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Old 09-04-2014, 12:28 PM   #29
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Of course the Coach was designed for the tag to be down, now you have over loaded the main rear axle.....
not sure if that is accurate seeing as there are identical 40 foot dynasty's without tag axles and the only real difference would be the tag axle assembly, so yes you are right that it is designed to be down but it is also made without the rear tag assembly with identical axles and capacity other tag, and granted the non tag has a longer wheel base, that has zero to do with stability which is what the question was. Have a look for yourself\

http://www.monacocoach.com//library/...01_Dynasty.pdf

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Old 09-04-2014, 12:44 PM   #30
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I have seen a Monaco Dynasty maneuvering through a campground with the tag raised. I believe you are correct about some Monaco tag units being able to lift the tag axle.
My 07 Beaver (Monaco) automatically lifts the tag when the speed dips below 10-15mph. I can also lift it on my own when sitting.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:16 PM   #31
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[QUOTE=Moxy;2213799]not sure if that is accurate seeing as there are identical 40 foot dynasty's without tag axles and the only real difference would be the tag axle assembly, so yes you are right that it is designed to be down but it is also made without the rear tag assembly with identical axles and capacity other tag, and granted the non tag has a longer wheel base, that has zero to do with stability which is what the question was. Have a look for yourself\

http://www.monacocoach.com//library/...01_Dynasty.pdf

Moxy[/QUOTE

And there weights are identical with the exception of the Tag?
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:18 PM   #32
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If you have to question the stability of a tag coach, you obviously have never driven one. My previous 40' non tag coach had tile floors, oak cabinets, solid counters, all the Bling and was not overloaded on either axle. Our current coach has the same, is 4' longer and has a tag. Same company, but no comparison in ride and handling. After you drive a fully equipped and loaded tag coach for a day, you won't question the stability anymore.
OK.............................
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:41 AM   #33
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[QUOTE=DMTTRANSPORT;2213853]
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not sure if that is accurate seeing as there are identical 40 foot dynasty's without tag axles and the only real difference would be the tag axle assembly, so yes you are right that it is designed to be down but it is also made without the rear tag assembly with identical axles and capacity other tag, and granted the non tag has a longer wheel base, that has zero to do with stability which is what the question was. Have a look for yourself\

http://www.monacocoach.com//library/...01_Dynasty.pdf

Moxy[/QUOTE

And there weights are identical with the exception of the Tag?

if they had the same equipment, same slides they would weight the same except for the tag assembly

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Old 09-05-2014, 12:15 PM   #34
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I'll add that most tags have a bit shorter turning radius than non tags. The drive axle is set forward a bit more, and with the tag lifted, you have a shorter turning radius. (My 40' IFS Country Coach with Tag, can turn in a tighter radius then our T28 Bounder on the non IFS F53 Chassis.) But yes, you do need to account for the rear end swing in these tighter turning situations.

A few cons include: Loss of a full storage bay to accommodate the tag. Two more shocks and tires and air bags to buy/maintain. More weight to the coach.

To me, the Pro's nudged me to the tag. The added stability and a CCC of GT 11,000 pounds made it a slam dunk. And to quote Executive, more often found on RV.Net, "They just look sexy!"

Be good, have fun, be safe,
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Showing my ignorance here, but also searching the threads on tag axles.

What the heck is IFS?
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:53 PM   #35
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Showing my ignorance here, but also searching the threads on tag axles.

What the heck is IFS?

Too many buzzwords to know them all, I just learned what SNAFU stood for after I SWAG'd a road route over some mountains!!! I was not LOL!

IFS is Independent Front Suspension. Most of the newer DP chassis have these now a days. But some 'beam' front ends were still used up into the early 2000's range.

Another thing to check when comparing chassis with IFS, is the Steering Angle capability. I admit I forget the proper buzzword here, but it has to to with how sharp the front wheels can turn. Like 50% angle, or 55% angle. I think I recall the term 'cut angle' used too sometimes. Usually IFS's will have a higher degree of cut angle then beam suspension. But some IFS have more cut then others, dependent upon chassis design. The higher the cut angle. the tighter the overall turning radius can be.

Best,
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:12 PM   #36
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IFS is Independent Front Suspension. Most of the newer DP chassis have these now a days. But some 'beam' front ends were still used up into the early 2000's range. Best, Smitty
As manufacturers integrate Freightliner chassis into their coaches the "Beam" or solid front axle are making a return. Not hard to miss if you look under the front and see a "Beam" connecting the two front wheels it's a "Beam" front axle. Normally the turning radius is not as tight as an IFS and the ride may leave something to be desired as it usually have leaf spring suspension with the "Beam". JMHO
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:15 PM   #37
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My Country Coach 45 has lifting tag for tight quarters but they automatically lower around 8 or 10 mph. I'm not aware of a way to adjust the load capability of the tag.
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Old 09-05-2014, 03:02 PM   #38
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Ah ha.

Ah ha! So the IFS doesn't have anything to do with a Tag axle per se, it's just part of the comment. Whew, thought I was in trouble there for a minute!

What y'all said makes perfect sense. Moving from a 38' FRED to a RED, and, looking for a tag axle, is an educational experience.

Thanks for your comments!
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:56 PM   #39
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I had an 08 Beaver and the tag would raise on its Roadmaster chassis. It would raise above 5 or 10 mph (I can't recall which) and would also automatically lower at the same speed.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:09 AM   #40
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My Country Coach 45 has lifting tag for tight quarters but they automatically lower around 8 or 10 mph. I'm not aware of a way to adjust the load capability of the tag.
When delivered, my coach would automatically dump the tag when going into reverse. I could also dump the tag for a turn with a switch to my left. I had to be below 8 mph and it would automatically re-inflate above 8. That was ridiculous, because it would inflate before I had completed the turn. I had the modules reprogrammed to activate with the directional signal when below 20 mph. They will re-inflate above 20 mph. I also wired it to allow me to inflate the tag whenever I want regardless of speed. All you have to do is break the 12 volt circuit to the dump valves. Sometimes after making a turn in town or a lane change, I might not get up to 20 for several blocks if traffic is heavy. Or turning onto a rough desert road and not being able to get to 20 for a few miles getting back to our dry camping spot. In either case, I inflate them when needed.

For adjusting the bag pressures, I replaced the rear proportioning valves with manual regulator valves with access through the rear engine hatch. I can carry whatever pressure I need to account for the different loads such as towing a trailer or not. I am never overloaded or under loaded on the steer axle and always within the capacities of the drive and tag. I'm probably a little more particular than most when it comes to axle weights, but that's just me.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:38 AM   #41
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Crasher,

Lifting the tag or just taking the pressure off the tag should be reserved for the tightest of turns, like those sometimes encountered in parking. There is no reason to raise the tag for on the road driving, that is precisely why manufacturers installed speed activated lowering or annoying buzzers when the tag is lifted or weight taken off the tag.

When your tag is up or the weight taken off, that weight and some front axle is transferred to the drive axle. In most cases, this puts more weight on the drive axle than it was designed for and more weight on the drive tires than the are typically inflated too. This excess weight is not a big deal when maneuvering at parking lot speeds. Is running at 19 mph for long distances too much on the over weight drive axle or under inflated drive tires? I don't know, but wouldn't do it.

To each their own and FWIW I seldom raise my tag. Yep, I know I scuff the tag tires doing so, but never wear out the tread anyway before the tires are replaced.
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:03 AM   #42
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Crasher,

Lifting the tag or just taking the pressure off the tag should be reserved for the tightest of turns, like those sometimes encountered in parking. There is no reason to raise the tag for on the road driving, that is precisely why manufacturers installed speed activated lowering or annoying buzzers when the tag is lifted or weight taken off the tag.

When your tag is up or the weight taken off, that weight and some front axle is transferred to the drive axle. In most cases, this puts more weight on the drive axle than it was designed for and more weight on the drive tires than the are typically inflated too. This excess weight is not a big deal when maneuvering at parking lot speeds. Is running at 19 mph for long distances too much on the over weight drive axle or under inflated drive tires? I don't know, but wouldn't do it.

To each their own and FWIW I seldom raise my tag. Yep, I know I scuff the tag tires doing so, but never wear out the tread anyway before the tires are replaced.
That would be true if I were overloading the drive axle. However, I have done a lot of weight checks. When the tag is dumped, it still has 20 psi in the bags and they are carrying about 2500#. The drive axle goes up to 22,000# which it is rated for. The rear tires also are not overloaded because, I carry 8-10 psi more than needed for their normal load. The time when you are correct, is when I pull the trailer with a 1500# tongue weight. In that case, I generally inflate the tag between 10-15 mph. After checking with the manufacturer and tire people, I'm confident that it's acceptable.

I understand your point and agree to some extent. Our MH tires will rot before they are worn out, so scuffing around a turn probably does not matter. I got to where I am because initially the steer axle was carrying more than the drive axle. Replacing the proportioning valve with regulators allowed me to get a better distribution of weight between the axles. One thing led to another and now I have control over how I manage the load. Probably not needed by most, but I feel better about it.
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