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Old 08-14-2016, 05:30 PM   #15
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Trying to think this through logically. The fact that it pulses means to me that it is accomplishing the pressure shutting off and then being triggered again to pump more water.

Opening another tap reduces the cycling.

Is there a flow restrictor in your shower? Can you remove it? (you will use more water)!

How difficult would it be to add an accumulator?
I'll have to check on the restrictor in the shower. Good tip!! I don't have an accumulator, and I don't believe it'll be too hard to put in. Some research into that is in the works. This may do the trick. Another member mentioned a leak on the inlet side and maybe sucking air in the system. I see air in the inlet screen cover, so I'm investigating that, too. Thanks!! This wouldn't be such a problem if it wasn't such a random pulsation. But it's so quick and then slow...it worries me only because during fast frequency, it sounds like the pump is going to pop right out of the compartment.
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:11 PM   #16
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Bones,


No I don't have an accumulator, but I don't have a pulsing problem either. I would try the suggestion about looking for a flow restrictor in the shower head. It might be in the hose if you have that type. Next, I would check the air leaking into the system before the pump.
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:58 PM   #17
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You have a small accumulator chamber in the top of the water heater tank that may need to be replenished. Just empty out your garden hose and connect the coach up to city water, then turn on a hot water faucet. All the air from the hose will go into the tank to fill the chamber and the excess air will come out the faucet. I do this every time I hook up to city water.
If you want a simple large accumulator tank, use a screened washer to hold the back flow valve open, connect an empty garden hose to the water inlet, cap the other end and it will do exactly what a hard plumed accumulator tank will do, only no cost.
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:16 AM   #18
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Assuming there are no leaks, the solution to a pulsating and noisy pump is a pressure/accumulator tank. $75 to $100 bucks and a couple hours will result in a smooth running quite pump. With a tank the pump will run only when the pressure drops to the trigger point, then the pump will run until the tank is recharged. This is the exactly the same setup found in residential applications that use well water. Here is a link to a picture of my setup: https://1drv.ms/i/s!ArBcunudL8Rp53Yql10ygOswJ6oX
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:24 AM   #19
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Is your pump a by-pass type pump that doesn't need an accumulator tank? If so and it pulses, then the pumping pressure is set below the by-pass pressure and the by-pass feature won't work. An Allen wrench in the set screw to increase the pressure will fix it.
My Surflow did the same thing. It was to be a 55 lb. pump but was only pumping 45 lb and wouldn't bypass. Customer service said to crank it up to 55 and all was fine.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:44 AM   #20
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If I were going to the effort of installing an accumulator I would consider changing the pump for a variable speed. It will be quieter and probably be able to deliver more water. We changed our in the 5er to a variable and were able to run a couple taps where the previous pump wouldn't.
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:17 PM   #21
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How about this - just recently I've had this issue....

When I now turn on my water pump, I have water gushing out of the city water fill.... Now sure what's causing that... Plus - after being hooked up to city water, when I disconnect my city water hose water flows out of city water connection.... Is there a baffle inside the city water connection that's failed???
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:42 PM   #22
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ernest917, the first thing the water hits in your coach is a "backflow valve" on the backside of the hose connector, and yours is stuck open. Polk around in there to see if it will close and hold the water, if not, you'll need another one, or keep a hose connected.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:10 PM   #23
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The majority of RV pumps are diaphragm type pumps, which are what's termed as positive displacement pumps. Basically, it means they will pump pressures very high and will stop building pressure only when shut off or if flow is increased. If you barely crack a faucet you will hear the pump cycle, because the flow is not high enough to relieve the pressure the pump puts up and it shuts off when it reaches its shut off pressure. Then as the flow lowers the pressure, it comes back on and so on. If you open the faucet wide open the pump likely may not be able to raise the pressure fast enough to get to the shut off pressure. Environmental activists have flexed their muscles and have gotten shower head manufacturers to come up with heads that save water by limiting flow, but you do not notice - unless you are using a diaphragm pump, which if the shower head is sized just right the pump will cycle so fast it will literally beat itself to death. The solution is to increase the flow (change shower head to a higher volume one) or as some have said add an accumulator or a pressure tank, as we who used well water used to call it. These tanks work because they have a bladder inside them that is filled with air and they maintain the pressure in the piping longer even though a faucet is open. Opening another faucet will work also. A variable speed rotary pump would be an even better, although expensive, solution, as well.

Hopes this helps.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:52 PM   #24
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Gordon, a variable speed pump is well suited for accumulator tanks. With a Shurflo pump and an accumulator tank, we too are able to open two faucets at the same time. I expect to get longer life out of the current pump due the much less frequent cycling. The biggest difference in noise was the elimination of the hammer effect the pump creates when coming up to pressure. The tank bladder provides a cushion that results in a much quieter operation and even pressure.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:53 PM   #25
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Jerry explains it much better than I did. Thanks
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:00 AM   #26
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Gordon, a variable speed pump is well suited for accumulator tanks. With a Shurflo pump and an accumulator tank, we too are able to open two faucets at the same time. I expect to get longer life out of the current pump due the much less frequent cycling. The biggest difference in noise was the elimination of the hammer effect the pump creates when coming up to pressure. The tank bladder provides a cushion that results in a much quieter operation and even pressure.
We changed to a ShurFlow variable speed. Can not tell you what model as we have since sold the 5er. I did not install a tank because the installation instructions specifically stated that the pump was not to be used with an accumulator. May be different for different pumps.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:10 AM   #27
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That is interesting. Have no idea as to why ShurFlow would not recommend a tank.
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:20 AM   #28
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Bones.....

Pump is reaching shutoff pressure set point due to low flow demand then pressure drops to start set point so pump ends up cycling.

Faucet aerators have restricters .....remove them
Shower has restricter either in handle of shower head or in hose. Some cab ve removed others enlarged by using a 1/4" drill bit

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