Community Forums

crockwood · 11-06-2014, 08:50 PM

Hello All: I was having problems with one of my AC units. Im thinking of replacing them because of age. 25 years old.. And wont turn on, unit has power.

I have Dometic Duo Therm with 13.5k BTU with heat strip. NOT DUCTED.. Low profile Penguin.

So, should I put the Penguin back on ? or go with the Coleman Mach 8?

If I go with the Coleman, is any changes necessary? Also, there is no wall thermostat for the AC.

Thoughts?

chris

RV Wizard · 11-07-2014, 02:04 AM

If it just simply won't run, I would find out why and then decide if it is feasible. The new units today are not built like what you have by any means. They are noisey andd the guage of metal what little there is is very thin.

crockwood · 11-07-2014, 12:16 PM

Rv wizard. Yeah. I got power at the breakers. Front unit works fine, except doesn't work on medium on the fan..

I was thinking the capacitors maybe. I pulled off cover, and there's a lot of wires to the capacitors. . I read you need to discharge them before testing. What's the process so I don't get shocked, or ruin the ac unit?? I do have a good multimeter to check resistance .

Chris

wa8yxm · 11-07-2014, 04:26 PM

I am going to partially address:

IF you find replacement is needed... Then most all Air Conditioners will fit,, Make sure you use the same controls, NON-Ducted often have ceiling panel controls (If so get one like that) some however use a thermostat on the wall (in which case you can use any compatible system (Same number of T-Stat wires or less)

Your other decision is 13,500 or 15,000 Modern 15,000 jobs may well eat less electricity than the older 13,500 units.

I upgraded the upper unit on one of my ducted A/Cs when it failed,

Original carrier Air V, 13,500 BTU 13.5 amps, Failed due to manufacturing or design defect (They built it to fail) Replaed with an Advent Air 15,000 drop on replacement (No need to change lower or middle units) also 13.5 amp (Same power more cold)

I do not recommend Advent air, Made in china, the condenser fan blew up on mine and had to be replaced (Coleman fits, 15 bucks used)

crockwood · 11-07-2014, 05:52 PM

Thanks wa8xym.. yeah, this one uses controls on the ac. So I guess I can use either, that's good.

I'm gonna test the capacitors first, if good. Then good chance compressor is bad.. if not replace. Maybe that'll give me some more use.
thanks, Chris

TQ60 · 11-07-2014, 07:20 PM

Download the manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure.

Just google the model number or use bryant ac (I think).

Someone will provide direction on that soon...

RV Wizard · 11-08-2014, 03:51 AM

Here is the service manual iRV2 Forums - Files - Heating and Cooling. Make sure power is off then drain voltage off the capacitors with a resistive load light a light bulb. Follow the trouble shooting for your issue of the unit. Good luck and keep us posted.

crockwood · 11-08-2014, 07:33 PM

rvwizard: I was working on the coach today. Pulled off the ac cover, and looked at capacitors.. The start cap has a resistor, so I don't need to discharge.. The 2 on the compressor side I guess do, they are RUN caps I guess.. Not sure which wire is which, no diagram on the unit. I made that cap discharge tool from the BRYANT RV site.

Breaker has 125V from generator or shore power. I'm gonna check for power at the pigtail. If I got power there, maybe CAPS or a relay. I read a bunch of the manual, thank you for posting that..

chris

TQ60 · 11-08-2014, 07:52 PM

The manual should have detail steps to follow so just do as directed.

If compressor not running and ckt breaker not tripping or odd noises then likely contactor or control issue as bad compressor would be grunting and possibly pulling excess current which you have not indicated.

Be carefull topside as high voltage in many places and USE ONLY ONE HAND!

All voltages reference to ground so place one probe in a screw hole in the steel housing for the ground and with one hand NOT TOUCHING THE UNIT use other hand to make your measurement.

Having one hand not on unit (resting on roof to steady yourself) you know where it is and less likely to rest it on a cap which the shock will not hurt you much but the fall from the reaction might.

crockwood · 11-08-2014, 09:12 PM

TQ60, thanks for your reply. I looked at the manual, and it doesn't show wiring diagram for the unit. There is 2 caps next to the compressor, and 1 on the right side, this one is the start cap.. Just not sure which wires are ground so I can discharge RUN caps.

I think I lost the diagram sticker, when cleaning it last year. The AC in the front has a stripped bolt on the shroud I gotta drill out. Maybe, itll have the diagram, hopefully.

crockwood · 11-08-2014, 09:17 PM

Rv Wizard, BTW, my aunt and uncle live in Chattanooga. My uncle is from there, his name Wendell Baltimore. Small world.

RV Wizard · 11-09-2014, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crockwood

Rv Wizard, BTW, my aunt and uncle live in Chattanooga. My uncle is from there, his name Wendell Baltimore. Small world.

Yes it is.

TQ60 · 11-09-2014, 10:08 AM

Good manual should have a wiring diagram.

On end of compressor should be a removable cap.

Under it usually 3 connections, start, run and neutral.

When it is trying to run the run is always hot and start hot until running.

If no voltage then relay on control board or bad connection.

Troubleshooting guide should direct you to measure voltages before messing with caps.

crockwood · 11-09-2014, 01:44 PM

TQ60, thanks for your reply. Manual says voltage first. So, got 125v at breaker.. good. Generator / shore power, same issues so transfer switch working.
Then switch for fan.. then switch for cooling, for resistance.

Lastly, motor and compressor. Going camping fri-mon.. not gonna need the rear air, camping on the beach in Nor Cal.
Thank you,
chris