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Old 05-12-2012, 08:42 AM   #29
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We'd like to do the job right, and hopefully, bring the paint/decals as much back to life as possible. What is the best product to use for this job? I've seen both Mother's and Meguilar's mentioned in this thread.

Where can you purchase these? Can you used a circular buffer for the flat areas w/o damaging the paint or decals?
Meantoshop

I purchase Meguiars RV Flagship at a local Napa Store in 32z size around $20. Believe it is now a cleaner wax also bought a Griott DA buffer at BJ's online club for under $90 on special. The wax is easy to apply and remove. On my roof I used the regular Meguiars in a red bottle as it is around $6 may use the Flagship next time. I did one coat each side and the roof, I did several on the front and back. The Griott buffer does a nice job but you could apply by hand as well.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:56 AM   #30
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I had mine done in Las Vegas on Tuesday. $272 for wash, wax, windows and wheels. 2nd time using "Super Touch", great job both times.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:06 AM   #31
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The quote I got from Lazy Days, Seffner, Fl in Mar was $750 for my 45ft coach. I passed on that.
Somebody has to pay for all those free lunches.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:44 PM   #32
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After detailing cars, suvs & trucks for over a decade, it's not about the cost...it's about the method(s).

If your coach paint is in good shape, but just needs waxing to keep the protection up, then an orbital buffer will be your best friend. Will NEVER create swirls, the buffer does all the work, and allows you to cover a lot of coach quickly and easily. On the pad, I use a liquid brightener and a paste wax. I really think highly of Meguire's products.

Using a "professional" buffer can end in disaster! Swirls seen on the one coach are bad enough, but I've seen the buffer used so incorrectly as to remove ALL the paint (down to the primer & metal) by just a moment of inattention. And those swirl marks could have all been removed had they followed up the wax removal by using a lamb's wool bonnet for the finally shine. Sure, takes and extra pass... but that leaves the finish like glass.

The best advise...never let your paint "go" ~ when it rains, or you wash it and it doesn't bead water, WAX IMMEDIATELY! At that point an orbital buffer and a good wax is all you need. Waiting longer leads to more 'invasive' waxing proceedures.

Oh, and when you wash it (unless you have road tar on sides), just spray it thoroughly first then use a mitt...NO SOAP. Soap just removes the wax, and you're not trying to eat off the side of it.

Just my two cents.

Mark
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:21 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by MarkofSJC
After detailing cars, suvs & trucks for over a decade, it's not about the cost...it's about the method(s).

If your coach paint is in good shape, but just needs waxing to keep the protection up, then an orbital buffer will be your best friend. Will NEVER create swirls, the buffer does all the work, and allows you to cover a lot of coach quickly and easily. On the pad, I use a liquid brightener and a paste wax. I really think highly of Meguire's products.

Using a "professional" buffer can end in disaster! Swirls seen on the one coach are bad enough, but I've seen the buffer used so incorrectly as to remove ALL the paint (down to the primer & metal) by just a moment of inattention. And those swirl marks could have all been removed had they followed up the wax removal by using a lamb's wool bonnet for the finally shine. Sure, takes and extra pass... but that leaves the finish like glass.

The best advise...never let your paint "go" ~ when it rains, or you wash it and it doesn't bead water, WAX IMMEDIATELY! At that point an orbital buffer and a good wax is all you need. Waiting longer leads to more 'invasive' waxing proceedures.

Oh, and when you wash it (unless you have road tar on sides), just spray it thoroughly first then use a mitt...NO SOAP. Soap just removes the wax, and you're not trying to eat off the side of it.

Just my two cents.

Mark
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I have 1992 four winds and all the side are slightly oxidized we want to remove all the decals to put new ones on. I have started to remove the old decals the decals remove easy but leaves the adhesive that will take this off easy .
Where I have got the adhesive off it is bright white so I think I oxidized bad
We have only own this for about one year
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:10 PM   #34
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I think $400 sounds in the ball park for the work you are having done, especially with the painting of the steps and fenders, I have a gel coat exterior and use Protect All oxidation remover/ color restorer and a good carnuba wax, I was able to take quite a bit of oxidation off mine by hand,mine takes me 8 hrs to polish and 4 hours to wax myself, I also dress the tires and polish the wheels that is another 4 hrs, I use Mequires Hot Shine tire shine it protects your tires from oxidation and cracking and gives them a "wet" look, and mothers polish for the wheels.
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #35
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I do it myself.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:05 PM   #36
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We were in yuma in february had our forest river lexington 283gts washed and hand waxed for 120.00 plus 20.00 tip - , oh by the way they also incuded our jeep wrangler sahara toad in the package,
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:07 AM   #37
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The going rate in central Florida is $10 a ft., and that's a LOT of work. I have done our own. So, I think your price quote is fair.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:34 PM   #38
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Well they did it today.washed with di water,machine buffed,tire dressing, even painted windshield wiper arms.turned out great,$250 35' class A
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:01 AM   #39
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Grriot's is my drug of choice. When I hit the lottery I am going to buy one of everything in his catalog!
I have both the 6 inch and 3 inch orbitals. I use both on the MH and cars. In my tool box I have Griot's Machine Polish 3, Best Show Wax, and One Step Sealant (for the fiberglass roof). What can I say, I am a junkie, and detailing is one of the ways I decompress, even while in camp.:-)
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:46 PM   #40
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...Might tell him to skip the tire dressing though, that's the worst thing you can do to them.
Good point. I actually read the paperwork that came with the last set of Michelins I bought for a car. It stated using a tire dressing with petroleum distillates will void the warranty.

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After this $520 fiasco by a supposed "professional" detailer with 25 years experience http://photobucket.com/Phaeton_Buff I now do it myself.
Those are swirls left from a high-speed buffer. I've removed a lot of dead paint from vehicles over the years with one of those. I'd not ever use it on paint that hasn't been neglected.

When the kid was at home, and the motorhome was due for a waxing, I used to wait until he messed up enough for a grounding. Then I'd offer him the choice -- two weeks with no TV/Nintendo or wax the Motorhome, by hand.
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:36 PM   #41
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Mark
I have 1992 four winds and all the side are slightly oxidized we want to remove all the decals to put new ones on. I have started to remove the old decals the decals remove easy but leaves the adhesive that will take this off easy .
Where I have got the adhesive off it is bright white so I think I oxidized bad
We have only own this for about one year
Decals can be tricky on a number of levels.
1) Removal - The adheasive they leave behind is both nasty and typically very wide spread. I recommend something like "GOO OFF" or even WD-40. You'll need to spray it on (cool surface only) and allow it to sit for a while (10 min at least). Then I'd suggest using a series of paper towels. Use the first one to begin wiping it up while rotating the towel so as not to just smir it all over the place. Descard and start with a new one as the first one is used up. You may have to go back a second time to completely remove all the adheasive.

2) Detailing - the most vulerable part of any decal is it's edges. Hit it with any high speed buffer turning from across the edge and - boom, it's ripped or pulled up. If using any buffer (high speed or orbital) you want to make sure you're only coming in contact initially with the decal and the buffer wheel is turning out/away, towards the edge and painted surface. This will minimize the ridge of wax that builds up along the edge as well as any resulting damages.

3) Replacing - While they initially add some "splash" that look, as it ages, quickly detracts from the better looking painted surface. I'd question ever replacing them.

As for oxidation. I'd suggest starting with an orbital buffer and just a regular high quality wax in a small area. It may do the trick. If not satisfied, you'll have to graduation to a more aggressive step...a fine rubbing compound followed by waxing. You want to start as least aggressive as possible!

Patience and working small areas at a time are the key.

Just my two cents.

Mark
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:43 PM   #42
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i run a bodyshop and to wash and PROPERLY buff and wax a car takes 2 guys 4 hrs. at 55.00/hr that equals 440.00 and that dosnt cover any materials. i havent waxed my coach yet since ive only had it a month but if i were to charge for a real quality wash and buff i think anything under 1000.00 would be fair. i know i wouldnt do it for less.
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