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Old 03-23-2013, 05:51 PM   #43
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Plus, you dont have to paint the trailer. I just had custom vinyl graphics made for my race car trailer to match my MH graphics. $800 for them to do the design work and create the full-side graphics and a smaller set for the rear door on a 24' trailer. They're a perfect match and look great. If you ever decide to sell the trailer you can take the graphics off in a couple of hours using a heat gun.

If you get an aluminum enclosed trailer, like a Featherlight, they only weigh a little more than a steel open trailer.
You would surprised how heavy a Featherlite really is. I have owned three and did not buy them for weight savings. Living by the ocean rust is a real issue, with aluminum, that is eliminated save for the axles and hitch.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:13 PM   #44
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I do
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:20 PM   #45
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If you ever decide to sell the trailer you can take the graphics off in a couple of hours using a heat gun.
If you've ever removed the graphics after a few years in the sun, you will find that the exposed paint has weathered and faded and that under the graphics hasn't so you still have them showing.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:26 PM   #46
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If you've ever removed the graphics after a few years in the sun, you will find that the exposed paint has weathered and faded and that under the graphics hasn't so you still have them showing.
True statement, but nothing that can't be fixed with a power buffer and some rubbing compound. Last trailer had the graphics on for over 6 years in the Colorado sun. It took an afternoon of elbow grease but once completed you couldn't see a thing.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:40 PM   #47
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Thinking about a smart car 1850lbs inside an 8x12 enclosed trailer , any advice on quality manufactures , things to look for brakes axels etc
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:14 AM   #48
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Try to come up with at least 15" tires and have at least 10" added to the tongue in order to make the issue of tight turns and backing up much more easy. Also get bearing lube zerts. The final issue is the size.....my experience with hauling antique cars over thousands of miles in trailers is that you need a back ramp and an electric winch inside at the front and that the trailer length needs to be at least two feet longer at the front of the car and the back of the when inside. This makes the tie down boomers work.....never use a tie down chain inside but only use boomers. Last thought.....when not towing the trailer we tow a 4X4 Jeep Wrangler with a stow master tow bar and we just toss all the loose gear in the back of the Jeep which tows flat.....best way to go.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:40 AM   #49
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This makes the tie down boomers work.....never use a tie down chain inside but only use boomers.
I recently bought a used haulmark enclosed car carrier and it came without tie downs. I Googled tie down boomers and come up with chains. Are the boomers you use web belts or something different? Suggestions?
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:19 PM   #50
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I can see the many positives of an enclosed trailer as expressed in different posts.

The only negative is that dadgum flat tire seen so often (or so it seems) being changed along the highway. That's a young mans game.

Kerry (sorry my color thing-a-ma-jig stuck)
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:39 PM   #51
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Thinking about a smart car 1850lbs inside an 8x12 enclosed trailer , any advice on quality manufactures , things to look for brakes axels etc
I own an ATC (aluminum trailer company) 8X14 trailer. It is the best trailer I have ever owned. Pricey but worth every penny. We haul our Ford Think and still have a lot of room as the trailer has cabinets and lots and lots of options.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:29 PM   #52
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V nose or flat nose

This is a great thread for learning about the pro's of using an enclosed trailer. I've learned a lot and was wondering if there is any advantage or disadvantage to having a trailer with a v-nose? I mean when you're pulling this behind a 13' high 45' long MH isn't the V-nose just a waste of space?

Also how long should the tongue be in order to eliminate any hitting of the trailer and the MH?
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:50 PM   #53
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This is a great thread for learning about the pro's of using an enclosed trailer. I've learned a lot and was wondering if there is any advantage or disadvantage to having a trailer with a v-nose? I mean when you're pulling this behind a 13' high 45' long MH isn't the V-nose just a waste of space?

Also how long should the tongue be in order to eliminate any hitting of the trailer and the MH?
You will need an extended tongue so why not have the space. Our stacker has a 24' box, 4' V-nose and 2' tongue.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:51 PM   #54
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Also how long should the tongue be in order to eliminate any hitting of the trailer and the MH?

I would be concerned with adding length to the tongue - wouldn't that affect the hitch weight in perhaps a bad way? I guess we'll need an engineer to talk about that concern. I'd like to have a little more length since I did touch the right rear corner of the motor home with the front of the trailer when doing a tight turn around.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:01 PM   #55
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5' tongue on my trailer..I can back tight..almost a 90 degree if need be

Tongue length is a null issue if trailer is loaded properly
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:38 PM   #56
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There are many RV parks that do not have lots of room for a trailer. Some parks you have to back into a spot which barely handles the coach plus the toad cross ways in front of the coach. Some parks will charge you for two spots when you pull in with a big trailer.

Not only that, but a lot of states like California the combined length can not exceed 65'. Over that and if a highway patrol wants to they can give you a ticket.
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