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Old 02-20-2017, 11:52 AM   #1
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What to power when I have 110V at the storage place

I am getting ready to put our Class A 2002 Damon Intruder in a nice covered storage place. They provide a 110V outlet for each tenant. I am going to get a plug for the RV that has a 110V pigtail so I can use a regular outdoors extension cord and leave the 50 AMP cord safely locked away, out of sight. I assume I will want to leave the battery disconnect switch ON to let the converter do its thing keeping the batteries charged up. Other than that, I hadn't planned on having anything turned on. One of the folks I work with said I should leave the fridge (Dometic side by side) on, 24/7. Does that sound right? Is that even possible with only 110V 15A (or maybe it's 20A - don't know for sure) power?

Thanks in advance - all of this is new to me!
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Old 02-20-2017, 01:11 PM   #2
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I store mine in my barn with a 20amp plug, I leave the converter/charger/batteries on, refrigerator off, all breakers are on but I don't turn anything on.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:50 PM   #3
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I leave the fridge on. In the winter I set the furnace at 50 degrees F and in the summer I set the AC at 80 degrees F.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:50 AM   #4
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Anyone else want to chime in?
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:09 AM   #5
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Converter on, only. Keep the batteries in float.

It's a waste to leave the fridge on and with 15 amp service, you can't leave the AC on.
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:11 AM   #6
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I have a 50a plug at my house, which I'll use when getting the coach ready for a trip (running the A/C's, in and out all the time).

However more commonly, I'll just have it connected with a heavy duty 20amp extension cord, and there are two scenario's:
- Winter hibernate mode: the only circuit breakers that are on are the converter/inverter (to keep the house batteries charged), and the basement sockets which power the battery minder (keeps the chassis batteries charged), and a lightbulb on a thermostat control which is in the wet bay. (I winterize, but do this also anyhow). The inverter is turned OFF.
- Summer ready to go mode: all circuit breakers on, but they only things actually turned 'on' in addition to previous: refrig, entertainment, mwave. Inverter is turned ON. I would not leave the inverter on if at a remote storage facility, if you loose power the inverter will suck your house batteries dead in a couple days.

All the other high power devices (A/C's, hot water heater, fireplace, washer/dryer) don't get used unless I plug into 50a shorepower.

Notes: I keep the Magnum configuration setting for the converter set to 5amp max. I only increase this when boondocking and using the generator, so the batteries then would get charged in the shorted time possible. I also have a little green lightbulb setup plugged into a non-inverter socket, so I get a visual warning outside the coach if by some chance the power goes off.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:00 PM   #7
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First you realise 110 refers to a voltage, the low end of normal (more likely 120 volts) not to an outlet type

A 15 amp outlet (common houseload with parallel slots) is 120 volt
A 20 amp outlet (not common, the neutral is rotated 90 degrees from the above) is 120 volt
A 15/20 (also common, neutral slot is "T" shaped so it can take either plug, I have two of them in my RV, custom install). is `120 volt.

A TT-30 (30 amp RV plug is 120 volt.

And a 50 amp RV plug, well that is 120 volts.. .Twice (total 240)

Everything in the Rv is 120 volt (With very few possible exceptios)

What to power in storage: Converter of course (or the charger module of an inverter) that's the only thing you NEED to power in storage. a 1500 watt space heater. if you need, or a de-humidifier.

and last is the fridge, but for now, defrost, prop the doors open and leave it off, turn it on a few days before you are ready to travel

you can run ONE A/C with the fridge off on 15 or on on 20 provided the batteries are well fed.

And that about covers it.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:25 PM   #8
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Everything off except the converter/charger when in deep storage if you have a multi stage charger that won't boil the batteries dry. If not disconnect the negative terminal. No need to run the fridge unless you plan to use the coach every weekend or so. If you live in high humidly area consider a dehumidifier in the shower draining into the gray tank. And shut the main valve for the propane tank.
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Old 02-22-2017, 03:04 PM   #9
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I had 50AMP installed and stay hooked up full-time when in storage.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rewillia View Post
I had 50AMP installed and stay hooked up full-time when in storage.
You had the done in a rental storage place ?
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:11 PM   #11
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Try plugging in a line like you will have ( 15 or 20 amp ) and set things up like you think you want. See what the amp draw is. As long as it is comfortably within what you have , say 4 amps, then you only need to be sure nothing can kick on that would be a problem like an air conditioner. If cold is a problem you can winterize but you will likely not be able to keep enough electric based heat to be safe under 40 degrees. Just sitting, no heating, you should be able to keep everything pretty normally configured.
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Old 02-22-2017, 09:12 PM   #12
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I have a 120 volt outlet and I run a cord to the coach. It runs the xantrex inverter/charger keeping the house batteries charged and I can also run the Norcold 1200 lRIM fridge. You can not run a air conditioner, it will trip the circuit breaker.

I leave the 50 amp cord from the coach in the compartment, I use a pigtail from 50 amp to accommodate the 120 volt plug. Make sure that the cord is heavy duty running from the outlet. Mine is like 50 foot long, so I make sure it is heavy duty or else it might melt.
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Old 02-22-2017, 09:44 PM   #13
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Plug it in to keep the converter on and the batteries charged. Turn everything else off. Why leave things like the fridge on and just add that much more wear and tear to it?
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:32 PM   #14
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You don't even have to run the inverter/charger (if so equipped). That too is wear and tear. You could buy two $30 battery minders and stick one on the house bank and one on the chassis bank and turn everything off. This is my MO when I store for a few months or more. For a few weeks I run the inverter/charger and nothing else.

If you are in a very humid environment you could run one of these:

Caframo Stor-Dry 9406 110V Warm Air Circulator/Dehumidifier - 75 W - 9406CAABX [54323] - $67.95 : Quality Marine Supply
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