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Old 11-11-2011, 03:08 PM   #15
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Crawled under the beast

And lubed all the grease fittings with mobil one synthetic it was my lucky day the zirk fittings on the drive line were in the 6 o' clock position.

2005 Itasca 33V Sunrise 8.1 Workhorse W-20
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:15 PM   #16
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Installed Horst Miricle probes for Black & Grey tanks.

Del & Lori 2007 Diplomat 40PDQ - 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. M&G brake system
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:03 PM   #17
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Good for You Guys calico...that sounds fantastic, I am rebuilding our warer pump, pin hole in the 5 port diaphram, then loading up for Tennessee, and on to Florida for a couple weeks! Winterize when we return..........that'll be a downer.
John and Vicki,2004 Winne Vectra 350 Cummins, 10k lb Blu Ox tow bar , 04 Dodge Ram 1500 4wd toad
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:03 PM   #18
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Just got ours set for winter (put the pink stuff it) broke the city water valve in the process but added a switch to over ride the stairs from opening when the door is opened. We are on our third set of stairs...
a bad day camping is still better than a good day working.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:51 AM   #19
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This question has received over 12,000 posts on RV.Net and still gets posts daily.

Seems to have a life of its own!
1995 CC Magna #5280
C8.3L 300hp Cummins, 31,000lbs
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:28 PM   #20
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We're sitting in Quartzsite BLM chasing a chipmunk that got into our basement while we were in Valley of Fire.
We removed everything from the bays, but couldn't find him/her anywhere. Tomorrow, I'll run into Blythe to buy a few mouse traps for the job ....... Dave
On The Road since 11/19/05 And Lovin It
2006 Mountain Aire 3778 Worhorse W-24
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:05 AM   #21
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Debated whether or not to put water into the winterized coach for an upcoming 6 day trip to Arizona.

I can always load bottles of water and use the campground facilities, but having water on board is so convenient. But re-winterizing on return is such a hassle in the cold...
Michael (Home base Northern CO)
USED TO HAVE; 03 Alpine 40MDTS Now RVless
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:25 PM   #22
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Installed a solar fan and vent cover on our refrigerator and wired the RV outlet on the motor home shed.
Ross Murphy
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:17 PM   #23
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Flushed out my hot water tank today. Going to install a new 42" flat screen up front and try to fit a 32" flat screen in the bedroom over the holiday weekend. If I am successful I will look at changing out my sound system over the x-mas break.

Mike Gosselin
2007 Fleetwood Discovery 39S
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:40 PM   #24
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Exciting day!! Emptied and flushed the black and grey tanks. Filled the fresh water tank. Unstopped the drain hose from the fridge. Should I mention the shower I took when I unstopped the hose. All that wore me out so now I'm going to take a nap.
Travel well, travel safe,
2006 Tiffin Phaeton - 2011 Cadillac SRX
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:23 PM   #25
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I replaced the pump on my leveling sustem
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:48 PM   #26
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Built a tire inflator to use with the coaches onboard compressor, no need to carry a separate compressor anymore. This will work on any coach with an air compressor. My compressor will develop 130 psi which is more than enough for the 110 psi i run in the front tires.

I was able to top off the rear duals in one compressor cycle. Bleed the system below 90 psi and topped off the front tires. It took about 10 minutes total, then another 10 minutes experimenting with different lock on air chucks.

Total cost $71.00 not including the digital tire inflator, I had it laying around the garage. I think it was $60.00 when I bought it from Snap-On. You can buy a nice inflator for under $30.00.

Stores in less space than the pancake compressor did no where near the weight of a compressor.

1) I start with an air filter connected to the coaches air outlet,
2) then 50' of 1/4" poly hose (very small when rolled up),
3) then to an in-line bleeder valve (not pictured), this allows me to bleed the system below 90 psi to cause the compressor to kick on if needed. This is simpler than having the DW pump the breaks to bleed the system down. THis is necessary if the system pressure falls below desired tire pressure. If this happens the tire with greater pressure will back flow to the compressor, causing the tire to lose pressure
4) then to a pressure gauge that allows me to monitor the coaches air pressure, I watch this gauge to let me know when there is sufficient pressure to inflate the tire,
5) digital tire inflator,
6) then 2nd inline bleeder (not pictured), this allows me to let air out of the tire should I miss my mark and over inflate,
7) 12' of lead to allow me to stand a safe distance 12' back along side the coach,
8) swivel, so when I am 12' away the pull on the hose turns 90 degrees to reduce strain on the lock on air chuck,
9) lock on air chuck with open check, an open check is important as it allows air in the tire to flow back to the inflator gauge to produce a tire pressure reading.

Here os the video link where I got the idea
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US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:27 AM   #27
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Installed a Wineguard Traveler SK3005 HD.
Del & Lori 2007 Diplomat 40PDQ - 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. M&G brake system
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:49 PM   #28
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Based on our shopping list, at the January Tampa Super Show. We'll pass $20K of installed after market necessities. Not bad for 6 years.

2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
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