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Old 02-24-2014, 11:24 AM   #1
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Water Line and Water Heater help....

I have a 1993 Cobra Cordoba. She's old but she gets the job done. I've remodeled 80%+ of the interior to get rid of that ugly late 80s blue everything they put in this thing!

I had some water line issues because I wasn't winterized one year because I was still using it. In doing so I've had to replace some stuff along the lines. Now i'm to the water heater. The heater is still good but I am in need of the bypass valves that can shut the water off to the heater but still allow it to flow past it.... I can't find these things anywhere! any links would be greatly appreciated!


Also, I would like to take the anode rod out because i'm sure after 20yrs its due for replacement. I'm scared of breaking the tank or messing it up, any and all suggestions for getting it out without replacing the hot water heater would be greatly appreciated!

As I work though it to get it ready for the little bit of summer use I'm sure Ill have more questions that come along but for now that is it.

Thanks again in advance everyone!
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:31 AM   #2
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Check out E Bay under rv parts, they also sell a socket for the anode rod also then just move it both ways till you get it out.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:31 AM   #3
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Howdy

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...r+bypass+valve
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:16 PM   #4
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ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!!

google wasn't being very nice to me today i guess!!!!


Is there a "special socket" for that or can i just use any socket??
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:57 PM   #5
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nevermind.... found a video online with a regular socket... just need to work at it a bit more.

and i was just outbid on ebay for my valves and line so off to buy one off amazon that is the same thing for cheaper lol
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:20 PM   #6
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Hi okcableguy,
Consider using some penetrating lubricant that one sprays on and lets set over night.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:56 PM   #7
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Hi okcableguy,
Consider using some penetrating lubricant that one sprays on and lets set over night.
Will do... need to get it above 12* outside first
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:36 PM   #8
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Hope you did get a RV Water Heater Bypass kit and not just the valve
rv water heater bypass kit | eBay

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Old 02-24-2014, 07:07 PM   #9
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In addition to the penetrating goo, some times with these aluminum fittings, it helps to tighten and then try to loosen the fitting. If that doesn't' work, you might 'tap' the fitting with a 'light' hammer to help break loose the crud. Do not do this with a mini sledge or with a heavy blow...don't want to break anything.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:33 PM   #10
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:54 PM   #11
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Easy to make your own bypass it consists of two half inch t's and three shutoff valves cut both hot and cold lines to heater connect t's in both lines run a line between the two t's with one shutoff in that line attach a shutoff to each of the end of the t's and reconnect to heater. With hot and cold lines closed and center valve open you have bypassed your heater.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:37 AM   #12
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Easy to make your own bypass it consists of two half inch t's and three shutoff valves cut both hot and cold lines to heater connect t's in both lines run a line between the two t's with one shutoff in that line attach a shutoff to each of the end of the t's and reconnect to heater. With hot and cold lines closed and center valve open you have bypassed your heater.


That's what I was going to suggest, just make your own.

Cableguy, am I reading you correctly? are you in OKC? If you are, I have a pipe tap to chase the threads of the anode rod you're welcome to use if you want too.
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