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Old 09-29-2017, 12:19 PM   #1
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 31
Wet Bay Remodel

I've posted this on the Thor forum, but I thought I'd try this here as well. I have a 2014 Thor Palazzo 36.1 and I'm not happy with the wet bay configuration / Kantleak performance. I'm curious if anyone has remodeled that area and if so, did you install a different fresh water management system (i.e. Nautilus P1 or P2) or just go back with the same old, same old? Pictures and diagrams would be a big help if you have any ...

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Old 09-29-2017, 03:39 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,076
we don't have a Thor and didn't change out the fresh water mgmt. system in our Itasca but we did do (actually had done) a wet bay remodel. what we did may give you some ideas.
  • added an electric hose reel
  • added a pair of Watts stainless steel water pressure gauges to show the base static pressure and the adjusted water pressure
  • added a second tank level monitor (not pictured)
  • added an extra san-t-flush for the gray tank (not pictured)
  • modified the winterizing system to be done from the wet bay

'73, Rich, N9DKO
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q/2010 Jeep Liberty
Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
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Old 09-29-2017, 04:07 PM   #3
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Thanks rk911 ... If you don't mind my asking, why two gauges?
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Old 09-29-2017, 04:25 PM   #4
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Location: western NC mountains!
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I've done several 'remodels' over several years, and for different reasons:

- 2015, removed the left white 'cover' to reveal the wonderful and useful area behind it, in order to bring the water pump and water filter over from the 'useless' other side of the wet bay water tank sidewall(where they are both next to impossible to service. I think I also cut out about 20' of water tubing(Thor could save some money there!)... I also added a pressurized 'air tank' to minimize the 'instant' running of the water pump every time you do a simple toilet flush or sink faucet usage.

- in 2016, while the factory service center was handling some other issues, such as changing out the main bay and wet bay flooring due to water leakage issues and inferior flooring design, they politely cut me a larger 10" deck plate hole for the sewer. At first I didn't know if I really needed the larger size, but now I love it. It gives you much more room to maneuver 'down' the sewer outlet, and attachments are much easier. I also added a 'oil change pan' to underneath the hole, adding a hole near the same size in the pan itself. Now I can ride without having to ever add the deck plate 'cover', and just add a small towel down in the pan to keep out air. Since I use a clear sewer attachment, it now can stay on the sewer outlet all the time, and any 'leakage' that might occur heads down into the 'pan', not the wet bay floor.

- recently I diagnosed a small slow leak on my Anderson 'kan't leak' valve... of course! and in the process of fixing it, I also removed the right side white 'cover', revealing all of the 'plumbing' spaghetti!... and I decided to LEAVE IT OPEN... it actually allows me to see exactly how the system is plumbed... nice.

... at the same time, while on the right side of the plumbing, I looked up at the top, where the black tank is held into place with brackets, and the tank was not in the brackets!... bumping roads in Alaska?? from the factory back in 2014?? who knows... but an easy 'fix'.

all problems now solved : )
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Old 09-29-2017, 05:47 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Gordon1152 View Post
Thanks rk911 ... If you don't mind my asking, why two gauges?
well, i wanted to know what the uncorrected inbound water pressure was as well as what it was adjusted to. necessary? prolly not but...
'73, Rich, N9DKO
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q/2010 Jeep Liberty
Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
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