Will this McGuyver on my slide topper brackets work?

[Forkyfork]

I'll post more details later here is the basics of the problem.

The AE awning brackets wore out where the hexagon tube goes into the bracket leading to a total amount of play at the roller at least 1/2". This contributes to the roller on the slide getting stuck on the slide when running the slide out. I say contributes because I suspect something else is going on but haven't put my finger on it yet.

It appears this has been going on for a while and the PO put silicone on the awning to help it slide better. Found that out trying to get the topper unrolled to replace it.

So here is the problem. We have reservations and we can't reschedule again. They are paid for and we are looking forward to this trip to Myrtle Beach.

My concern is will it affect the awning or the MH if there is more surface to catch the air flowing past because its slightly farther away from the side and lower. I will have to accommodate the anti billow by securing it directly to the bracket and not forgetting to remove it before extending slide.

My question at the moment is the quality of the Mcguyver. Will it pass muster going down the road. It resolved the slide jamming problem until I can order parts.

So until I can either order a whole new assembly or rebuild the one I have. Trying to get by for our trip next week. We took the awning tube and the brackets off the hexagon tube and rotated the brackets away from the slide wall one stop on the hexagon tube. This resulted in moving the roller tube 1" away from the slide. This also dropped the tube down lower than the top edge of the slide. Not the ideal thing for the topper but its only going to go out and back in once.

I will post the pic from my phone after this post. Cant manage to make it work from my computer.

[Forkyfork]

Here is the pic of how far away from slide wall while traveling.

[Dutch Star Don]

"FortyFork"....Trying to understand what the issue is....If I'm guessing right, the awning arm should be vertical, meaning that hexagon is rotating in the bracket. If this is the case, why not rotate the hexagon to the correct position and drive a screw through the bracket and hexagon in two spots on each bracket.

[Waiter21]

That should be ok, With the slide fabric rubbing on the top of the slide might tear the fabric..

I had a similar problem with the hex mount piece getting rounded out. I drilled a hole all the way through the hex tube and the hex mount and installed a stainless steel bolts and self locking nuts on both sides.

[Johndale]

A temporary fix would be put clear gorilla tape over the silicone and put the roller back because it will become a parachute going down the road. The tape will give it a smooth surface and no drag. Being that far out it will not lock the reel.

[Forkyfork]

Originally Posted by Johndale

A temporary fix would be put clear gorilla tape over the silicone and put the roller back because it will become a parachute going down the road. The tape will give it a smooth surface and no drag. Being that far out it will not lock the reel.

I know it won't lock the reel. I have the anti billow lever positioned where I can secure it to the lever arm to prevent it from unraveling.

I think my concern is, will it have any more air pressure than if it were closer to the side? And if it does, as long as the roller can't unroll will it be ok.

I am ok if the topper gets damaged. Im worried about the MH where the topper secures. It came with the MH because the one on it was too short. This one is also too short but longer than the one on it. Its a dometic topper, not the best material anyway.

[rvbiker45]

Take that topper off completely. Replace it with a new version when you get back home.

[Dav L]

I am not seeing that much wear / clearance on either hex fittings.
But the angle looks significant. Almost like the hex needs to be moved to the next hex position to get the awning end more upright / closer to the body. I am assuming the way to do that is to remove the mount from the slide, reclock it, and then reattach it to the body.

The other possibility that isn't as clear in the picture is that the slide mount is pulling away at the top of the mount from the slide? Doesn't look like it, but something to evaluate.

[Forkyfork]

Originally Posted by Dav L

I am not seeing that much wear / clearance on either hex fittings.
But the angle looks significant. Almost like the hex needs to be moved to the next hex position to get the awning end more upright / closer to the body. I am assuming the way to do that is to remove the mount from the slide, reclock it, and then reattach it to the body.

The other possibility that isn't as clear in the picture is that the slide mount is pulling away at the top of the mount from the slide? Doesn't look like it, but something to evaluate.

That is the after picture. The question was will this travel ok as long as it doesn't unfurl.

I moved it away because with it in the original position it is rubbing on the slide as well as jamming. I think the brackets are bent as well as worn. I think its possible the roller is also bent because when closed the roller rubs on the slide wall.

[PJStough]

A better McGuyver would be to get a piece of aluminum 1/4 in thick cut in the same size as the bracket on the motorhome, drill holes to match, and install between the motorhome and the bracket.

[Forkyfork]

Here is the roller before, you can see the bend of the roller. And pics of the roller cap damage.

[Old-Biscuit]

With roller cantilevered out you have created a larger surface area for wind to get up under awning ---this will just increase the air pressure and cause failure/unfurling of awning material


Best option IMHO...remove the topper and go on trip. Upon return replace topper


Slide toppers do nothing to 'seal' slide outs.
Slide outs are designed to seal w/o toppers.........toppers are to limit the debris on top of slide outs and provide some shade on slide out roof to lower heat load


Seals on the slide out handle the sealing of slides when extended/retracted.

[Dav L]

Brackets bent: Do you mean the bracket between the two hex fittings? If so, that doesn't look bent. It just looks like it needs to be reclocked counter clockwise and repinned (I think like DSD suggested). The only problem envisioned is if the 60 degree change would be too much and not give the roller enough gap between the top of the slide exterior.

How does the other side of the roller look? I think if they are both correct, then the gap from tube to body would be consistent front to back of the tube.

EDIT: I have attached a picture of my awning arm. Look at how straight up / down the end attached to the tube. I think yours just needs to be reclocked, potentially on both arms.

[Waiter21]

I thought he was talking about the hex tube, but I guess not..