Community Forums

Dav L · 08-16-2018, 11:03 PM

"That is probably the main reason I wont switch to series parallel 6 volt batteries. Would have been there hours"

My two 12 volt engine batteries and four 6 volt chassis batteries are in the same tray. If that would happen to me, worse case is to disconnect chassis, and move the engine battery leads to the + of the in series 6 volts and the - at the other end (to get 12volts). No way would I put 12 volt batteries in as chassis for longevity reasons.

rgvtexan · 08-16-2018, 11:09 PM

Maybe OT. But today I replaced the seals and bearings in the intermediate housing of the IO on my boat. It is a recreational vehicle after all!

iamblum · 08-17-2018, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

"That is probably the main reason I wont switch to series parallel 6 volt batteries. Would have been there hours"

My two 12 volt engine batteries and four 6 volt chassis batteries are in the same tray. If that would happen to me, worse case is to disconnect chassis, and move the engine battery leads to the + of the in series 6 volts and the - at the other end (to get 12volts). No way would I put 12 volt batteries in as chassis for longevity reasons.

I guess I should have said I wouldn't change to 6 volt on this coach. If the bats were all in the same tray or compartment, then it would be a no brainer in my opinion

twinboat · 08-17-2018, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamblum

I guess I should have said I wouldn't change to 6 volt on this coach. If the bats were all in the same tray or compartment, then it would be a no brainer in my opinion

The boost switch will connect the house to the chassis. Get that to stay on and no need to swap batteries.

You can even disconnect the shorted chassis battery, the boost cables are sized for engine starting.

vito.a · 08-17-2018, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamblum

That is probably the main reason I wont switch to series parallel 6 volt batteries. Would have been there hours I'm sure waiting for someone to help.

I've been there. All you need is an inexpensive set of jumper cables and jump the chassis battery to the house battery. This works with 6V house batteries wired in series also.

PaulAchuff · 08-17-2018, 10:36 AM

Our 1985 Fleetwood is a constant project so I've replaced the toilet, the water heater, the generator, the converter (now the wiring is all up to code. Yay!), the furnace and the refrigerator with all new components. Next is a new awning and a paint job for our restored baby.

dix39 · 08-17-2018, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

The boost switch will connect the house to the chassis. Get that to stay on and no need to swap batteries.

You can even disconnect the shorted chassis battery, the boost cables are sized for engine starting.

Another good reason would be to alleviate the situation we found ourselves in on the way back to OR after picking up our "new to us" Monaco in Mesa, AZ.

The alternator failed somewhere before Beatty, NV and just past Beatty the 3060 Allison stopped working. After waiting 3 days for the wrong alternator to arrive we ran 6ga wire from the chassis batt. to the house batts. and ran the gen. for the remaining 800 miles home. Having a relay connection would have been much simpler and easier.

Steve

ernest917 · 08-17-2018, 01:18 PM

Forest River Berkshire
Freightliner chassis

- new in-dash radio
- new rear-view camera
- new shocks
- 3 new roof vent covers

Kickenrock · 08-17-2018, 07:59 PM

Since I took my MH out of storage in the spring I have:
Changed the engine oil and filter
Drained and replaced the engine coolant
Cleaned and re-oiled my K&N air filter
Removed and checked a couple of my spark plugs-still look good
Removed the old brake fluid from the master cylinder
Refilled with new DOT3 brake fluid.
Removed all the wheels and bled all the brakes
(with an air powered vacuum bleeder--- easy)
Replaced the Bilstein shocks with Konis (big improvement)
Installed 6 new Michelin XRV tires.
Changed the tires on my Toad
Bled the brakes on the Toad.
Tightened up the bolts on the Toad's baseplate.
Cleaned an re-oiled my Blue Ox tow bar.
Then over 3 days we drove 1300+ KM (807 MI) to Lancaster in eastern Ontario.
Spent 17 wonderful days at Lancaster Family Resort Campground.
While we were there had the condenser fan replaced on our basement air conditioner.
Did a couple of days flying a Cessna 172.
Lost the starting motor in the Toad, had that replaced.
Then spent 3 days driving back home to Labrador.
Only to discover upon returning that while being towed the front differential mounting bracket broke, causing the front drive shaft to break a large hole in the side of the transmission base pan. Losing all the fluid.
Now that we are home I now have more work to do.

Busy summer.

Clayobx · 08-18-2018, 07:34 AM

No kiddin!

iamblum · 08-18-2018, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dix39

Another good reason would be to alleviate the situation we found ourselves in on the way back to OR after picking up our "new to us" Monaco in Mesa, AZ.

The alternator failed somewhere before Beatty, NV and just past Beatty the 3060 Allison stopped working. After waiting 3 days for the wrong alternator to arrive we ran 6ga wire from the chassis batt. to the house batts. and ran the gen. for the remaining 800 miles home. Having a relay connection would have been much simpler and easier.

Steve

Maybe it's an Oregon/ Nevada thing. I was on my way home from Medford Oregon when it happened[emoji85]

dix39 · 08-18-2018, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamblum

Maybe it's an Oregon/ Nevada thing. I was on my way home from Medford Oregon when it happened[emoji85]

Let's hope not, we may do it again sometime. We were going to Phoenix, about 4 miles S of Medford. The good thing is that we both made it home OK.

Steve

jbayone · 08-18-2018, 05:35 PM

If the battery has a shorted cell, you really want/need to get it out of the circuit, so just jumping it or leaving the boost switch on isn't a good option IMHO

theBeav · 08-18-2018, 05:54 PM

Finally had a chance to get a full PM inspection.

Lube, Oil, and filters replaced. The rest of the chassis inspected. Mostly good news.

Identified that the drag link should be replaced. A slight amount of give when checked, indicating a bit of wear from some contamination in the ball joint. The boot was near completely gone.

Some small micro-cracking in the PTO feeder tube, and a leaking PTO shaft seal.

Mechanic was extremely complimentary about the coach, saying that it was in extremely good condition given it's age, and not to worry about the drag link or PTO feeder tube until we get back to Texas, from New England.

On the other hand, being a noobie, I was able to get a very good education about the underside of my coach. The shop told me that I could be under the coach with the mechanic the whole time that it was on the lift. I was able to identify many things about the coach that I was wondering about, and will now be able to do most of the maintenance myself.