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Old 02-11-2013, 11:12 AM   #15
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I just waxed our 36' Airstream, it is fiberglass with Meguiar's fiberglass boat cleaner/wax. I would reccomend using an orbital polisher, it does a much better job than you could ever do by hand. Mine is air driven, but a good electric one can be bought at Harbor Freight for a decent price, I also use 6" foam pad applicators. I changed them often as to they cleaned and became dirty
It's like eating an elephant, one bite at a time
+1 on the polisher... you need this to properly do the job and less aches and pain.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:33 AM   #16
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Some more tips to remember when washing and waxing:

Microfiber towels are better than terry cloth. You can pick up stacks of them at Sam's Club or Wal-Mart (for you boondockers) for inexpensive. I have several packs of those and they don't mar like terry cloth does. If you drop one on the ground, put it in the washables bucket and move on to the next towel. Those things pick up dirt that easy and you will scratch your paint.

When polishing always go from most abrasive to least abrasive. This helps get the swirls out with each step. It's a long process, especially for an RV, but you'll love the results.

When using a random orbital polisher make sure you keep the pads moist. It helps breakdown the polish and reduces heat (they don't generate enough to do damage). Take the heat comment like this, yes you can burn paint with a random orbital but it will take you hours in one spot and very dry pads. Now a true circular (orbital) polisher will burn paint in seconds if not careful.

Work in small areas until you get the shine you like. Below is a picture of a 1992 Saturn that I owned that was my practice vehicle. At the time it was 11 years old and I bought it from The Goodwill Auto Auction. It was layered in dust and other things. After I got done with it, this is what you have:




Take your time and you'll get the results you want.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:48 AM   #17
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2x on the Meguiars and micro fiber towels...I always do mine by hand...would never take s machine to it! The trick is not to put too much wax on it...I use a damp sponge when I apply the wax...it is an all day adventure...but looks good with no swirls in the coating...you need a bunch of the micro fiber towels as they load up with wax...wash them and they are good to use again...
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:00 PM   #18
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Here are a few websites that sell excellent products and have some of the best knowledge when it comes to detailing.

www.autogeek.net
www.Autopia.org
www.autopia-carcare.com

If you want to comparison shop you can use Amazon also. The knowledge is priceless though. I've been a memeber Autopia for almost 12 years and like here, they are all friendly and will give help freely. Granted they may use different techniques but they get the same results.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:49 PM   #19
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You can get 303 at most marine stores.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:25 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Whatnobeer View Post
Here are a few websites that sell excellent products and have some of the best knowledge when it comes to detailing.

www.autogeek.net
www.Autopia.org
www.autopia-carcare.com

If you want to comparison shop you can use Amazon also. The knowledge is priceless though. I've been a memeber Autopia for almost 12 years and like here, they are all friendly and will give help freely. Granted they may use different techniques but they get the same results.
Thank you for all you tips, I will also go out and get micro fiber towels.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:23 PM   #21
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I would like to correct a statement I made earlier about abrasive polishes. Yes should always go from most abrasive to least to work out swirls and halo marks, but you should always use the least abrasive polish to do the trick.

Meguiar's scales their's from 1 to 10. 1 being least abrasive and 10 having massive cutting power (7-10 is for pro shops in my opinion). What I'm stating is you don't need to use something with a 6 when a 3 will do and then step down from there. It's all trial and error on how much you need and how long you need to do it. I'm not an expert by any means on the subject but I can help where needed. If anyone is ever in the Dayton, OH area and wants a demonstration of how it works I would be more than happy to help for the cost of a couple of cold adult beverages. Just give me a heads up so I can get ready.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:06 PM   #22
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I would like to correct a statement I made earlier about abrasive polishes. Yes should always go from most abrasive to least to work out swirls and halo marks, but you should always use the least abrasive polish to do the trick.

Meguiar's scales their's from 1 to 10. 1 being least abrasive and 10 having massive cutting power (7-10 is for pro shops in my opinion). What I'm stating is you don't need to use something with a 6 when a 3 will do and then step down from there. It's all trial and error on how much you need and how long you need to do it. I'm not an expert by any means on the subject but I can help where needed. If anyone is ever in the Dayton, OH area and wants a demonstration of how it works I would be more than happy to help for the cost of a couple of cold adult beverages. Just give me a heads up so I can get ready.
Thanks for the tips, I have never had a problem before waxing vehicles but for whatever reason the white which is fiberglass on my Itasca is touch to get a nice shine. The green color comes out very nice without much effort. I have already looked up the wax and bought some micro fiber towels. I must be anxious because the motorhome is still covered and we received 32 inches of snow last week. One way or another it will be ready to go first week of April to Myrtle Beach,Thanks,
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:42 PM   #23
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I will only use the Red Max floor wax, been on my MH for two years and still looks great.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:58 PM   #24
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Thanks for the tips, I have never had a problem before waxing vehicles but for whatever reason the white which is fiberglass on my Itasca is touch to get a nice shine. The green color comes out very nice without much effort. I have already looked up the wax and bought some micro fiber towels. I must be anxious because the motorhome is still covered and we received 32 inches of snow last week. One way or another it will be ready to go first week of April to Myrtle Beach,Thanks,

Good luck with fiberglass. I asked one of my detailing buddies earlier today and he said a bottle of Nu-Finish might be worth a try. It's not expensive and does leave a good shine. As for Myrtle Beach, the misses and I were just down there for Christmas. Love it there. My brother lives down that way and we all spent Christmas on the beach even though it was a bit cooler it was still nice.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:06 PM   #25
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We use nothing but Protectal, you can get it at Wal-Mart in the RV section, or Camping World, we do the finish, rubber, and the windows. We're starting our 20th year on the road, and we have seen and heard if them all. Years ago we had a Pace Arrow and the finish started to have oxidation, someone told us of this "miracle" product, TSRW!!! Don't use it, it alligators your decals and leave streaks of resin on your RV. Our Newmar has full body paint and no worry about that anymore. Talked to a boat shop and he says he makes a fortune re-doing rigs and boats that used this product. Main thing is to keep it clean, we use a California Duster when we get to our site, and wash and Protectal it twice a year.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:57 PM   #26
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You need to google red max pro. You will love the results. It is a little work on the prep but it is worth it. We did my brothers m/h and it is a 05 and had never been waxed.
It was chalky and looked old. Here are tve end results. Try it you will like.

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Looks like new again!
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:17 PM   #27
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There are many products out there, but if you want to renew your finish on an older vehicle without back breaking work, red max pro, or zip floor sealer is the only way to go.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:23 AM   #28
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Wax burns off in the sun and washes off in the rain. Use a Polymer Polish. I use Zaino Brothers AIO. A one step Poly that will last for about 6 months. Easy to apply, even in direct sun.
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