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Old 02-18-2016, 08:37 PM   #15
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What do you do to bring your Class A out of winter hibernation?

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Originally Posted by gasser 38 View Post
Gas or Diesel you should change engine and gen oil before storage not after. Combustion causes acid to collect in the oil if left for long periods oil bathes bearings and can cause them to etch as well as other parts.
Also add
Grease front end and drive shaft if equipped with fitting
Replace all batteries for remotes

Kind of interesting topic that this has turned into. I have always done the oil changes when I wake up my classic cars after a nice winters rest. I have a degree in automotive technology and work for a car company, but it has been many many years since I looked at the chemistry of oils and lubricants. Today I decided to check with our service engineering group, and was surprised by how opinionated this topic really is. It appears that there are so many factors involved that there is really no correct answer without understanding all the external factors. Some of the questions I was asked included; how was the vehicle drive - hot, dusty, towing, high humidity, low humidity, type of oil- synthetic our std weight, age/miles of the engine and the oil in it......at the end of the day, we all agreed that the only important thing is that the engine has fresh oil and filters before its first use. As for fuel filters.... Now that was a whole different ballgame.... Don't get me started..... Store full or empty, additives, winter grade fuels or summer grade.......ughhhhhh...... Lesson learned - do what makes you feel comfortable and never ask the engineers anything.....
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:43 PM   #16
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I'm in Houston Texas. Did it even get cold here yet??
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tpspuck View Post
Kind of interesting topic that this has turned into. I have always done the oil changes when I wake up my classic cars after a nice winters rest. I have a degree in automotive technology and work for a car company, but it has been many many years since I looked at the chemistry of oils and lubricants. Today I decided to check with our service engineering group, and was surprised by how opinionated this topic really is. It appears that there are so many factors involved that there is really no correct answer without understanding all the external factors. Some of the questions I was asked included; how was the vehicle drive - hot, dusty, towing, high humidity, low humidity, type of oil- synthetic our std weight, age/miles of the engine and the oil in it......at the end of the day, we all agreed that the only important thing is that the engine has fresh oil and filters before its first use. As for fuel filters.... Now that was a whole different ballgame.... Don't get me started..... Store full or empty, additives, winter grade fuels or summer grade.......ughhhhhh...... Lesson learned - do what makes you feel comfortable and never ask the engineers anything.....
I'm curious about what your opinions are concerning dry starts after a long hibernation VS pre-lube? That has always been a concern of mine. I was thinking you may have run across some information during your research, or already had thoughts about this.

Thanks.

Steve
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:20 PM   #18
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I live in Florida. I don't winterize...
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I'm in Houston Texas. Did it even get cold here yet??
You people need to stop...
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:54 PM   #19
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You people need to stop...
Sorry.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dix39 View Post
I'm curious about what your opinions are concerning dry starts after a long hibernation VS pre-lube? That has always been a concern of mine. I was thinking you may have run across some information during your research, or already had thoughts about this.

Thanks.

Steve
Oil viscosity is such that unless it is a fresh build (when you fresh build an engine you should always use a heavy weight oil on bearings (Cam and rod) and also the cyl walls get coated) that it should never really be a "dry start". Now days oil is so much better that engines will pretty much run without oil for a while without melting down as long as they had oil in them prior.... although I never want to test the theory.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:56 PM   #21
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Waking the coach up is not such a big deal to me. Keep it plugged up at the house, go in a couple of decent Saturdays a month and turn the heat on and catch a movie or a nap. I take it out for a 10-15 mile drive once a month with the generator under load. As soon as the freeze warnings have passed it is simply a matter of watering and washing it up.

As far as the clean oil dirty oil during storage, I like to change in the fall due to the parasitic properties in dirty oil. I use to buy used boats that had premature engine problems (granted they were gas) and I saw a lot of acidic pitting in rod, main, and cam bearings from storing with well used oil.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:18 PM   #22
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Still waiting for winter here in N. Texas...
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:21 PM   #23
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Well "Waking the coach up" takes about this long. Start coach set fast idle (after oil pressure is up) go out side stow the power cord, select gear release parking brake proceed.
Hey it was 79 today. I couldn't help my self
We are going to a rally on the 9th March and when we get back I will be doing my annual.
I went for a short run a couple of weeks ago about 125 miles because I could.
Bill
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