Community Forums

**CountryFit** · 09-28-2014, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

CountryFit,

That board is located in each of your rooftop A/C's not in your 5 Button Comfort Control Center.

Each board has to have the Dip Switches set appropriately otherwise they won't work correctly.

Do you have the manuals for the A/C's and the 5 button CCC?

Dr4Film ----- Richard

Richard, yes i do have the manuals inquired to dometic last week. now it makes a lot of sense to me when reading them. there are two things i am not sure but think so:

(1) for zone 1, corresponding to front unit, there is no dip switch labeled as zone 1, so it defaults on; i just need to make sure to turn off that for "zone 2" here. on the rear unit, i will set "zone 2".

(2) there is a problem on front unit, how to set furnace? from the document diagrams, there is a furnace to be set on front unit, as furnace mode is only available on zone 1 from comfort control center. looking at the document for front unit, it appears to be no "furnace" dip switch. currently my hurricane hydronic heater (similar to aqua-hot equipped on some rvs) has no power, i guess the config may be wrong.

i will climb up to check the configs first thing in the morning. big thanks to all of you!!

**CountryFit** · 09-29-2014, 05:02 PM

well, i went up and opened the lids of a/c units on rooftop, both boards appear correctly configured -
(1) front unit: all switches are off
(2) rear unit: zone 2 is on, all others are off

iisc, these settings are what should be. now i am thinking my control center may be at fault...

Ray,IN · 09-29-2014, 05:19 PM

The major reason a 30A RV is not wired to run both simultaneously is, if both switch on at the same time it WILL trip the pedestal breaker or your main, every time.

dvkiel · 10-10-2014, 03:30 PM

When you want to run the generator do you have to unplug the shore power?

cwit · 10-10-2014, 03:48 PM

Out 2 airs are 8,000 btu's and the rear has a delay start. System works great.

ga traveler · 10-10-2014, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

The major reason a 30A RV is not wired to run both simultaneously is, if both switch on at the same time it WILL trip the pedestal breaker or your main, every time.

Ray: this statement is incorrect. If you have an intellitec shed system, as many Fleetwood products with 30 amp service have, You can run both AC's at one time.

Ray,IN · 10-12-2014, 04:14 PM

gatraveler, go back and re-read the original question that started this topic. The intellitec system is NOT in the topic/question. I was correct for the original question. And yes, you are right, a power management system WILL permit doing so safely.

wa8yxm · 10-13-2014, 05:43 AM

I will point out,, For those who run both A/C's on 30 amps.

Some RV's have a management system that will cycle back and forth between two A/Cs so both run, but only one at a time. These systems are handy but they also eat 12 volts (for their computer) so if you loose 12 volts you loose... everything.

And I mentioned I have Two A/Cs on made in 2005 is 13,500 BTU and 13.5 amps, the other is 2012, 15,000 BTU and 13.5 amps, yes the exact same amps.

Some makes and models are more efficent,, I would think that with modern higher efficiencies it might be possible to get a 13,500 down to as low as 10 amps,, And two of those on 30 amps.... Possible.

Plus they make smaller units, say 7,500,, two of those on 30, also possible.

jamesrxx951 · 10-13-2014, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

I will point out,, For those who run both A/C's on 30 amps.

Some RV's have a management system that will cycle back and forth between two A/Cs so both run, but only one at a time. These systems are handy but they also eat 12 volts (for their computer) so if you loose 12 volts you loose... everything.

And I mentioned I have Two A/Cs on made in 2005 is 13,500 BTU and 13.5 amps, the other is 2012, 15,000 BTU and 13.5 amps, yes the exact same amps.

Some makes and models are more efficent,, I would think that with modern higher efficiencies it might be possible to get a 13,500 down to as low as 10 amps,, And two of those on 30 amps.... Possible.

Plus they make smaller units, say 7,500,, two of those on 30, also possible.

I will have to check the amp draw on my A/C units as I suspect they are twin 13500's. But I power my A/C at home when getting ready for a trip and run the living area A/C with no problems all day. I did forget to turn off the rear A/C and after 15 minutes or so the circuit breaker tripped in the garage (20amp). Took some time to figure out why my coach was all of a sudden kicking that breaker until I found out my rear A/C was turned on. I have a load sharing device for the A/C as you can see LED's showing "Shed". So it was commanding both A/C compressors on at the same time.

aauummm · 10-13-2014, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

I will point out,, For those who run both A/C's on 30 amps.

Some RV's have a management system that will cycle back and forth between two A/Cs so both run, but only one at a time. These systems are handy but they also eat 12 volts (for their computer) so if you loose 12 volts you loose... everything.

And I mentioned I have Two A/Cs on made in 2005 is 13,500 BTU and 13.5 amps, the other is 2012, 15,000 BTU and 13.5 amps, yes the exact same amps.

Some makes and models are more efficent,, I would think that with modern higher efficiencies it might be possible to get a 13,500 down to as low as 10 amps,, And two of those on 30 amps.... Possible.

Plus they make smaller units, say 7,500,, two of those on 30, also possible.

True, I have the two 13.5K BTU high efficiency AC's and they each draw 10 Amps according to the specs (at standard conditions). I've even had them draw less, right around 9 Amps each. We run both all of the time on a 30 Amp service and the EMS doesn't have to shed load very often.