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Old 10-16-2015, 09:06 AM   #43
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There is a way to simplify what is going on with your batteries. This is the DC side that you may not be familiar with. The AC side of things is basically the same as in your house.

Have someone install a battery meter. This will let you know if everything is working. It's like having a smart fuel gauge for your DC side of things. This let's you know that the rv alternator, converter are charging the batteries and also let's you know what is going out of the batteries.

Here is an example of what I think you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Bogart-Enginee.../dp/B00A6XGJSS
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:08 AM   #44
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Another important information to know is that you should turn off (switch to off) the bigger appliances (AC, Washing machine, Coffee maker, etc) before you start the Inverter or before you start the generator or before you plug the shore power.

If you don't, the "Transfer switch solenoid" make a spark between the contactors. They will wear prematurely. If you are careful, the solenoid could last for 50 years.

I just changed my solenoid.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:35 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by 1mainiac View Post
Most inverters will go into bypass mode when plugged in. So you really don't have to turn them off except for when not using the unit. When on and plugged in the panel will give you battery voltage on the read out.
You are correct and the outlet powered by the inverter can be used to monitor your shore power.

It is also used when dry docking at Walmart. Most TV's run off it.

If anyone reading this thread has a residential refrigerator the inverter is needed all the time. It serves several functions. It supplies power to the refrigerator when traveling or dry docking and, as in my case, supplements up to 18A of power when an overload occurs when on 30A service.

The OP said their inverter is a 2800 watt size. I suspect it runs a lot more than a outlet and tv. I would guess that the inverter supplies power to the microwave when boon docking.

Inverters are like lolly pops. They come in many flavors and sizes. A 600 watt modified sine wave inverter will not do the same thing as a 3000 watt true sine wave unit will.

Back to basics: Charge your batteries. Disconnect power. Find out what is not working. Turn on the inverter. See what is working. Question answered and it does not take a degree in power grid to figure it out.

Happy trails,

Rick Y
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:23 PM   #46
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What does the inverter do?

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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Please tell us what "walk-thru/demo" you did?

Our coach has a 2800 watt true sine wave inverter. We also have the French door residential refrigerator. The 6 AGM batteries supply power to the inverter to give the refrigerator the 120VAC it needs while we travel or dry dock. When we are on 30A service the inverter will give us about an 18A supplement boost if we draw too much power from the pedestal. When the batteries need charging and we are on shore power, or if the inverter calls the generator into action, the inverter charges the batteries.

The guy who conducted your tour proves that ignorance is not bliss.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

Um, you have two sources of 120v powered at same time? You don't have a transfer switch? You have a transfer switch but it doesn't work? You by passed the transfer switch? Your inverter charges your batteries? None of this sounds correct. So how do you do this? Wire the inverter cubits separate?
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:40 PM   #47
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Um, you have two sources of 120v powered at same time? You don't have a transfer switch? You have a transfer switch but it doesn't work? You by passed the transfer switch? Your inverter charges your batteries? None of this sounds correct. So how do you do this? Wire the inverter cubits separate?
The inverter is wired after the transfer switch. If it senses 120 v from shore or generator, it shuts off the inverter function and just passes the power through. If no 120 v is detected, it switches on, taking power from the batteries, and provides 120 v to the refrigerator and what ever else is connected to it. If it's an inverter/charger, it charges the batteries and provides 12 v power for the coach when 120 v is sensed from the transfer switch.
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:09 PM   #48
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What does the inverter do?

Nice, but that is not what he said. Extra 18 amps? The ignorance comment?
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:34 PM   #49
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Nice, but that is not what he said. Extra 18 amps? The ignorance comment?

No. There is a magnum inverter which can supplement shore power with extra amps from the battery bank. It does this on a temporary basis obviously. Most useful if you are on 20 or 30 amp shore power, and want to run the microwave or some other higher load device that shore power alone can't support.
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:36 PM   #50
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Nice, but that is not what he said. Extra 18 amps? The ignorance comment?
In theory I can see how but I also see the gotcha.

There are really two transfer switches with the single unit inverter chargers. the usual one for the generator/landline function and a second one in the inverter for Line/Inverter. If there is a single circuit to say, the refrigerator, kitchen socket, and charging station fed through the inverter that can switch from converter charging the battery to inverter feeding the dedicated circuit while the rest of the unit runs off shore or generator power. The gotcha is that the batteries are now being drained instead of charged. That would add capacity if the A/C and microwave were running while somebody kicked on a big hair dryer and coffee maker. It could work but I would rather see enforced power management and charged batteries. ;-)
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:40 PM   #51
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Here it is

http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/pro...verter-charger

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Old 10-19-2015, 06:41 PM   #52
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No. There is a magnum inverter which can supplement shore power with extra amps from the battery bank. It does this on a temporary basis obviously. Most useful if you are on 20 or 30 amp shore power, and want to run the microwave or some other higher load device that shore power alone can't support.

I just read the specs. Vitron ?? Also makes one. Interesting, price is too $2,000. When it's hot I worry about heat from an inverter now. With an inverter charger I would worry more. With an inverter charger hybrid omg! We saw a lot of 100 to 105+ this summer. Then again going above 6,000' works wonders.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:37 AM   #53
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FWIW I get the concept of making AC to feed back. It is done with solar panels feeding the AC grid among other uses.

What I cannot figure out is how they can do it in a normal AC line connected to the grid. You would be feeding the world. Even factoring in their "hybrid technology allowing it to run larger loads from smaller generators" leaves the question of how it knows where the power is coming from or going to without a dedicated circuit it can isolate from the power feed. Otherwise it tries to feed the country.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:43 AM   #54
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Nice, but that is not what he said. Extra 18 amps? The ignorance comment?
Yes. The extra 18 amps is when my coach is on 30 amp service. When on 50 amp service I have 100 amps total available because both L1 and L2 are hot and referenced to neutral. On 30 amp service the coach only see 120 VAC at 30 amps on L1 to neutral.

The inverter is wired to a sub-panel. When on 50 A the internal transfer switch passes the shore feed directly to the sub-panel. On 30 A this is also true until an overload occurs. The Energy Management System of the coach activates the inverter to provide 120 V to the sub-panel, up to 23 amps in my case, though I have never seen it feed that much.

The transfer switch on the power cord to the pedestal is to switch from coach supplied power, ie generator, to the shore power. In my case, if I loose the shore power for an extended period of time the generator will start to recharge the batteries the inverter has been using to supply essential power to the refrigerator and a few other items. If my rig calls for the A/C or heat pump to come on during the no shore service period (or when boon docking) the generator will start and then shut down when the function that called into service is satisfied.

Where is the ignorance to be placed here?

Happy trails,

Rick Y
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #55
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Yes. The extra 18 amps is when my coach is on 30 amp service. When on 50 amp service I have 100 amps total available because both L1 and L2 are hot and referenced to neutral. On 30 amp service the coach only see 120 VAC at 30 amps on L1 to neutral.

The inverter is wired to a sub-panel. When on 50 A the internal transfer switch passes the shore feed directly to the sub-panel. On 30 A this is also true until an overload occurs. The Energy Management System of the coach activates the inverter to provide 120 V to the sub-panel, up to 23 amps in my case, though I have never seen it feed that much.

The transfer switch on the power cord to the pedestal is to switch from coach supplied power, ie generator, to the shore power. In my case, if I loose the shore power for an extended period of time the generator will start to recharge the batteries the inverter has been using to supply essential power to the refrigerator and a few other items. If my rig calls for the A/C or heat pump to come on during the no shore service period (or when boon docking) the generator will start and then shut down when the function that called into service is satisfied.

Where is the ignorance to be placed here?

Happy trails,

Rick Y
My concern is the statement highlighted in red. How are you connected to 30 amp service? Most adaptors or pigtails to plug in a 50 amp shore cord to a 30 amp outlet distribute the 30 amps across both L1 and L2 since half the RV would be without power if only one leg was powered. Do you have a special adaptor?

I wouldn't want folks to read your post and think that all 30 to 50 amp adaptors leave one leg of the 50 amp service unconnected.
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:06 AM   #56
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My, Ricky, you sure do like to use the word ignorance don't you?

Can you make a wiring diagram I.e. a circuit diagram of what you are talking about please. If your extra amperage is fed to both legs please show the feedback prevention device/circuit.

If you just isolate l1 and l2 no need.
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