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01-11-2013, 09:36 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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A 1/2 grade 8 would be more than good enough if you didnt want to weld but wanted a more warm fuzzy feeling
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Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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01-12-2013, 07:54 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,173
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Just looked it up, single shear on a 1/2" grade 5 is 14,000 pounds and 17600 pounds on a grade 8 bolt.
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NHSO
2021 DSDP 4081
2016 DSDP 4369
2012 DSDP 3734
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01-12-2013, 08:12 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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Your welder is looking for a return to ground, that it. If you are ground on the front and welding on the rear a problem could arise, always hook the ground to what ever you are welding on and make sure it is a GOOD ground and you will never have a problem. A bad ground will use the paths (paths of least resistance) of other electrical equipment as a path and that is where a problem will happen. Over a lot of years of following this grounding procedure I have never had a problem. Welding can only cause you problems with electronics or battery's if you don't have a good ground where you are welding and it has to pass through equipment to obtain a ground.
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2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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01-12-2013, 01:40 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89
Your welder is looking for a return to ground, that it. If you are ground on the front and welding on the rear a problem could arise, always hook the ground to what ever you are welding on and make sure it is a GOOD ground and you will never have a problem. A bad ground will use the paths (paths of least resistance) of other electrical equipment as a path and that is where a problem will happen. Over a lot of years of following this grounding procedure I have never had a problem. Welding can only cause you problems with electronics or battery's if you don't have a good ground where you are welding and it has to pass through equipment to obtain a ground.
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I respect your opinion, but I still feel better removing the battery cables. I learned to weld for someone you did it for a living probably with experance like yours and he always removed. He said rather be safe than sorry.
But you know to each there own. Whatever works for you and makes you happy ...... I have seen people do it and not have problems also, so I know it can be done.
No offence ment here
__________________
Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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01-12-2013, 01:43 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F239141
I respect your opinion, but I still feel better removing the battery cables. I learned to weld for someone you did it for a living probably with experance like yours and he always removed. He said rather be safe than sorry.
But you know to each there own. Whatever works for you and makes you happy ...... I have seen people do it and not have problems also, so I know it can be done.
No offence ment here
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Never no offence taken, don't forget the ecm's on the tranny and the engine.
__________________
2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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01-12-2013, 02:00 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89
Never no offence taken, don't forget the ecm's on the tranny and the engine.
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Hmmmm now see I was always told that by removing the battery you were ok ........ But I always wondered that everything is still hooked up to the chassis that it could get "feedback"
Now I learned to weld for a old schooler, who was doing this well before ECM's and other garbage they have on stuff now. So maybe that was OK in the good ole days when you could give something a kick and cuss and it would work again.
Can you elighten me some!!
__________________
Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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01-12-2013, 02:14 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 10,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F239141
Hmmmm now see I was always told that by removing the battery you were ok ........ But I always wondered that everything is still hooked up to the chassis that it could get "feedback"
Now I learned to weld for a old schooler, who was doing this well before ECM's and other garbage they have on stuff now. So maybe that was OK in the good ole days when you could give something a kick and cuss and it would work again.
Can you elighten me some!!
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I can't tell you much more than I did in post#17, I had to weld the frame for the hyd. fan mount on my side radiator, one whole side was broken, I wire wheeled the area so it was clean and then on the other side I cleaned a area for the ground(no paint, bare metal) so my ground was on the mount I was welding. This makes for a really good ground with no sparking when a arch is struck. I have always used this method over the years of weld repair (taught this from a old timer). I have seen grounds put on anywhere and the welding is at the opposite end of where the ground is and this condition is asking for trouble. Years ago the thing was to unhook your alternator and battery cables (old wise tales) so you didn't burn them up. The only chance of this happening is bad ground condition and location when welding.
__________________
2012 Essex 4544 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006 Ultra & 1989 Springer, 2003 Harley-Davidson
FLHR Road King Anniversary
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01-12-2013, 02:22 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89
I can't tell you much more than I did in post#17, I had to weld the frame for the hyd. fan mount on my side radiator, one whole side was broken, I wire wheeled the area so it was clean and then on the other side I cleaned a area for the ground(no paint, bare metal) so my ground was on the mount I was welding. This makes for a really good ground with no sparking when a arch is struck. I have always used this method over the years of weld repair (taught this from a old timer). I have seen grounds put on anywhere and the welding is at the opposite end of where the ground is and this condition is asking for trouble. Years ago the thing was to unhook your alternator and battery cables (old wise tales) so you didn't burn them up. The only chance of this happening is bad ground condition and location when welding.
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Hmmm yeah I always prep my ground like that. Basicly you said everything I have known except the "old wise tale" part.
Old habits are hard to break, heck I still use a "pointer" style torque wrench .... Maybe Im just wasting my time, makes more sence now that I have actually sat here and gave it thought (I have never questioned it untill now).
Life is always teaching you new tricks!
Sorry to be a hi-jacker!!!
__________________
Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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