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Old 07-11-2015, 09:23 PM   #1
elp
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Weird Toilet Problem

I have a Class A 2005 Thor Hurricane motor home. I bought the motor home a year ago. It had 10,500 miles. When I bought the motor home the toilet leaked sometimes, but not all the time. Over the last year, I have had it fixed only to notice the same problem. I have discovered that the toilet NEVER leaks when you flush the toilet. It only leaks when the shower is running and the shower head is turned off. It only leaks at the input to the toilet on the screw on connection to the toilet. It looks like some kind of pressure issue? I like to use the fresh water take all of the time, so the water pump is always on. I am going to call Thor to make sure the screw on connector the last repair guy put on was the right fitting. Maybe that could be the problem? Anyone have any ideas? I have been fighting this for a year and hate having a towel on the floor behind the toilet!

HELP!!!!!!!!!
Ed
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:31 PM   #2
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With the particle board or oriented strand make up of most underlayment floors in RVs, you definitely want to stop the leaking before your floor rots, molds, or crumbles. You said there is a screw on fitting. Have you tried tightening the fitting? You might back it off and wrap the threads with teflon plumber's tape. I really don't understand why it would only leak when the shower head is shut off, the pressure to the toilet should be the same whenever the water pump is on or you're hooked up to city water.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:38 PM   #3
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I know! The fact this has been going for so long REALLY bothers me. We don't use the shower much any more for that reason, but some campgrounds with full hookups don't have showers.. This is one weird problem!
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:59 AM   #4
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It might help to keep a head of air in your water heater. You can ensure this by releasing the overpressure switch and draining hot water untill no water comes out of the switch.

Have a nice day - Darrel
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:57 PM   #5
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Make sure water isn't running down the outside of the supply line from higher up and then just appearing to come from the fitting. Seems like it is a pressure-related problem, but it's strange since campgrounds have a wide range of pressures. Plus the pressure your 12V system produces varies from campgrounds too. If it is a problem at the toilet connection it can certainly be corrected. Make sure there isn't a cracked nut or a crack in the threads there that flexes under certain pressure conditions.
About Darrel's suggestion; I only want to be helpful and not argumentative, but I don't think air in the water heater is a good idea. Depending on the relief placement one could possibly lower the water level below the heating elements and thereby burn them up. Also, the cold side would still be at it's original pressure anyway.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerreknit View Post
Make sure water isn't running down the outside of the supply line from higher up and then just appearing to come from the fitting. Seems like it is a pressure-related problem, but it's strange since campgrounds have a wide range of pressures. Plus the pressure your 12V system produces varies from campgrounds too. If it is a problem at the toilet connection it can certainly be corrected. Make sure there isn't a cracked nut or a crack in the threads there that flexes under certain pressure conditions.
About Darrel's suggestion; I only want to be helpful and not argumentative, but I don't think air in the water heater is a good idea. Depending on the relief placement one could possibly lower the water level below the heating elements and thereby burn them up. Also, the cold side would still be at it's original pressure anyway.
Most RV water heaters NEED an expansion air bubble in them. It's designed into them by the placement of the valves and openings. An air space naturally occurs to allow expansion of the heating water. The expansion has to be allowed somewhere or else you'll dribble water out the pressure valve. The air space happens the first time you fill the water tank, but over time the air can get absorbed by the water. First signs of this would be water seeping from the pressure valve.



It's restored just as Darrel suggested, shut off the pump or shore hose and open the pressure relief valve on the WH tank until no water comes out and air goes into the tank. The resulting air pocket is only the top inch or so of the tank and won't burn out any electric elements that are well below this level.

That being said, the lack of an air chamber in the water heater wouldn't create the issue reported by Ed. (elp) My go to leak detector is a piece of toilet paper wrapped around a suspected leak point. When it's wet, you've got a leak. Wrapping around the line up from the connection would show if it's leaking 'upstream' as tinkerreknit suggests.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:36 PM   #7
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I always think I know a little about lots of subjects, but this is news to me. It certainly makes sense, though. So Darrel, I hope I didn't offend with my bad info. And BFlinn181, thanks for the lesson.
I do hope the OP posts the final solution because I'm intrigued by this. I always file these problems and their solutions away in my brain for possible use later.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:17 PM   #8
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I had the same exact problem with my 06 SeaBreeze.
After pulling my hair out for months I finally found the source of the problem.
There was no teflon tape at the connection between the toilet and the water line.
Believe it or not that is what fixed it.
They are made of different plastics and have different expansion coefficients. The teflon tape serves as the flexible gasket.
2 years later and no leaks. We still keep the piece of paper towel on the floor behind the toilet to see if it ever leaks again, but it never has.

Hope this works for you.
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:02 PM   #9
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Well the Teflon tape may have fixed the problem. It's been a day and no leak! Thanks to all of the teriffic replies! You know I noticed another weird thing when running the pump and shower the input hose vibrates rather substantially at the toilet. I am also not running from the fresh water tank unless I need to. Thanks everyone! Ed Papps
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:41 PM   #10
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A pulsing caused by the water pump is not uncommon. An accumulator tank would smooth things out. It's a small tank with a rubber membrane that uses air on one side and water on the other. It smooths out pulses and water hammer. (sudden stop of water flow when a faucet closes) If you have one, then the air side needs pumping up of pressure to restore the air bladder. You could install one if you don't have one.

http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-20.../dp/B000N9VF6Q

I don't know if one of these would help on a RV system, I had to install them when we got a new washing machine that turns on and off the water a dozen times or more on each cycle of a wash. The hammering was very loud and I feared for the plumbing. Installing these at the hot and cold faucets of the washer quieted it right down. Perhaps one on the line coming from the pump would serve as a 'shock' absorber.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chi...3-BS/203448664
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