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Old 10-16-2019, 12:10 AM   #1023
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Power Gear hydraulic leveling system. 19 year old motor rusted up, bad noises coming from the pump.
Motor sits on a plate with pump below in the fluid reservoir. You can see the bearing, it wouldn't turn.
Replaced the motor, bearing, seal on the pump shaft and cleaned up the plate.
On a gasser all this sits behind the front grill, everything gets wet driving in the rain.
Now it is the quietest it has ever been.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:07 AM   #1024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudiDudi View Post
Just noticed the fridge was at 45 deg and freezer at 21. No lights on the control panel.

Luckily, I had an older spare dinosaur board, swapped it in, and now it's working.

Found the 5v fuse blown on the old board. Tomorrow, I'll replace the fuse, put the board back in and see if the old board is actually good. It would be nice to know just why the fuse blew though. That board was new a year ago so maybe under warranty still.

As a backup, I could have removed all the water and beer from the outside 3.3cuft fridge and put the fridge stuff in that and the freezer stuff in the freezer in the shed. Beats using an ice chest and dry ice.
Maybe I'm being dense here, but what's wrong with those temperatures? Seems close to where it should be to me. Much colder in the fridge and your lettuce will wilt.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:06 AM   #1025
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Originally Posted by Hit_the_Rhod View Post
Maybe I'm being dense here, but what's wrong with those temperatures? Seems close to where it should be to me. Much colder in the fridge and your lettuce will wilt.

This morning the freezer is at -4 and the fridge at 37. Pretty happy the 18 year old fridge still works that good in the Arizona heat. Like to keep the fridge under 40 and the freezer below 5
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:48 AM   #1026
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Ive replace both of the thermostats Still no heat
Not much to go on...There is in most RV water heaters, a thermal fuse. It's under the outside access plate. It's covered with a black sleeve. A little bullet shaped device that fails seemingly at random and shuts down the WH. It's obvious when you try to ohm it out. It should read zero but when bad will read 1. Or infinity depending on meter.

I believe the output wire from it is purple and goes to a 1/4" terminal on the ESI board. Check for 12 volt there. If it's zero volt, the thermal fuse is bad.
The printing on the fuse give enough info to google it. Amazon and eBay carry them. So do most electrical supply places. So do RV stores.

This all assumes you usually try to heat your water with propane. But if the thermal fuse is bad, some ESI control boards will shut off the electric element relay too.
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:13 PM   #1027
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This is also an update to my Battery Disconnect thread.

So I had shut off my Batteries by pressing the battery disconnect switches. I thought I had turned them back on but a few days later I found my RV was no crank, no start, barely any battery juice, no aux at all.

So I recharged engine battery. Still no help.

There was alot of corrosion so the maintenance I did was to thoroughly clean the battery posts and the cables.

I used contact cleaner and a brush to remove the corrosion from the cable terminals and the posts. Worked very well. Then I applied CPC to all exposed metal to help slow new corrosion until I replace the battery. Also used electrical tape on the cable insulation to help protect them as they had some nicks here and there.

Cleaned & CPC'd all the hardware for the cables and reinstalled them nice and snug.

Got in the driver seat and it started. Yeah for basic maintenance!!

As I was doing this, I found a reason or potential reason for my original issue. Ill post it on another thread.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-16-2019, 01:56 PM   #1028
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Originally Posted by GMoore View Post
Power Gear hydraulic leveling system. 19 year old motor rusted up, bad noises coming from the pump.
Motor sits on a plate with pump below in the fluid reservoir. You can see the bearing, it wouldn't turn.
Replaced the motor, bearing, seal on the pump shaft and cleaned up the plate.
On a gasser all this sits behind the front grill, everything gets wet driving in the rain.
Now it is the quietest it has ever been.
Mine pump etc. is midship by my genset.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:51 PM   #1029
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Just installed qty 2 new Group 31 chassis batteries. Now working on air dryer that is purging too frequently. Have replaced the dryer filter and rebuilt the lower end (valves) with Haldex kit. Will start looking for / chasing leaks at this point. This rig has pretty much been my retirement project for a year or so. Keeps me broke and out of trouble. ;-)
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:17 AM   #1030
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Just installed qty 2 new Group 31 chassis batteries. Now working on air dryer that is purging too frequently. Have replaced the dryer filter and rebuilt the lower end (valves) with Haldex kit. Will start looking for / chasing leaks at this point. This rig has pretty much been my retirement project for a year or so. Keeps me broke and out of trouble. ;-)
Air dryer cycling issues are almost never caused by the air dryer. Every time the compressor unloads the dryer purges. Find out why the system won't hold pressure and your cycling issue will be cured.
OTOH, rebuilding the dryer can't hurt anything.
If you don't find an external leak start testing valves.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:20 PM   #1031
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Many times the leaks are in the 1/4 " lines between the dryer, governor and wet tank. If the governor is remote mounted, there is one more line to check.

The air pressure gauges don't monitor the wet tank, so the leak could be undetected while in the cab.

In a few cases, I've temporarily installed a air gauge in the drain valve port of the wet tank to check the lines for leaks.

The wet tank will be one end of the longer air tank with 2 drains. Look for the seam around it. The wet tank will be the shorter section.
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Old 10-17-2019, 10:42 PM   #1032
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Ran a charge line for my toad. New to me MH did not have one. Now I have a 10 amp charge line to keep the toad happy and charged.
Leave tomorrow for North Carolina , Maggie Valley here we come.

Terry & Pat
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Old 10-18-2019, 09:23 PM   #1033
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Changed out the water filter in the whole house canister mounted in the wet bay and installed a yellow LED in the front door assist handle. It's a little brighter than the standard white one but looks much better in person that the photos show. The reflection in the paint is more how the handle glows a nice rich yellow. Nice touch to go with the yellow porch lights. Found that these .75" LEDs fit nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 10-19-2019, 08:18 PM   #1034
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As we all know these beasts are worse than the kids or the DW and need lots of attention. Seems like it's always asking me to bring it home for the weekend to "give" it some tlc. So I replaced the flush valve on the thereford Aqua magic IV, replaced the Kwikee step controller, 3 12 volt house batteries, circuit board for the Atwood water heater and next is replacing the slide topper material. Still need to research a bit more before doing that 1. What have you don't lately?
DH replaced the old Magnetek 6345 converter/charger with a new WFCO 9845 model, then continued tearing out the old carpet. I'm just the cleanup crew so I carried the old carpet out front and tossed it over the fence and then into the trash can! Happy to say that the house batteries are showing a full charge (sans battery charger) for the first time, and the converter/charger fan actually turns on and off. Second coat of Dicor applied over new roof membrane - looks great! Delam repair on tap but not until the floor is done and we sort out whether to put together our own kit or buy one from delamrepair.com. I want to go camping soon (before winter)!
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:56 PM   #1035
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Just installed qty 2 new Group 31 chassis batteries. Now working on air dryer that is purging too frequently. Have replaced the dryer filter and rebuilt the lower end (valves) with Haldex kit. Will start looking for / chasing leaks at this point. This rig has pretty much been my retirement project for a year or so. Keeps me broke and out of trouble. ;-)
I just went through this process. The first thing i would recommend is to air it up and listen, if you don't hear anything obvious i would look up the brake tests that should be done pre trip, it gives you a guideline as to how much pressure the system should lose doing standard tests. It will give you an idea if the brake chambers are the issue. Otherwise you need a good old bottle of soap water and start hunting. Its helpful to understand how the system works, i will not go into it here but you can find all this on the internet. there are relays front and rear that control the front and rear brakes. I just went through this, I had a leaking leveling valve.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:06 PM   #1036
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Changed water heater check valve yesterday (no small tas) and starter on engine today. Also lubed the chassis. I think shes ready for the road, now.
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