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06-15-2017, 04:47 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggcrisp
I was shopping for a class B, my wife was shopping for a class C. We came home with a class A, sorta.
What we have is a crossover. Benefits are more storage and living space.
Ten years from now, rv's could be completely different? Or maybe still the same ole same ole.
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We have a 2015 Fleetwood Terra SE 33s.
It's a crossover and cousin to your Flair and we love it.
Cost less than my neighbors car too.
We put Rosdmaster front and rear sway bars plus the Safe-T-Plus and differential track bar.
Handles like a dream now
__________________
Harry Grace
KM6ZRG
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06-15-2017, 08:04 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 6
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SHEESH...
Reading what you wrote, your concern should not be in getting a class A, but, in 10 years what are you going to be able to afford. A Class A in either a gas or DP is going to cost you money. Questions like how much do i have to spend each month towards upkeep (oil, fuel, tire wear) add up to money each month that must be factored in to full-timing. You mention dogs, again just how many of them will be around in 10 years? this must factor in as well.
There are alot of options for you to think about. Like maybe if, your good with your hands, and somewhat smart, think about building your own from a shell, or, current bus. Something to think about.
My wife and i are looking at a 45' Prevost 2014+. We have the money and the time even at our young age. Yet, by reading these forums, it can give you a good general idea of what you need to go into this expecting.
Although a fun life, a filled life of adventure...the though of doing, and having the ability to do are two different things. The main question is for you two to answer is: what do we want?
Answer that question, effectively...for the both of you, and you'll start getting a clearer idea of what your wanting.
TEXASxTEX
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06-16-2017, 12:23 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,945
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I too noticed during my shopping last year that class C's do tend to hold their value as they age more than class A's do, I don't necessarily have a good explanation for this, but my best guess is that it is due to the perception (likely an accurate one) that class A's cost more to maintain.
As to your plan to buy a sub $10,000 motorhome in a couple of years, while I understand your motivation, I think it is a bad idea unless a dream deal comes along. I spent about 5 months seriously shopping before I bought my first class A last year, I started looking at the sub $10,000 price range, quickly moved up to the $12,500 - $15,000 range and ended up paying at just over $20,000.
The big thing I found during my shopping was that on average every dollar spent over that $10,000-$12,500 point that will buy a reasonably functional older motorhome of a given age and model, is paid back 2 to 3 times in added functionality, upgrades, and general condition of the coach. In other words a $10,000 motorhome, plus $7,500 worth of upgrades turns it into a $12,500-$13,500 motorhome on the used market, so it is better to buy one that someone has already done the upgrades on vs, buying a fixer upper project.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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06-16-2017, 06:34 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: midwest
Posts: 962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1
I too noticed during my shopping last year that class C's do tend to hold their value as they age more than class A's do, I don't necessarily have a good explanation for this, but my best guess is that it is due to the perception (likely an accurate one) that class A's cost more to maintain.
As to your plan to buy a sub $10,000 motorhome in a couple of years, while I understand your motivation, I think it is a bad idea unless a dream deal comes along. I spent about 5 months seriously shopping before I bought my first class A last year, I started looking at the sub $10,000 price range, quickly moved up to the $12,500 - $15,000 range and ended up paying at just over $20,000.
The big thing I found during my shopping was that on average every dollar spent over that $10,000-$12,500 point that will buy a reasonably functional older motorhome of a given age and model, is paid back 2 to 3 times in added functionality, upgrades, and general condition of the coach. In other words a $10,000 motorhome, plus $7,500 worth of upgrades turns it into a $12,500-$13,500 motorhome on the used market, so it is better to buy one that someone has already done the upgrades on vs, buying a fixer upper project.
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X2
Think: money pit.
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Flair 26e gas Crossover
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06-16-2017, 02:08 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 492
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You can totally spend less then $10000 on a class a and not end up with a money pit. My wife and I bought a classic motorhome for $2000 and then put another $7000 in updates and making the way we want it. We have been on the road full time for 10 months. In that time we have spent a total of less then $50.00 on repairs. How many people who spend hundreds of thousands on a motorhome can say that.? The question is what you can you do yourself.
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06-16-2017, 02:20 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorPro
You can totally spend less then $10000 on a class a and not end up with a money pit. My wife and I bought a classic motorhome for $2000 and then put another $7000 in updates and making the way we want it. We have been on the road full time for 10 months. In that time we have spent a total of less then $50.00 on repairs. How many people who spend hundreds of thousands on a motorhome can say that.? The question is what you can you do yourself.
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What model motorhome did you get?
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06-16-2017, 02:25 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,945
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I am not saying that all sub $10,000 are money pits, just that the bang for your buck tends to go up exponentially the more you spend over this theoretical mark. Also there is a matter of expectations, simply finding a fully functional motorhome on a $10,000 budget is hard enough, using the definition of all the major systems work, and you would have a reasonable expectation that it would survive a thousand mile road trip. The reality is that many of these $10,000 motorhomes are inherently fixer uppers, the tires are often old enough to need replacing for safety reasons, there goes $1,500 - $3,500 or more depending on size and brand, often either the generator, refrigerator, or one or more of the air conditioners don't work, each of which could be another $1,500 or more. Then there is the drive train, engine, transmission, brakes, batteries, shocks, suspension bushings, just to name a few.
Just finding one that does not need major work is enough of a challenge, finding one that is well maintained with reasonably new tires and batteries, is like finding a needle in a haystack. Sure they are out there, sure there are those widows that can't stand seeing it sitting in the driveway just after their husbands died and just want it gone, but those are the exceptions, instead all too common you find the sub $10,000 motorhome has been sitting up for a few years rotting away.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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06-16-2017, 06:23 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 492
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If your budget is $10000 you need to look for a sub$5000 motorhome so you have money to get it ready. If you are mechanical ( this is where you have to be honest with your self) deals can be found if you take your time. I did a bunch of searching before I found my 86 Winnibago Elandan with 7000 original miles for $2000
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06-16-2017, 06:41 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,387
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I sold our 1993/4 Airstream (34' Legacy) for $11,000.00 CAD last Spring. Did I sell it too cheap? No, I sold it to a young couple that were super happy to get it. Everything worked and worked well. It had lots of up-grades like LED's throughout, extra house batteries, window awnings all around, etc, etc. (I like to mod and update stuff!) It was a great rig with an excellent floor plan, but we just wanted to update and get something that had slides.
Keep looking and something will turn up, just don't be in a rush, but be ready to grab that one when you find it.
Happy Glamping.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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06-16-2017, 09:23 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,485
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You never know. Three years ago we went looking for a fairly new Thor and ended up buying a 15 year old Fleetwood Pace Arrow. Full timing now and still doing fine, needs a couple of things fixed but I figure that's par for the course with an older rig (had my share of 15+ year old cars as daily drivers so no surprises there).
Wait a minute, I thought the center of the universe was Philo, Illinois, USA... the water tower says so (last I heard)...
__________________
Dave RVM#66 and Carol
1998 Pace Arrow Vision
Seeing the USA - 200 miles at a time
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06-16-2017, 11:30 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandcarol
Wait a minute, I thought the center of the universe was Philo, Illinois, USA... the water tower says so (last I heard)...
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Actually some monks decided the center of the universe is up around a small lake up in the bush North West of Kamloops. Check it out on GOOGLE.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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06-18-2017, 12:58 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 619
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For full time use, I recommend you look at Class As. They generally have more storage space and carrying capacity. However, there are people that full time in all kinds of RVs, including small trailers. Your budget will constrain you more than anything else.
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06-18-2017, 01:19 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ga traveler
Although I was the service manager, the owner of the lot liked for me to go on test drives with newbies. I had been camping since 1968 and motorhoming since 1974. I could answer most questions from the newbies. For full timing, I recommended class A or diesel. You will need all the storage space you can get. # 1 thing to remember is NCC. We sold diesels that had 5,000 pound NCC an we sold some with less than 1500 pound NCC. DO NOT take the salespersons word for it. Look at the manufacturers label to be sure.
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And don't believe the advertised NCC either. When we ordered our '02 DSDP it had an advertised NCC of 5,500#'s. At delivery we found it only had 663#'s of CCC and all of that was on the rear axle, front was overweight if I filled the propane and fuel tank BEFORE we loaded anything aboard or even got ourselves aboard.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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06-18-2017, 03:08 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,797
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The war of words can be found by using SEARCH (in the title bar at the top of the page), and an entry like "Class A vs Class C", or any variation. There will be lots of valuable information, and some claims that their solution should your solution.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo
You will start a war of words over which is better... only YOU can decide that for YOU...
good luck
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__________________
George Schweikle Lexington, KY
2005 Safari (Monaco)Trek 28RB2, Workhorse W20, 8.1, Allison 1000 5 spd, UltraPower engine & tranny, Track bars & sway bars, KONI FSD, FMCA 190830, Safari Int'l. chapter. 1999 Safari Trek 2830, 1995 Safari Trek 2430, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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