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Old 12-31-2012, 03:10 PM   #29
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I would seriously consider a loose or bad neutral connection. With the degree of burnt wires, you will have to cut them back a considerable distance in order to get back to good wire and insulation. This will leave you wires that are too short to make up to the neutral buss.

Unless you have electrical experience, I'd hire a qualified electrician to make the repairs. I think you will have to set a new junction box behind this box for a new neutral buss. I would not try to splice the wires and put a buss back in its present location.

Also, something that you need to learn to do on a yearly maintenance is to check all of the connections for tightness on the electrical side as well as the water and drain side. Dragging and shaking your house down the road shakes things loose.

Good luck getting this fixed. I would not trust your normal RV tech to fix this properly.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:50 PM   #30
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seeya2,

Looking at your pictures, my guess that you've had water intursion into the box in the past. Note the rust on the neutral terminal screws and on the nuts mounting the box, especially the one mounted to the top of the enclosure. Water could have corroded the connection points making a high resistance connection similar to a loose screw. What is above the enclosure? Could water have wicked its way from the outside of the MH? Do you have piping running near/above the enclosure? You need to figure out the source of the water! This is probably not a new problem; it has festered for some time and you just discovered it. That's probably why no smell could be detected. I'd be interested to hear from you when your investigation and repair are completed. The purpose of the forum - to identify the problem, help determine solutions to repair the condition, but most of all to understand the CAUSE of the problem - can only be successful by you closing the loop, allowing the members to learn and apply those lessons learned to help other members. JM2...
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:55 PM   #31
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Just took a quick scan of the Magnatek 7300 Installation Guide. this is a 120V, 30A main breaker device. Running a single air conditioner wouldn't overload it. Even an a/c running along w/some incidental loads.
Gotta be a bigger problem going on here.

I don't see in the photos a bonding jumper between neutral buss & ground buss, so that function must be present upstream, probably at transfer switch.

Just my $.02- wouldn't bother me to replace the neutral buss inside this box. That proximity is pretty handy when you are trying to diagnose, and certainly so when you are doing annual maintenance & checking all terminations. That said, I'd consider junction type terminations in a box behind this one, and do them w/compression type fittings rather than wire nuts. I have a hand held hydraulic press for such work (needs professional attention to insulating completed junctions). Box needs plenty of volume; anybody trying this using minimum code box volume is a wire nut.

Teddy- good observation & potential problem- moisture. I'm looking at the nut holding ground buss to ceiling of the wire space & how rusted it is. that bond is probably shot and needs to be fixed.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:05 PM   #32
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I don't see in the photos a bonding jumper between neutral buss & ground buss, so that function must be present upstream, probably at transfer switch.

.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that code for mobile home, RVs, and outbuildings states that there shall be NO BONDING except at the MAIN SERVICE, never at the remote service.

The reasoning is that in the case of a partial (high resistance) or full (open circuit) failure in the ground and neutral conductors/connectors, all of the loads that are connected to the ground circuit would become hot and present a hazard.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:27 PM   #33
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Blue- you could be right, I mostly work on high rise & ancient commercial services in San Francisco area.
Now that you mention it, I recall my xfer switch transfers the neutral, so the pedestal & gen are likely the "service" points upstream where neutral is bonded to ground.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:37 PM   #34
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Bluepill,

Your right per NEC Article 551 (2011). The OP needs to ensure the the Qualified Electrical is familiar with this code article. This panel is considered a sub-panel per this code. JM2...
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:04 PM   #35
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I agree that this needs to be looked and repaired by a licensed electrician. One of the neutral wires overheated probably by a loose connection or bad breaker. The heat caused the plastic to melt. I would guess a loose connection. Either way, after testing, the wiring will need to be replaced and a new neutral bar installed.
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pictures are fine but please hire the electrician a fire could be deadly if this is not repaired properly
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:20 PM   #36
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Status on our RV problem....

Just want to say thanks to all of the posts from members. This forum has been of great aid for new RVers like us. Pam's Dad is a retired aircraft electrician and will come by tomorrow to look at it. The plan is to replace the neutral bar, the isolator backing, all burned wires, and 3 new circuit breakers (to make Pam happy).

Hoping to work on repairs soon and will keep everyone informed.

Julian
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