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Old 01-11-2013, 10:36 PM   #15
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A 1/2 grade 8 would be more than good enough if you didnt want to weld but wanted a more warm fuzzy feeling
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:54 AM   #16
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Just looked it up, single shear on a 1/2" grade 5 is 14,000 pounds and 17600 pounds on a grade 8 bolt.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:12 AM   #17
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Your welder is looking for a return to ground, that it. If you are ground on the front and welding on the rear a problem could arise, always hook the ground to what ever you are welding on and make sure it is a GOOD ground and you will never have a problem. A bad ground will use the paths (paths of least resistance) of other electrical equipment as a path and that is where a problem will happen. Over a lot of years of following this grounding procedure I have never had a problem. Welding can only cause you problems with electronics or battery's if you don't have a good ground where you are welding and it has to pass through equipment to obtain a ground.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:40 PM   #18
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Your welder is looking for a return to ground, that it. If you are ground on the front and welding on the rear a problem could arise, always hook the ground to what ever you are welding on and make sure it is a GOOD ground and you will never have a problem. A bad ground will use the paths (paths of least resistance) of other electrical equipment as a path and that is where a problem will happen. Over a lot of years of following this grounding procedure I have never had a problem. Welding can only cause you problems with electronics or battery's if you don't have a good ground where you are welding and it has to pass through equipment to obtain a ground.

I respect your opinion, but I still feel better removing the battery cables. I learned to weld for someone you did it for a living probably with experance like yours and he always removed. He said rather be safe than sorry.

But you know to each there own. Whatever works for you and makes you happy ...... I have seen people do it and not have problems also, so I know it can be done.

No offence ment here
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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I respect your opinion, but I still feel better removing the battery cables. I learned to weld for someone you did it for a living probably with experance like yours and he always removed. He said rather be safe than sorry.

But you know to each there own. Whatever works for you and makes you happy ...... I have seen people do it and not have problems also, so I know it can be done.

No offence ment here
Never no offence taken, don't forget the ecm's on the tranny and the engine.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:00 PM   #20
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Never no offence taken, don't forget the ecm's on the tranny and the engine.

Hmmmm now see I was always told that by removing the battery you were ok ........ But I always wondered that everything is still hooked up to the chassis that it could get "feedback"

Now I learned to weld for a old schooler, who was doing this well before ECM's and other garbage they have on stuff now. So maybe that was OK in the good ole days when you could give something a kick and cuss and it would work again.

Can you elighten me some!!
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:14 PM   #21
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Hmmmm now see I was always told that by removing the battery you were ok ........ But I always wondered that everything is still hooked up to the chassis that it could get "feedback"

Now I learned to weld for a old schooler, who was doing this well before ECM's and other garbage they have on stuff now. So maybe that was OK in the good ole days when you could give something a kick and cuss and it would work again.

Can you elighten me some!!
I can't tell you much more than I did in post#17, I had to weld the frame for the hyd. fan mount on my side radiator, one whole side was broken, I wire wheeled the area so it was clean and then on the other side I cleaned a area for the ground(no paint, bare metal) so my ground was on the mount I was welding. This makes for a really good ground with no sparking when a arch is struck. I have always used this method over the years of weld repair (taught this from a old timer). I have seen grounds put on anywhere and the welding is at the opposite end of where the ground is and this condition is asking for trouble. Years ago the thing was to unhook your alternator and battery cables (old wise tales) so you didn't burn them up. The only chance of this happening is bad ground condition and location when welding.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:22 PM   #22
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I can't tell you much more than I did in post#17, I had to weld the frame for the hyd. fan mount on my side radiator, one whole side was broken, I wire wheeled the area so it was clean and then on the other side I cleaned a area for the ground(no paint, bare metal) so my ground was on the mount I was welding. This makes for a really good ground with no sparking when a arch is struck. I have always used this method over the years of weld repair (taught this from a old timer). I have seen grounds put on anywhere and the welding is at the opposite end of where the ground is and this condition is asking for trouble. Years ago the thing was to unhook your alternator and battery cables (old wise tales) so you didn't burn them up. The only chance of this happening is bad ground condition and location when welding.
Hmmm yeah I always prep my ground like that. Basicly you said everything I have known except the "old wise tale" part.

Old habits are hard to break, heck I still use a "pointer" style torque wrench .... Maybe Im just wasting my time, makes more sence now that I have actually sat here and gave it thought (I have never questioned it untill now).

Life is always teaching you new tricks!



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