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Old 06-09-2015, 07:52 AM   #15
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Another reason to use the Amp-L-Start or Trik-L-Start over a 110/120V charger is that for those who have enough solar installed and are dry camping, your chassis batteries will remain fully charged even when not plugged in.....
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:02 PM   #16
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So, as I am still in my 'rookie year' of class a ownership, one little detail I didnt realize is using the 'battery boost' to tie house and coach batteries requires some period of time to create enough boost for the house batteries to balance with the weak coach batteries. I mistakenly thought that just pressing the rocker switch and turning the key was my solution. When THAT didn't work, I jumped the coach off my p/u. They say we are all supposed to be life-long learners - I can certainly say owning a class a DP is helping me achieve that goal!
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:15 PM   #17
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my fridge is connected to chassis battery. if that is your case, when you were using fridge on propane, the battery got drained.
i connected chassis battery to my coach batteries, with a diode allowing current to flow from coach batteries to chassis battery only. my coach batteries is connected with 1200w solar system at 13.2v floating.
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwannabe View Post
So, as I am still in my 'rookie year' of class a ownership, one little detail I didnt realize is using the 'battery boost' to tie house and coach batteries requires some period of time to create enough boost for the house batteries to balance with the weak coach batteries. I mistakenly thought that just pressing the rocker switch and turning the key was my solution. When THAT didn't work, I jumped the coach off my p/u. They say we are all supposed to be life-long learners - I can certainly say owning a class a DP is helping me achieve that goal!
If you have to using the boost switch regularly, you need to see why the chassis batteries are low in voltage. Using the boost switch is really not good for either set of batteries, and should treated as an emergency fix, not a normal operating procedure.

What took place prior to this that caused the chassis batteries to be low?
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:48 AM   #19
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A few comments
1: You should have a switch on the dash, May be labeled any of the following: Aux Start, Emergency Start, BOOST (and I'm sure someone can come up with another label)

What is it? Why it's a built in JUMP STARTER.. Yup, press and hold for like 30 seconds.. Relalse for 30 seconds, Press and hold while you start RV.

2: Some RV's charge the chassis battery off hose. Some do not. If yours does not google Trick-L-Start (I think covered above)

3: If the battery was dead in a week or two.. Good chance it needs replacement IF IT WAS DEAD.. should last at least a couple months.

4: On my coach in the nine years the chassis battery lived I had 4 occasions where I had to use that Emergency Start button (how it is labeled on my coach)( The first 3 times when I tested the battery it passed with flying colors.. The terminals needed cleaning... Turns out the body builder used the WRONG type of connector at the battery leading to excessive corrosion. The 4th time the battery failed test and was replaced. So was the connector.
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:51 AM   #20
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I bought one of those little battery maintainer thingys because our chassis batteries didn't seem to be maintained whilst parked. (even tho the manual says it does provide charging while parked and hooked up to shore power) Maybe,I,too, have a blown fuse somewhere!

But..I was curious to why one couldnt simply run a small jump wire from the POS post of a coach battery to a POS post of the chassis battery to provide charging?
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Old 07-15-2015, 03:31 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TXwannabe View Post
So, as I am still in my 'rookie year' of class a ownership, one little detail I didnt realize is using the 'battery boost' to tie house and coach batteries requires some period of time to create enough boost for the house batteries to balance with the weak coach batteries. I mistakenly thought that just pressing the rocker switch and turning the key was my solution. When THAT didn't work, I jumped the coach off my p/u. They say we are all supposed to be life-long learners - I can certainly say owning a class a DP is helping me achieve that goal!
The few times that my chassis batteries were dead on our 03 Phaeton, I just pushed the Aux Start switch and started the engine. After I removed the battery tender that came with the MH and added a trick-L-start, no more dead battery. One of the first things I did with our current coach was to replace the battery tender, (which can drain the chassis battery when stored if the fuse is not removed) with an Amp-L-Start. That along with 640 watts of solar power on the roof ensures no more dead batteries.
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