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Old 07-01-2015, 11:26 AM   #1
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What to use for interior walls/ceilings?

What would be good to use for walls besides paneling? anything? I was thinking the idea of using drywall but I did a Google search on that and it turns out that the drywall needed to cover the walls in a 32' RV would weigh in at just over a thousand pounds, and would pull out from the studs when driving. So not only is it heavy and a waste of time it would get ruined while driving.

I'm just trying to make it comfortable because right now until I get my power situation fixed up, I'm stuck in my MH with temperatures rising close to 100 degrees during the day and the humidity in Florida is killing me It's as hot and miserable inside as it is on the outside. I know my windows are a big factor on that since they are not double pane but I'll get to that after I fix/remodel the interior. One thing at a time.

So what would be good to use that actually looks nice? I checked Lowe's and all their paneling looks cheap or made of plastic. I would like my MH to look nice, not like a kid got a hold of some material and stapled it to the wall. I'm trying to help increase value not lower it kind of thing.

I'm also going to be removing the old Styrofoam "insulation" and replacing it with some actual, useful insulation. I'm looking at getting some r-19 possibly even higher for the ceiling. Any thoughts or suggestions on that? Vapor barrier or no vapor barrier?
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:44 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by MarkusW View Post
I'm also going to be removing the old Styrofoam "insulation" and replacing it with some actual, useful insulation. I'm looking at getting some r-19 possibly even higher for the ceiling. Any thoughts or suggestions on that? Vapor barrier or no vapor barrier?

Styrofoam or other "rigid" foam boards are some of the best insulation. Professional spray on foam is even better. Fiberglass would be my last choice.
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:35 PM   #3
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Styrofoam or other "rigid" foam boards are some of the best insulation. Professional spray on foam is even better. Fiberglass would be my last choice.
+1 what he said.
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:54 PM   #4
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Windows and vents should be the first target.

I bought a roll of the silvered bubble wrap stuff at Menards (lowes, home depot). I cut it and made inserts that fit nicely on the inside of my windows and roof vents.

Styrofoam is a very good insulator, go get a scalding hot cup of coffee in a Styrofoam cup, get my point.

The silvered bubble wrap stuff is also excellent, It reflects IR, and provides a dead air space. (see photo)

There is also a rigid foam board with metalized coating on both sides, You can get this in 1/2 thickness. (see photo)

At mid afternoon, open the closets, drawers, etc that face the south wall. Put your hand up against the wall, it will be very warm. You might consider cutting some of the silver bubble wrap or foam board and either tape or glue it to those south facing walls inside cabinets and behind drawers. This will also help considerable and no-one will ever see it. If its on the back of a cabinet, buy cheap 1/8th inch luan board, cut it with a razor knife, and glue it on top of the foam board
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:08 PM   #5
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+1 on the above.
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:10 PM   #6
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Styrofoam then cover it with luan then over the top of that glue on Styrofoam panels that can be painted...
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:22 PM   #7
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Styrofoam then cover it with luan then over the top of that glue on Styrofoam panels that can be painted...
Wow! My girlfriend and I love the ceiling panels you put up! That looks really neat.
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:28 PM   #8
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Life member - Good idea.. I'm going to be recoating or replacing my roof membrane in the next year. I'll check the ceiling temperatures and if they don't come down, I may do something like this.
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:32 PM   #9
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Windows and vents should be the first target.

I bought a roll of the silvered bubble wrap stuff at Menards (lowes, home depot). I cut it and made inserts that fit nicely on the inside of my windows and roof vents.

Styrofoam is a very good insulator, go get a scalding hot cup of coffee in a Styrofoam cup, get my point.

The silvered bubble wrap stuff is also excellent, It reflects IR, and provides a dead air space. (see photo)

There is also a rigid foam board with metalized coating on both sides, You can get this in 1/2 thickness. (see photo)

At mid afternoon, open the closets, drawers, etc that face the south wall. Put your hand up against the wall, it will be very warm. You might consider cutting some of the silver bubble wrap or foam board and either tape or glue it to those south facing walls inside cabinets and behind drawers. This will also help considerable and no-one will ever see it. If its on the back of a cabinet, buy cheap 1/8th inch luan board, cut it with a razor knife, and glue it on top of the foam board
I've been leaving my vent fans running to try and help push the hot air out and suck some air through the windows to get somewhat of a breeze in here. It isn't much but it does help somewhat.

I'm curious why everyone supports the use of foam over fiberglass. Is there a particular reason why foam > fiberglass or is that just a personal preference? I've been in and around the residential building industry throughout my job experience and I've always just preferred fiberglass over foam since it's good as an insulator for both sound and heat as well as keeping cool air in. I'm not familiar with foam and have always been told fiberglass is better. I understand your reasoning for the coffee in a Styrofoam cup as an insulation material but in that sense it is used to keep heat in as opposed to keeping it out and the coffee (interior) cool. My entire MH is wrapped with Styrofoam from floor to walls to ceilings. Effectively turning the inside of my MH into the area you would put your coffee.
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:48 PM   #10
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Foam sheets are just so much easier to work with when remodeling a RV. Also, foam doesn't require 'loft' in order to achieve the highest R value like fiberglass does. Also, since foam is a solid, without gaps, there's much less air infiltration allowed. Also, foam, being a continuous solid, mostly, has little to no water retention properties. Water has a hard time finding a way inside the foam, whereas with fiberglass, it can soak a bat inside a wall, and it can takes months to dry out.

I'm talking about foam sheets, not the spray in stuff.

And other reasons.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:00 PM   #11
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Wink

The walls in a RV are typically thinner than a stick built house. The insulation value (R Value)per inch of foam boards are higher than the R Value of fiberglass. This link is a good article and the last chart shows R Values of common insulation materials.

http://www.greatdayimprovements.com/...lue-chart.aspx

Heat travels to cold. Insulation does not know which side is hot or cold it just prevents or slows that migration. So yes with foam in the walls, roof, floors a RV is like a Styrofoam cup trying to keep the hot side hot and cold side cold. If you think about it in the summer you want cold in and hot out, in the winter you want hot in and cold out.

Mike
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:21 PM   #12
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OK well that makes sense then. I'll see if I can manage to get some quality foam a little less or even at 2" thick since I'm going to be running furring strips as studs against the metal frame which will give me an extra inch of room for insulation and more support for hanging things. We want to hang an led TV on the passenger side living room area and the way the company did the walls was they just glued luan to the Styrofoam and frame so it's not suitable for hanging anything to the walls right now.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:44 PM   #13
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I few years ago I had to replace the interior walls of my Class B because of dry rot. I used fiberglass as insulation. The walls were 1/4" plywood, covered with 1/2" marine grade foam. I then covered that with heavy duty marine grade vinyl.

I was amazed at how well it insulated, not only keeping the hot or cold outside from getting inside, but how much more quiet it was. And it looks really nice; made the old van appear very modern and new.

I've since got'n a Class A but still have the old Falcon 190.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:55 PM   #14
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Heat transfers via three different mechanisms; 1) Radiation, 2) Conduction, 3) convection.

Given cost and space available. fiberglass is considerably less expensive than foam, but it takes more of it (and a larger area) to get the dead air space. This makes it very cost effective for a stick built house where you have 4 inches in the walls and 8 inches in the ceiling. The component of fiberglass that makes it a good insulator is that it provides a dead air space that eliminates (significantly reduces) convection and conduction (air circulation), but you need a nice thick vat of fiberglass to accomplish this.

Foam provides an absolute dead air space (no convection) , AND, it significantly heat transfer via conduction. (thats the coffee cup) . PLUS if you get the foam that has a silverized coating, you'll eliminate any heat treasfer via radiation.

If you have a small area to work with, Foam is the choice, as is the bubble wrap.
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