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Old 11-09-2015, 05:40 PM   #15
Monaco Owners Club
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Smile Full width mud/rock flaps.

What is the problem with full width flaps? They look to nice when all mounted up to have any problems, especially those with the big stainless steel polished plate with the coach name on them or some other saying.
And that's the problem. Once in a while, out on the road we encounter an alligator (Truck tire tread or more.) That for whatever the reason we end up having to drive over. It's bad enough to run the coach over a mess like that but the vehicle that most of us tow behind our motor homes gets dragged over it too. Back to the flap with the big good looking sign on it. That gets dragged over the road debris and is so heavy that it frequently gets ripped loose and gets balled up under the toad along with the road debris. Damage varies.

There is a full across flap though that works great but definitely is not as nice looking as that mentioned above. It is slit about every 4 inches vertically and covers each side up to the hitch with a small opening in the middle for the hitch. It breaks the velocity of anything that is thrown off the road and works quite efficiently to keep rocks and other like debris from hitting the toad. It is definitely not as pretty and flashy as the shiny steel plated jobs. The way it is designed it will probably slide right over road debris.

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Old 11-09-2015, 05:55 PM   #16
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Had pulled my flap up to 6" before heading to Alaska last year but started accumulating gravel on the Protect-a-Tow screen after crossing my first construction zone (BC). Pulled the flap in the Yukon and had no more problems.

That said, I did notice a benefit when I got back to the lower 48. When I hit HO, HOT, HOT weather and noticed my coach was running a bit hotter than normal. Cleaning the radiator did not restore to the prior readings. I put the flap back on and the temps went back down. Does the flap create a high pressure zone under the motor and force more air thru the rear radiator?

Comments please.

2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ
2013 Ford Edge
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:46 PM   #17
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My experience has been that the toad is much cleaner with the flap installed and I've tried it with and without. I like the way it looks and on my coach it actually keeps the rear of the coach cleaner. Some like them and some don't. Opinions are like noses, everybody has one.
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:58 PM   #18
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Our last two rigs came with them and I haven't felt a need to remove them yet. The ones on our present rig are mounted using heavy hinges so no way for them to move sideways. And I like the looks too.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:28 PM   #19
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I have a Winnebago Vista 29' Class A built on a 178" Wheelbase Ford F53 Chassis and originally pulled a car with just the OEM rear dual mud flaps and my car got very dirty after towing on paved highways. I installed a UltraGuard 8' width 20" length across the back and my car now stays cleaner when towing. That's my personal experience.
Randy - Manhattan, Kansas
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:38 AM   #20
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You answered your own question.

The big full width "Mud Flaps" are always at the rear of the coach.. What happens is this.. Empty you have say 3 or 4 inches clearance, if the tires toss up a rock WHAM they take the hit and the towed is protected... BUT.

You never travel empty save for two trips.. Home from the dealer when you buy it, and back to the dealer when you trade it in.

The rest of the time you are loaded adn 3" becomes 2" Becomes 1" and then you hit a bump and it becomes -1/3" and as it passes over a rock or pebble it tosses it up and BANG your towed takes the hit.

And the brush versions.. Even worse.

SOLUTION.. I think it's called Car Guard or Kar Guard or some such, it's a mesh fabric that stretches between towed and tower, Now the rock is thrown up into the net and back down to the ground and the towed is protected. Blue-Ox and one other company.. Mine is Blue Ox but my towed is.. Well let's just say I've not yet installed it on this 2,000 dollar towed.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:47 PM   #21
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True, you need to install the rear flap so it has 4" clearance (or what ever your instructions say to have, 4" is what UltraGuard recommends) at your loaded running height and weight. This means they may actually touch the ground on big rigs with air springs when rig is parked with running height air released.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:16 PM   #22
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We always recommend starting with the mud flaps in your fender well. These, when made right will solve 80% of the problem.
They should be within 6" of the ground when you are in drive height. They can be as close as 4" off the ground, as long as you can not back into any curbs or parking guards far enough to find those low hanging mud flaps.
They need to be wide enough to cover the tires, and they need to be just stiff enough to not fly up as you move down the road.
We make ours from polyethylene material that will not fly.

Once you are covered in the wheel wells, then take a look to see how your toad is surviving. The mud flap across the back does do a lot of good for many coaches, but can be a hindrance for others...according to some postings.

The big item to look at is how far off the ground your back mud flap is. It should be no closer than 4" of the ground, we try for 5" when the coach sits high enough. If it is too close to the ground, as many are, they can cause a wind tunnel effect and throw rocks at your toad. If you are taking the Alaska highway, with all the loose gravel, it seems to be highly suggested to remove that mud flap for the trip.

You want the mud flap to be heavy enough to not fly up as you go down the road, but to be able to swing up when it does get hit to keep from it being t-boned.

We still believe in the back mud flap for most coaches. We have heard many stories of the mud flap getting wiped out by items in the road like lumber or alligators, but it protected their toad that would have otherwise gotten hit. The mud flaps in the fender well do not keep you from finding tall objects that just fit under your coach in the middle of the road.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I have an opinion on this and it will surely upset several people.....but it's just my opinion!

I've had two DP's and Class A gasser that had mud flaps. I built the flap for the gasser and the two DP's came with one. On all three, I changed the mounts so that they were removable and hung from a loop. They were all adjusted to the proper height. I've also made sure that the distance between the mounts on the frame were closer together than the mounts on the flap. This keeps the flap from moving side to side. My flaps have always worked well and never caused any issues. Personally, I think the flaps are a nice looking accessory.

Now for the part that will upset some. I think many people that dislike them and remove them, do so because they have damaged them by not being careful in certain backing and parking situations. I have repaired flaps for many people. They eventually take them off because they keep damaging them. Again....just an opinion from someone who has repaired many flaps.
I agree they are a nice looking accessory. But for me, I traded for functionality.
After I saw the results when I removed it, I was convinced it's just not worth hassle.
Dennis & Carol
2003, 4006, 41' DutchStar, Spartan, ISC 8.3L W/BanksPower - 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake. And the 04 Bird, Sunshine Car.
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:05 PM   #24
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Mine Newmar came with a plastic rear, full width, mud flap. I didn't like how it looked or performed. I replaced the plastic with the heavy rubber flap sold by "DuraFlap" above. I remounted it so it swung correctly and adjusted the height. Mine has to be removed every time I back my coach into it's parking spot at home. It's heavy, but worth having back there. I believe when they're hung correctly, they work as designed.
Don & Mary
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:21 PM   #25
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I have had 3 coaches over the years. The first two had the fiber (hula) skirts. Those broke up the dust, dirt and rocks while leaving everything with a even coat of dirt. The current coach has the full width, rigid skirt that appears to work well. It also leaves everything uniformly dirty. Now I have a Protect A Tow and the car is less dirty. So my take-a-way is that they work because I like the looks. Everything gets my Jeep dirty.
Ed and Barb Burgess
2004 42' Country Coach Tag, Intrigue
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:37 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
I have seen posts where people have removed the full width mudflap because they say it causes more harm by throwing rocks.

Mine seems to be working fine. Is it related to how low they are mounted.
I would think if they are a couple of inches off the ground, they would work fine.

The full-width flap mfgrs. recommend 4" from level ground to prevent it from throwing rocks and debris. However, if you are driving on gravel roads frequently, bouncing rocks will fly around.
Many years ago I got a broken side window when a passing vehicle's tire shot a rock sideways into my car.

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