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Old 07-09-2011, 08:31 PM   #1
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Talking Weak start, v-10 ford

After unit has not been used for a few days. I experience the "no start", due to no fuel in the "injector loop". This requires me to turn on the ignition key for 10 minutes, then crank the engine till it starts. About 30 seconds, 60 max" The engine starts at 250 rpm, then slowly increases to 500 rpm, then 1000 rpm. within a 1 minute time span. The engine settles back to 800 rpm. I must let it idle for another 5 minutes before moving the motor home.
I then drive it for 5 to 10 miles before the "weak" performance improves and it runs normally. IT FEELS LIKE THE ENGINE IS FLOODED.
The unit runs normally for the rest of the day. My start up for the 2nd day is almost normal.
I have tested the fuel pressure at the "injector loop" and get 38 psi @ stat and 30 psi while operating the engine.
I get no codes from the "Digital OBDII CODE READER"
? is this an injector leak? is this fuel leaking back into the gas tank?
HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS SYMPTOM?
ANSWER ON THIS THREAD AND / OR E MAIL: glasea3@gmail.com
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:06 PM   #2
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When you turn the switch on, the ECM usually only runs the fuel pump for two seconds. Try turning the switch on wait two seconds , turn off. Do this four or five times and see if it helps.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shufflerg-l View Post
After unit has not been used for a few days. I experience the "no start", due to no fuel in the "injector loop".
Leave a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel rail for a few days. If pressure goes to zero and you can not find any external leaks, it must be leaking somewhere. I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or a bad check valve in the fuel pump which would let the fuel drain back into the tank.
You could try running fuel injector cleaner with a tank of gas and see if that helps, otherwise would need to diagnose further.
I would try cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds when it wont start with a fuel pressure gauge attached. Note your fuel pump pressure. If the pressure is good and won't start then pull each spark plug out. If any are soaking wet you will know which injector is leaking. If all the plugs are dry then I would suspect a faulty check valve in the fuel pump.
If when you where cranking the engine you noted no fuel pump pressure, then I would suspect a weak/lazy fuel pump.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:58 PM   #4
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Your fuel pressure readings are normal - providing they remain in that range regardless of time and temperature. About 30 at idle or low-load and up to 40 under heavy load.

Did you ever try replacing the ACT (manifold air temp) sensor as I suggested in an earlier thread you posted???

If it is bad or dirty it will make the engine run very rich when cold.

Good luck with your diagnosis and repair.
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:39 PM   #5
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g a travler
Yes the suggestion to turn key on, then off , really helped. takes 2 minutes to get the "loop" filled with fuel.
Thanks, shuffler1-2
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer View Post
Leave a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel rail for a few days. If pressure goes to zero and you can not find any external leaks, it must be leaking somewhere. I would suspect a leaking fuel injector or a bad check valve in the fuel pump which would let the fuel drain back into the tank.
You could try running fuel injector cleaner with a tank of gas and see if that helps, otherwise would need to diagnose further.
I would try cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds when it wont start with a fuel pressure gauge attached. Note your fuel pump pressure. If the pressure is good and won't start then pull each spark plug out. If any are soaking wet you will know which injector is leaking. If all the plugs are dry then I would suspect a faulty check valve in the fuel pump.
If when you where cranking the engine you noted no fuel pump pressure, then I would suspect a weak/lazy fuel pump.
Wanta be

I like the idea to pull the plugs and look for a wet plug, maybe I will replace all of the injectors if one or more depicts the problem. $224 will buy 10 bosch rebuilt injectors and instructions to install. Has anyone installed the injectors?
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:54 PM   #7
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Wanta be

I like the idea to pull the plugs and look for a wet plug, maybe I will replace all of the injectors if one or more depicts the problem. $224 will buy 10 bosch rebuilt injectors and instructions to install. Has anyone installed the injectors?
If you had improved starting by cycling the key (additional run time for the fuel pump) it does not sound like a fuel injector problem, sounds more like a lazy fuel pump and/or bad check valve.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:20 PM   #8
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Wanna be (John)
The flooding for 5 to 10 miles leads me to believe the problem is with the injectors. I am going to try removing the plugs and looking for the flooded one (or more)
I have just returned from a 3 week shuffle trip through Ohio(only 280 miles) and will be working on my weak start problem next week. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-B View Post
Your fuel pressure readings are normal - providing they remain in that range regardless of time and temperature. About 30 at idle or low-load and up to 40 under heavy load.

Did you ever try replacing the ACT (manifold air temp) sensor as I suggested in an earlier thread you posted???

If it is bad or dirty it will make the engine run very rich when cold.

Good luck with your diagnosis and repair.
Nick B
where is the ACT (manifold air sensor sensor) located on the ford 99 v-10 engine. I am ready to try it.
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:10 PM   #10
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The air temp sensor is usually in the intake tube, between the throttle body and the air cleaner.

I wouldn't waste my money replacing it unless it was setting a code though.

Have you doen the fuel pressure check suggested by others in previous posts?
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:25 PM   #11
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shufflerg-l - I don't have the V10 so I can't say where your is located. On my 460 it is screwed into the top of the intake manifold so it is sensing air temp inside the manifold not the inlet tube. Sound like you need a chassis manual to help you out.

I can say it make a BIG difference in cold start performance. No more blubbering and rich smelling exhaust for the first several minutes.

BTW JimM, it never set a code but changing it definitely helped.
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