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Old 10-08-2015, 11:43 AM   #1
Dad
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Winter storge

Have a 350 Cummings with Onan Gen. The Gen runs off the fuel tank for the unit. Based on reading up on winter storage for Cummings it is fill your tank with local fuel after the winter blend is put in. And let it sit. Really no need to start it up, sitting in cold weather will not hurt it. If you do need to start it up it needs to warm up which it has glow plugs and you need to go drive it for awhile.

Then my next question is my Gen says it needs to be run for 2 hours each month. Not that it get's that cold here in Cincinnati, but during the few weeks we do get were the temp is in the teens would it be smart to go out to the storage place and just run the Gen for the 2 hrs. Should that also take care of keeping the batt's charged in the cold?

I plan on blowing out my plumping with air and putting the pink stuff in the pump and all the catches/toilet.

It is stored out side and I have the time to go down and take it out for a drive each week or bi-weekly and let the gen run during that time as well.

First RV so Just figuring out what to do.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:42 PM   #2
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You're on the right track but in my opinion, once you have it parked for the winter, leave it parked. Starting and stoping equipment in winter conditions is never good.
The problem you are going to run into is with the batteries. As long as they are charged, they will not freeze. So, how to maintain the charge?

The best way is to keep the coach plugged in if that is possible. A standard 20A service will do the trick as long as all the other appliances are turned off. This will allow the converter to maintain the batteries.

If you don't have this option, the next best thing is to install a battery cutoff switch on the negative post of the house and chassis batteries so you can completely isolate the batteries. Without a disconnect, there are some parasitic loads that will stay on and drain the batteries within a few days.

Now, if you do choose to run the generator, you can switch the batteries on very easily. I suggest you run it for a Minimum of two hours with as much load as you can turn on. An electric heater or two would help in this regard.
The idea here is to remove any moisture in the windings. In order to do that, it needs to run long enough to heat up and dissipate the condensation you generated by starting it. Otherwise, you do more damage than good.
If it were me, I would take my digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage on a monthly basis and only start the generator if the battery voltage falls to 12.0 volts. You do not want to allow the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts.

Keep an eye on the electrolyte levels and If you need to top off the cells, make sure you run the generator for a longer period to allow the water to change into electrolyte and thus won't freeze.

http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...connect+switch

There is one more option and that is to remove the batteries and store them at home with a trickle charger. For me, that would be the last resort. But, some do exactly that.
Hope this helps,
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
You're on the right track but in my opinion, once you have it parked for the winter, leave it parked. Starting and stoping equipment in winter conditions is never good.
The problem you are going to run into is with the batteries. As long as they are charged, they will not freeze. So, how to maintain the charge?

The best way is to keep the coach plugged in if that is possible. A standard 20A service will do the trick as long as all the other appliances are turned off. This will allow the converter to maintain the batteries.

If you don't have this option, the next best thing is to install a battery cutoff switch on the negative post of the house and chassis batteries so you can completely isolate the batteries. Without a disconnect, there are some parasitic loads that will stay on and drain the batteries within a few days.

Now, if you do choose to run the generator, you can switch the batteries on very easily. I suggest you run it for a Minimum of two hours with as much load as you can turn on. An electric heater or two would help in this regard.
The idea here is to remove any moisture in the windings. In order to do that, it needs to run long enough to heat up and dissipate the condensation you generated by starting it. Otherwise, you do more damage than good.
If it were me, I would take my digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage on a monthly basis and only start the generator if the battery voltage falls to 12.0 volts. You do not want to allow the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts.

Keep an eye on the electrolyte levels and If you need to top off the cells, make sure you run the generator for a longer period to allow the water to change into electrolyte and thus won't freeze.

http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...connect+switch

There is one more option and that is to remove the batteries and store them at home with a trickle charger. For me, that would be the last resort. But, some do exactly that.
Hope this helps,
Thanks, that helps a great deal
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
You're on the right track but in my opinion, once you have it parked for the winter, leave it parked. Starting and stoping equipment in winter conditions is never good.
The problem you are going to run into is with the batteries. As long as they are charged, they will not freeze. So, how to maintain the charge?

The best way is to keep the coach plugged in if that is possible. A standard 20A service will do the trick as long as all the other appliances are turned off. This will allow the converter to maintain the batteries.

If you don't have this option, the next best thing is to install a battery cutoff switch on the negative post of the house and chassis batteries so you can completely isolate the batteries. Without a disconnect, there are some parasitic loads that will stay on and drain the batteries within a few days.

Now, if you do choose to run the generator, you can switch the batteries on very easily. I suggest you run it for a Minimum of two hours with as much load as you can turn on. An electric heater or two would help in this regard.
The idea here is to remove any moisture in the windings. In order to do that, it needs to run long enough to heat up and dissipate the condensation you generated by starting it. Otherwise, you do more damage than good.
If it were me, I would take my digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage on a monthly basis and only start the generator if the battery voltage falls to 12.0 volts. You do not want to allow the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts.

Keep an eye on the electrolyte levels and If you need to top off the cells, make sure you run the generator for a longer period to allow the water to change into electrolyte and thus won't freeze.

http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...connect+switch

There is one more option and that is to remove the batteries and store them at home with a trickle charger. For me, that would be the last resort. But, some do exactly that.
Hope this helps,
Follow up? So if the main thing is not letting the batt drop below 12, I just need to check that regularly and run the gen if needed or each month like the manufacturer says.

I can't plug it in. I want to add some solar trickle charge stuff but that will have to wait until next year.
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