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Old 12-30-2012, 01:00 PM   #15
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I think the pictures are just the right size,good looking dog also.

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Old 12-30-2012, 01:04 PM   #16
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Can't believe that there wasn't any smell! I'd say you guys were very very lucky you weren't asleep and this condition went a bit further and started a fire. I also found several wires loose in the breaker box in the coach and also in my stick/brick house.

As for the air conditioner unit, wait to see what happens when the wiring is repaired. It could be just fine at least I hope it is.

Good Luck, Be Safe and Above All, Don't Forget To Have Fun
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:07 PM   #17
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I think you sizing of the photos are adequate.

The piece you are looking for is a neutral bar. Remove the old and go to a electrical supply house and they will be able to help you out.

As far as the neutral wire getting overheated and melting. Unfortunately it could be a couple of things. One of the biggest is loose connection, it looks like it could have been in the distribution panel but your entire distribution (plug, cord, transfer switch, panel) system needs to be looked at.

No need to go back to a RV repair facility, a qualified (residential) electrician will be able to get you back to normal. Hopefully he/she will be able to cut the wires back and put pig tails on them, if not the wire(s) can be followed back and a 1900 box can be used as a junction point.

Make sure to check all connections and check the amperage of the circuits with everting on when the repairs are made.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:20 PM   #18
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Photos displayed perfectly on my unit, Dang near "1 to 1" scale. (Netbook bit smaller than 1-1)

Now, what to do,, From the looks of it you are going to have to replace the neutral bus in that box and you may need to trim and re-dress the wires.

Ideally, you should pull all new wire, of a heavier gauge, but this is dang near impossible in a motor home.

A professional may be needed.. What I'd do myself is not precisely code and thus won't be discussed. But I've had that problem.

What causes it.. Most common is a loose screw.. The screws in the photo, Tighten ALL of them
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:35 PM   #19
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Picture size is perfect from what I can tell..

As a professional HVAC manager other wires in your panel show signs from over heating as well. Be very careful when it comes to splices..if you have it done use a screw type system which then can be properly covered. The rust issue would worry me about some form of condensation in that panel.

I check my panel often and have tightened the screws from time to time. I also have an infrared image device that I have used to determine overheating on other issues.

If your not comfortable with this please seek a professional Electrican...not a auto shop person...voltage of this type and the type of panels used requires the right people.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:25 PM   #20
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Photo size was fine. Loaded quickly on my 4G iPhone.

Hope you get your electrical issue resolved quickly and for as few a dollars as possible
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:33 AM   #21
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Ok, if it was mine, I will tell you how I would make temporary repairs, I only hope that when I post photo's they come out as good as yours, Ok, back on track, 1st) disconnect all power, shore, inverter, gen. 2nd) check all the screws on that buss bar to see if there frooze up, or can be reused. If they can be reused, clean the wires the best you can with a small wire brush or scrape with a razor knife, do not gouge or ding the wires, if you take a chunck out of solid wire it will eventually break, I would then put white heat shrink over the wires. If you cant use the screws tho its a mute point, 3rd) If the buss bar is unusable, get a split bolt, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, Ace. Its a bolt shaped like a "U" and the nut goes into the U, to compress all the wires togetgher. you will still need to clean and reinsulate the wires. When you power back up, turn on one breaker at a time to see if any cables are shorted,You may want to pick up a volt meter and check power and ground in this box to make sure your problem was just loose wires, while your still powered down check to all other screws are tight, this box gen switch box, inverter sub panel, ect, any other boxes you have,
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:47 AM   #22
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That is a good reminder for all of us to periodically check our wiring connections at the panel. Thanks for posting.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:04 PM   #23
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Thanks again with hopes to report good news soon....

Wow - I am so happy for becoming a member here and becoming part of the "family" here.

Julian has yet to learn how to use this forum and work has prevented him to speak on this topic but hopes to be trained this evening so that he can take over. LOL

Thank you all and will let you all know once we can test everything afer things are fixed.

I am cutting/pasting your replies for Julian until he can navigate in the form on his own.

Happy New Year to all!

Julian, Pam & Zita
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:18 PM   #24
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Thanks (photos of our dog). I have photo galleries with one being just of Zita under Photos/Member Galleries if you would like to see more photos! Pam
Julian, Pam & Zita
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:35 PM   #25
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I would test and maybe add another smoke detecter. Should have sounded.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:13 PM   #26
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Julian- given your less than fully informed description of the issues (no slight intended, just getting to the point here which is safety), I'd get this looked at by properly informed help, licensed electrician or equivalent.

That whole neutral bar (aka neutral buss or neutral buss bar) is cooked, all active termination screws & the plastic insulator pad. I would be worried there is a larger problem that can cause a fire. That this did not trip a breaker means the load traveling thru the breaker did not exceed its rating, OR that you have a faulty breaker. These breakers look like ~$4 ea at H.D. or Lowes. Given what's at stake, IIWMI'd replace breakers w/new & toss the old ones.

Then replace the neutral buss. This buss is fundamentally different from the ground buss, in that the ground buss is grounded to the frame of the coach, probably also to the chassis of the converter but not positive on that (may depend on the point determined by coach mfgr to be the "service entrance" which might be the transfer switch, but that shouldn't be a factor if you respect the neutral buss req'mts). The isolation stand-offs (insulators) for your n.buss are probably cooked, and that might be why the whole bar cooked or it could be a byproduct (what is the precise problem requiring a firm diagnosis & not just a quickie parts replacement). The new buss should come w/new insulators, and they need to be installed so there is no issue w/possible short to frame. I'd be checking the attachment points for damage that might screw up install of the new buss. A good electrician can re-tap the converter chassis to install the new one from scratch if needed.

Still- isolate the problem that caused this, don't just replace parts as you may revisit this in a more uncomfortable way down the road.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:26 PM   #27
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Trying to determine why this did not trip a breaker is a very good question.
To me this looks more like the result of a short circuit than it does a loose connection but again, not sure why a breaker didn't trip.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:40 PM   #28
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Say a little prayer of thanks - THAT could have been REALLY BAD !
Is this a new rv ? Has someone worked in there because I see some things are suspect !?! Are the fuses the correct amps and in the correct places ?(masybe a 30 amp got switched with a 10 amp or something ?)

I too say get a licensed bonded electrician....
failing that take pictures / videos from every angle, inside and out as your insurance (which you should have) will need it...

MARK everything - where it came from and how connected... etc...

good luck !

If you really are sad and think nobody cares, just try missing a few payments ! '11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT RR10R pushed by a Demco Excali-Bar II hitch which is pushed by a '14 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport.
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