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Old 02-21-2014, 07:34 AM   #43
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Thank You for the picture. Quite an impressive system. Do you have any type of air filter on the vent to the tank? Atmospheric tanks (open vented tanks) are very susceptible to bacteria and algae growth, especially in warm water. When installing a whole house reverse osmosis system, we always have to install some type of recirculating sanitation system normally using Ozone to prevent bacteria growth. Did I misunderstand when you said "cost $200. Was it $200 for the install or did the system cost $200? I use a reverse osmosis system at the Kitchen sink with a separate faucet for pure water and a Kinetico dual tank non electric water softener I built into the coach with a large canister type carbon prefilter. At some campgrounds I have been in, that prefilter will plug in two weeks with sediment or oxidized iron, but normally I change it twice a year. Great system, but was considerable more than $200 and I am a Kinetico dealer. www.Kinetico.com, www.atlanticcoastwater.com
What would be your opinion on using UV instead of Ozone for the sanitation system?
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:51 AM   #44
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Good question. If you were going to breed a bacteria, you would want to have warm damp conditions. Where does mildew grow? Usually in the shower first. Warm damp conditions are ideal conditions for most bacteria.

There is no definite answer to how often, because air quality and conditions are not constant. But to be safe, I believe I would sanitize it monthly when in use.
Thanks! ... works for me !!
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #45
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sanitizing holding tank

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Give or take, in 85 degree weather, how frequently should a tank of water be drained, sanitized, and refilled (assuming campground water for refill) ?
Giving some more thought to your question, I believe I made some assumptions that were maybe incorrect? Are you using purified water in your holding tank and are you using your holding tank for all your water supply or do you hook use a direct connection most of the time. If you are using a direct connection and filling the holding tank occasionally with water provided from home or campgrounds, most all "public water supplies" (and that would include campgrounds) are required by state and federal laws to maintain a residual chlorine level in the water. Filling your tank with this water on a regular basis would help control bacteria if you are not filtering the chlorine from the water. If this is the case, you would not need to sanitize as often.

I see you are from Vero Beach. I live in Jupiter and my business territory covers from Vero to Hobe Sound.
Just traded in my 2005 HR Endeavor for a Tiffin Phaeton. Hope it serves me as well as the HR.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:16 AM   #46
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Giving some more thought to your question, I believe I made some assumptions that were maybe incorrect? Are you using purified water in your holding tank and are you using your holding tank for all your water supply or do you hook use a direct connection most of the time. If you are using a direct connection and filling the holding tank occasionally with water provided from home or campgrounds, most all "public water supplies" (and that would include campgrounds) are required by state and federal laws to maintain a residual chlorine level in the water. Filling your tank with this water on a regular basis would help control bacteria if you are not filtering the chlorine from the water. If this is the case, you would not need to sanitize as often.

I see you are from Vero Beach. I live in Jupiter and my business territory covers from Vero to Hobe Sound.
Just traded in my 2005 HR Endeavor for a Tiffin Phaeton. Hope it serves me as well as the HR.
Hey neighbor!

My question was kinda' generic. I use mostly campground (sometimes storage facility) water that is run thru a taste/particle filter for filling the tank. At a campground, I use the "city water" connection run thru a Watts regulator and the same taste/particle filter. I use bottled water for coffee and ice cubes (so it nearly always tastes the same regardless of location).

So, yes ... the piped water is chlorinated.

The "1 month sanitation" still works for me cuz, in my case, it's easy !!

Another good example of why you should mostly just drink martinis
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:19 AM   #47
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Could someone reccomend a good whole house 2x10 replacement filter?
Anyone?
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:37 AM   #48
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UV

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What would be your opinion on using UV instead of Ozone for the sanitation system?
UV is great. Very good at killing bacteria and viruses. The drawbacks would be that the water tends to get hot within the UV cylinder when it sits and if it is close to the faucet, it can get hot enough to burn. If it is in a remote location, it will cool down significantly enough to not be a problem. Also, UV has no residual. It only sanitizes the water that runs through it and not sanitize lines or tanks.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:41 AM   #49
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We have a Whirlpool stage 5 system with a separate tap.
The quality of water is the same no matter where we travel.
A big difference is for the dog. Landed in Yuma where the
water is very salty and met people with "sick" dogs. They
took them to the vets and were told to give them bottled
water or filtered water.
A line runs to the icemaker from the system also.
Filters are around $75/year.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:43 AM   #50
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Anyone?
Matrikx CTO
KX Matrikx +CTO/2 Carbon Block 32-250-125-975 Only $6.99
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:54 AM   #51
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Im looking for whos using what as far as at the fawcet filter. Is it worth getting a filter from exterior spigot to just into coach if I have a house filter on already? I'm not looking to go overboard cost wise.
Our coach came with ADC charcoal filter on drinking water and ice maker line. I added a canister type sediment filter outside to keep sand and other particles out ...normally use RVSED1 from Water Filter Replacement Cartridges Reverse Osmosis Membrane Filters. I do not use a charcoal filter outside because I want to keep the chlorine in my tank and lines.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:41 PM   #52
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UV is great. Very good at killing bacteria and viruses. The drawbacks would be that the water tends to get hot within the UV cylinder when it sits and if it is close to the faucet, it can get hot enough to burn. If it is in a remote location, it will cool down significantly enough to not be a problem. Also, UV has no residual. It only sanitizes the water that runs through it and not sanitize lines or tanks.
I've been considering a UV add on to my current system. I believe it's triggered to come on whenever the RO pump comes on.


To answer another question from Steve, the system can operate simply using the camp water pressure, but I added a 120psi booster pump and a pressure cutoff switch to my system. It's the 120psi that really kicks up the water production rate.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:46 PM   #53
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Anyone?
Been thinking about this one…It depends a bit on what you want. If for taste you want a charcoal type. If sediment is primarily what you want then there are several choices. There are spun filters, string filters and pleated filters, paper and synthetic. My MH manufacturer recommends 5 micron for sediment, I tried 10 and had to take sand out of my washing machine filter. I am told some spun filters hjave little dept of filtration because as soon as the outside is plugged water cannot penetrate to the inside.

I like the string filters and bought these.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:55 PM   #54
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Thank You for the picture.Did I misunderstand when you said "cost $200. Was it $200 for the install or did the system cost $200?
I use a reverse osmosis system at the Kitchen sink with a separate faucet for pure water and a Kinetico dual tank non electric water softener I built into the coach with a large canister type carbon prefilter. At some campgrounds I have been in, that prefilter will plug in two weeks with sediment or oxidized iron, but normally I change it twice a year. Great system, but was considerable more than $200 and I am a Kinetico dealer. www.Kinetico.com, www.atlanticcoastwater.com

The original system (3 prefilters and one RO membrane canister, hoses and fittings) was about $200. Then I added the tank float, the boost pump and a second RO membrane. That was another about $250. I did the install myself. All the parts were purchased from RVwaterfilterstore.com.
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