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Old 01-17-2014, 06:58 PM   #43
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Prevost. Purpose built with fully integrated shell and millions of real road miles. Wonderful ride and capable of 50,000 pounds!

My last coach, a quad slide Beaver, was on a Roadmaster RR10 chassis. My only complaint on that chassis is that Roadmaster, at least in 2008, did not do an all axle alignment or true the drive axle after welding suspension components.

I'm amazed it took that long for Prevost to show up.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:11 PM   #44
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My 99 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 37WDS has the freightliner chassis. Does this chassis have any other designation or model number other than freigtliner.

Any comments on this on would be great.

It turns fantastic and even big rigs can't upset it as they blow by. I was really pleased to have that freight train feel. I have the smaller 5.9l Cummins that sure is no slacker for most roads.

She's an older chassis and I do have some squeeks and creaks, especially in very cold weather. Still, very happy with what I have for what I paid...
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:43 AM   #45
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a few more thoughts

I'd suggested exercising caution regarding the Tiffin chassis. I prviously owned an '08 40 ft Allegro Bus. The chassis was overloaded, particularly the front axle. It would drop fully during the rise of a bump and then sharply bottom out. I traded it in for an '09 Monaco Sig after 7 months and 10,000 miles.

The Monaco Signature, Executive, Dynasty are good up through '09. Yes, there were a few pre-bankruptcy coaches sold as '09s. They also have air leveling, thus eliminating the concern about torquing the frame while using the jacks.

Finally, I'd recommend buying a coach with a tag axle. This greatly improves directional stability in cross-winds.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:04 AM   #46
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I have been reading all your wisdom on this issue.It has helped a lot as we have never owned a MH and will be doing full time.Their is a lot of info to process we have looked at several slightly used 2009 up with low miles 40' is a must for us.We have looked at several tiffin's.country coach,and a newmar.
Someone said something about dry camping.We plan doing our share of this,big bent several other areas.Is there any special things we need to look for in a coach for dry camping as far as leveling.We will always look for as level spot as possible.Take something for the jacks to sit on?
Has anyone ever boon docked in the big bend area,or public land?
Thank everyone .Tim
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:11 AM   #47
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I can add to the Roadmaster chassis discussion: At the end of 1997 I bought a new Windsor with the main purpose to pull my 24' enclosed car hauler trailer. Little did I know at the time was it was rated to pull 5,000 lb. ( way under the wt. of classic and trailer.) When I discovered this the dealer said " we will just reinforce your hitch". It wasn't long before I knew something was wrong. The coach was all over the road, almost to the point of being too dangerous to drive. Cross winds were killers too ! I confronted Monaco about this and they told me I needed a 1998 Windsor which was rated for 10,000 towing. ....Nasty story , but in the end I traded back the 97 for a 98 which was 2 ft longer, no slide, but a much better tow vehicle. Bottom line here is not ALL Roadmaster chassis are equal , even before the big change in 09. The handling was like night and day different. So yes chassis do make a difference whatever make you by. My thoughts are , pick the chassis first, then the body that's built on it!
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:37 AM   #48
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I would take the information you get on forums with a grain of salt. Most are one persons opinion and limited experience. It was stated above to use caution when considering the Tiffin chassis. I had an 03 40' Phaeton (freightliner chassis) and a 2011 40' Phaeton on the Powerglide chassis. The Powerglide (Tiffins chassis) gave a slightly better ride, but neither of them bottomed out in the front. Our current Tiffin has a tag axle with IFS and is the best ride we have ever had.

Like I said in an earlier response, pick the floor plan and options that are important to you and buy it. Any chassis will do the job well.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:26 AM   #49
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I agree that in today's market, any chassis will do the job well. Not everyone has the same taste. Some like a soft ride which can mean softer handling control. Some like to have tight handling control which can mean a stiffer ride.

There are some that will say, 'Don't give the choice of chassis a thought. Just find the floor plan you like, and you're good to go.'

There are others that will say, 'Don't give the floor plan a thought. Just find the chassis that handles and rides the way you want, and you're good to go.'

Because I do most of the driving, I've always held the opinion that the first thing I need to do is determine which chassis I want to drive. After establishing that, my wife and I need to decide which floor plan we want.

JMHO

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Old 01-19-2014, 10:55 AM   #50
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Someone said something about dry camping.We plan doing our share of this,big bent several other areas.Is there any special things we need to look for in a coach for dry camping as far as leveling.We will always look for as level spot as possible.Take something for the jacks to sit on?.Tim
I use wooden pads under the jacks if the situation calls for it. I made them up from 2 X 12 pressure treated lumber. I cut 12 X 12 squares and sandwiched two of them together, running the grain at 90 degrees to each other. Then screwed them together with countersunk lag bolts. The are very strong and help when levelling on a soft surface. also they will add to the jack travel if you need that.

Better than jacks in many cases is air levelling. If you can find a coach with air levelling it is a big advantage. Much easier to use than jacks, doesn't twist the frame, and works well on relatively soft surfaces, which jacks do not. But I am told that the air levelling systems do not have as much lift range than jacks do. There are coaches out there that have both air and jack levelling, which would be ideal.
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:58 PM   #51
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RV Chasis

I was looking at a Bounder and I see Fleetwood makes their own chasis with a Chevy 8.1 Vortec. Anyone have experience with these?
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:38 PM   #52
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I don't know who provides the front and rear suspension clips for the Fleetwood Bounder.

On their website, Fleetwood refer to their Power Platform, but I don't think that includes the front and rear suspension clips. I think Fleetwood buys the front and rear suspension clips, and then huck bolts them onto their own middle section, on the Bounder they called the Power Platform.

Jim
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:28 PM   #53
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I would take the information you get on forums with a grain of salt. Most are one persons opinion and limited experience. It was stated above to use caution when considering the Tiffin chassis. I had an 03 40' Phaeton (freightliner chassis) and a 2011 40' Phaeton on the Powerglide chassis. The Powerglide (Tiffins chassis) gave a slightly better ride, but neither of them bottomed out in the front. Our current Tiffin has a tag axle with IFS and is the best ride we have ever had.

Like I said in an earlier response, pick the floor plan and options that are important to you and buy it. Any chassis will do the job well.
You can believe it or not , but facts DO count.. When a MFG puts limits on a chassis there Is a reason. There are all kinds of people and all kinds of MH out there . I have seen some scary sights, overloaded all over the road , too much hitch weight , unstable in crosswinds, it's a long list. Just why do you think they started putting tag axels under all the longer coaches? How about the fact for years the drive axel on 90 per cent of the MHs were carrying 24,000 lbs, 4,000 over legal in most states. When they started adding slides it got worse. Yes , ignore what I and others say, your right, but don't call us wrong !
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:01 PM   #54
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I find it hard to believe that the reliability of any chassis made today is in question. I have only been motorhoming for 14 years and in all that time I have never heard of a chassis failure of any brand. Any brand around today has proved its reliability. If I were to search for another new coach and had a list of 10 priorities, the chassis would be number 10. Every coach manufacturer picks a chassis design that meets their requirements and adds a box to it. The chassis would probably carry that box down the road for a million miles or more, but most won't see 150,000 miles. Just pick the floor plan and options that meet your desires, start traveling and enjoy life.
After RV'ing since 1957 and having MH's since 1988 I'd have to agree.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:05 PM   #55
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I use wooden pads under the jacks if the situation calls for it. I made them up from 2 X 12 pressure treated lumber. I cut 12 X 12 squares and sandwiched two of them together, running the grain at 90 degrees to each other. Then screwed them together with countersunk lag bolts. The are very strong and help when levelling on a soft surface. also they will add to the jack travel if you need that.
Exactly what I did some 12 years ago. Made another set a couple years ago since most of the spots at our favorite campground require that I put blocks under the rear tires and lower the front as far as possible. Not sure what I'm going to do if we go to a 43' with tag as the tag would be suspended in mid air.
When we got our first DSDP I tried using the Lynx Levelers and crushed them flat. Gave the remaining ones to my son for his TT.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:55 PM   #56
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Have had the Freightliner and now the Spartan. However it is a tag and I think the FL tag would be fine too. I only buy new and never keep past the warranty so nothing ever happens of course. But I sure see a difference in the ride of our current coach over our 08 Discovery. Go for a tag first, it will save you money! And you will never regret buying new if your budget allows.
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