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Old 02-01-2015, 06:07 PM   #15
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Make sure your system can't back feed the power grid if there is a power failure. I believe most power suppliers require it.
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:11 PM   #16
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Make sure your system can't back feed the power grid if there is a power failure. I believe most power suppliers require it.
the transfer switch wouldn't take care of that? I don't know the answer, just asking.
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:16 PM   #17
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My home system (grid tied, no batteries) has a built in cutoff switch that activates if it sees no power from the grid. I don't know about your transfer switch doing the same thing.
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:31 PM   #18
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i'll see what I can find out on the cut off switch. thanks
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:06 PM   #19
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the transfer switch wouldn't take care of that? I don't know the answer, just asking.
Yes, it would. When the circuits are switched to the RV/inverter they are disconnected from the grid.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:44 PM   #20
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The daily charge and discharge of your batteries will shorten their life, not sure you would come ahead when all said and done. Of course if you unplug every night you should come out on top. Not sure if it's worth all the effort.
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:26 AM   #21
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The daily charge and discharge of your batteries will shorten their life, not sure you would come ahead when all said and done. Of course if you unplug every night you should come out on top. Not sure if it's worth all the effort.
I wasn't aware it would shorten the batteries life. food for thought.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:40 AM   #22
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"a" plug? read the OP again. He was talking multiple devices, in multiple locations in the house. No way he can do that moving one plug, unless he does a significant amount of rewiring in the house first.
I did. He has two easy choices. Just run an extension cord to start. Then he can break out a circuit and put it on a plug that can be moved to a plug connected to the vehicle source or to a socket connected to a breaker.

I could get a bit more complex and do it automatically using the vehicle transfer switch and a sensor on the solar line. You professional electricians are tied into a box. ;-) If one thinks about it there are easy manual ways to break out a few circuits while staying in the code to use generator power in an emergency. All I did is include using the solar bank.

FWIW with 60 A of solar I would assume he means 12 VDC or about 600 W usable. That's about 14 KW/day. Half that on solar so maybe 7 KW best case. At 10 cents/KWH that 70 cents/day. $21/month. Not sure whether or not that makes enough difference to him to try it. Either a lot of fiddle factor or a lot of expense to put it in.
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:45 PM   #23
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I did. He has two easy choices. Just run an extension cord to start. Then he can break out a circuit and put it on a plug that can be moved to a plug connected to the vehicle source or to a socket connected to a breaker.

I could get a bit more complex and do it automatically using the vehicle transfer switch and a sensor on the solar line. You professional electricians are tied into a box. ;-) If one thinks about it there are easy manual ways to break out a few circuits while staying in the code to use generator power in an emergency. All I did is include using the solar bank.

FWIW with 60 A of solar I would assume he means 12 VDC or about 600 W usable. That's about 14 KW/day. Half that on solar so maybe 7 KW best case. At 10 cents/KWH that 70 cents/day. $21/month. Not sure whether or not that makes enough difference to him to try it. Either a lot of fiddle factor or a lot of expense to put it in.
I think we are 18 kwh in jersey. why wouldn't it be all on solar? batteries should last through the night. or am I missing something?
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:53 PM   #24
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Your batteries only last so many cycles, so running deep every night ( as I have on my moored boat) will shorten the life.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:32 PM   #25
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I went to the rv dealer today to check up on how well the batteries were holding up. in 19 days the trimetric 2030 meter was showing 80% battery charge. are my batteries draining to fast for only having the ford radio and maybe the smoke and lp sensors active? the meter was showing a -.01 amp.
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:00 PM   #26
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I submit that your 60 Watts of solar should be keeping the batteries at 100%


We use a 5Watt solar panel to keep everything (house and chassis) topped off while in storage and it works perfectly.


Something is not right if you only have 80% after 19 days of storage and no usage other than the parasite draws of the radio/LP sensor/etc. - check battery water levels(?)


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Old 02-03-2015, 02:16 PM   #27
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the panels are not yet connected. and my typing error it is .1 amp( which is worse)
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:06 PM   #28
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the panels are not yet connected. and my typing error it is .1 amp( which is worse)
OK...then, that is normal.

Yes, a .1 (1/10th) of an Amp draw will kill a battery set over time. That is why we have the 5Watt solar panel for storage. Before getting the solar panel, we could only go about 14-15 days of storage before we had to give the house batteries some charging time. On our coach, the house bank starts the gennie, so that was real problem.

These parasite draws will drain the batteries even with the salesman switch thrown - and - there are parasite draws on the chassis battery too.

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