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Old 03-15-2019, 05:59 PM   #1
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Waxed our Full Body paint Georgetown, looks awful

Well, I washed and waxed our full body paint FR Georgetown, using Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax. I followed directions and I decided to buff it by hand, because I didn't want to get swirl marks on it with a buffing wheel. The RV isn't new, but this is the first time I've waxed it, since we bought it. I tried a second coat, and it's still doing the same thing. What went wrong, and should I call a pro? Should I use a buffing wheel? Thanks so much.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:09 PM   #2
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What is happening exactly? Also what temperature are you doing in in?
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:10 PM   #3
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You say it’s still doing the “same thing.” By that you mean swirl marks from your hand application? If so and if you applied the wax to a hot surface (assumption) then the wax formed a barrier preventing complete swirl free removal. I suggest a spray on detail wax using the buffer ( light pressure) and no more than a 4’square section at a time. If this does not work, professional help may be warranted. Where are you located?
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:14 PM   #4
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What is happening exactly? Also what temperature are you doing in in?
We're in Orlando, where its pretty warm in the 80's. One side was towards the sun the other in the shade. Both sides look streaky and uneven. When I try to shine it some more, with a clean microfiber towel, it still is streaky. I did not over apply, and folllowed directions. The previous owner didn't wax it enough, and it was in need of a wax job. Thanks in advance for your help. My wife is pretty upset.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:25 PM   #5
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https://www.target.com/p/meguiar-s-s...CABEgKbdPD_BwE

A clay bar will remove the old wax and any ingrained dirt. I have clay barred several cars but not a motorhome. It's gonna take you several days but it should work.

Never wax a car in the full sun although I think you know that now.

I learned how to use a clay bar when my wife spray painted some furniture in the garage...next to my car. Clay bar took the over spray off.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:32 PM   #6
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That is allot of work for you to not be happy.
I have seen this happen on boat waxed out in the open a few times.
My experiences only.
Never wax a vehicle in the direct sun.
NEVER
And especially if its over 65 to 70 degrees.
The wax immediately bakes into the paint.
Especially a cleaner wax with
Petroleum products.

We do the shade side early morning.
We do the shade side very late evening especially when daytime highs reach 75 plus.
Always do VERY SMALL AREAS AT A TIME.
THE WARMER IT IS. THE FASTER YOU MOVE.
ON AND BUFFED OUT FAST.

Working maybe a square foot at a time.

In my opinion.

Every situation is different obviously.

Polish on fiberglass
Wax on painted surfaces.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:39 PM   #7
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If it hasn't been waxed in a long time it probably needs to be polished first to remove oxidation, and then waxed. Yes a lot of work, but I would recommend using a Variable Speed Random Orbital Dual-Action Polisher.

I agree with the previous comments, work only in the shade and follow the directions carefully.
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KathyandMark View Post
The RV isn't new, but this is the first time I've waxed it, since we bought it.
[moderator edit]

Ok, before I go into any details here to get great results, let's dig a little deeper shall we?

"Since you bought it"?
So does that mean you bought it new 6 years ago and this is the first time you've waxed it"?

Consider creating a simple signature, that way people won't have to ask "What Model of coach do you have".
You create a signature by:
1) Go to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BobGed View Post
If it hasn't been waxed in a long time it probably needs to be polished first to remove oxidation, and then waxed. Yes a lot of work, but I would recommend using a Variable Speed Random Orbital Dual-Action Polisher.

I agree with the previous comments, work only in the shade and follow the directions carefully.
Thanks everyone, for your help. The product is a synthetic polymer,
( Hydrophobic Synthetic Polymer). According to instructions, I'm supposed to be able to use it in complete sun. I'm trying a second coat, with flood lights on, because here in Florida, it's always too hot, it seems. I'm doing one square foot at a time, hoping for the best. Here's more info on the product.

"Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax uses Meguiar's ThinFilm technology to deliver our easiest application and removal, even if you have to wax in full sun! Meguiar's proprietary Hydrophobic Polymer Technology increases surface tension so water beads and rolls right off. We've re-set the bar with a pure synthetic polymer wax that provides extended protection with amplified reflectivity for incredible depth & mirror-like shine. It does all of this without leaving white residue on plastic and rubber.
EFFORTLESS APPLICATION: Thin Film technology provides for easy application and wipe off even in full sun, and will not stain non-painted trim pieces white
LONG-LASTING PROTECTION: Advanced synthetic polymers crosslink to form a long-lasting protective barrier while amplifying reflection for incredible depth and mirror-like shine
WATER ROLLS RIGHT OFF PAINT: Hydrophobic Polymer technology increases surface tension to protect paint
SAFE AND FLEXIBLE: Safe and effective on all glossy paints and clear coats, and can be applied by hand or dual action variable speed polisher like Meguiar's MT300 Dual Action Polisher"
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KathyandMark View Post
We're in Orlando, where its pretty warm in the 80's. One side was towards the sun the other in the shade. Both sides look streaky and uneven. When I try to shine it some more, with a clean microfiber towel, it still is streaky. I did not over apply, and folllowed directions. The previous owner didn't wax it enough, and it was in need of a wax job. Thanks in advance for your help. My wife is pretty upset.
Just a suggestion but try using a maguires fine compound first with a sponge pad, small sections at a time. The streaks are probably oxidization due too not enough waxing. This will be allot of work, once finished with the compound, polish again. Make sure your cloths, pads etc are very clean with zero particals.

Good Luck!
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:43 PM   #11
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Adding more wax is only going to make it worse. You are waxing over old wax, dirt, grime, oils and a multitude of thing the environment has sent at it. The coach needs to be stripped and should be multi-level compounded to get back to a finish you can work with.

If you do not have the ability to buff it or do not want to you have several choices. In Florida there are detailers that will go to you and they are reasonable. I always do my own coach when it's NY but when in FL I get it down its so inexpensive.

So if you want to give it another shot with out buffing. Wash it with blue dawn and use a good amount. Then wash it again with dawn but less this time. Dawn will get the oils off and strip some of the old wax. It's not a miracle worker but few products work as well for this. Ideally washing it with softened filtered water will help a lot. But either way, dry areas of the coach with a clean damp shami. If it is getting dirty then wash it again it's still dirty. Once the crap is off it then go ahead and wax it as others have stated, in the shade. But don't use maquires that works best when the paint has been properly buffed and prepped but makes a mess when the paint has not been taken of. Use something like a fast and easy it will work better. It will not last as long but short of going through the proper steps its the best for your situation.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:30 PM   #12
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Marjoa

[QUOTE=marjoa;4679610] [Moderator edit]

Ok, before I go into any details here to get great results, let's dig a little deeper shall we?

"Since you bought it"?
So does that mean you bought it new 6 years ago and this is the first time you've waxed it"?

Consider creating a simple signature, that way people won't have to ask "What Model of coach do you have".
You create a signature by:
1) Go to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.[/QU

Hello Marjoa, I'm able to find the help I need from the other responses. It sounds like you're attempting to help me, however, I found your statement about "having to dig" for my information rather condescending. I'm good here, no need to respond anymore. The other people on the board seem to be more graceful, respectful and helpful. God Bless.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:33 PM   #13
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Gonetoraces

Quote:
Originally Posted by GonetoRaces View Post
Just a suggestion but try using a maguires fine compound first with a sponge pad, small sections at a time. The streaks are probably oxidization due too not enough waxing. This will be allot of work, once finished with the compound, polish again. Make sure your cloths, pads etc are very clean with zero particals.

Good Luck!
Thank you so much for your help
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:35 PM   #14
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Thank you, so far, things are improving. I purchased some new microfiber cloths, and slowly, the streak are going away. It's looking better. Tomorrow will tell. Thank you!
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