below the closet in the bedroom over the general area the water manifold, remove the bottom panal next to the floor in the bedroom.
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