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Old 10-18-2014, 06:41 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by SpursMVP View Post
I see one post indicating not to start the engine; however our mechanic recommends (and we do this) taking her out for a spin each month. Simply starting the diesel and idling isn't enough to keep moisture out of the block so he recommends a good 15-20 mile drive each month to really heat her up. This also keep us from getting flat spots on the tires.
I also do this to avoid having to follow the "storage" procedures in my Freightliner manual. My trips are around 50-75 miles, and somewhere around an hour. Also makes me feel better about changing my oil every spring rather than just before putting it to bed as most people recommend. However, I still do a complete winterization on all of the plumbing.
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:47 AM   #44
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Don't for get the crapper! My first MH a few years ago I could not figure out why the toilet leaked when I took it in the spring. Turns out I forgot to run the antifreeze through the toilet lines.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:31 PM   #45
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We just did winterization on our coach. Didnt know how to bypass the water heater. Few gallons of pink stuff is in the water heater now. Everything else is ok i think.
Should i leave the pink stuff in the water heater or should i empt it? Does it heat to leave till spring?
Thanks.
I would drain the water heater. In preparation for next year, you need to install a hot water tank bypass kit. That will solve that.

The first year we owned our coach, when we winterized I had to fill the hot water tank with the pink stuff because the coach did not have a bypass kit. It took a really long time before the smell and fizzing from the hot water taps was gone. That pink stuff hangs in there a really long time.

When I winterize, I drain all the water. I drain the hot water tank and close the bypass valves. I blow air through the entire system. Then I pump the pink stuff in until it comes pink from every tap. It only takes about three gallons of the pink stuff to do that. Then I drain the entire system.

In the spring, fill with water, run the taps a bit, and we're ready to roll!

Jim
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:25 AM   #46
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I went by and did empty the WH. About 10 gallons of pink stuff was wasted and in there. I know now.
I also turned both house and chase switch off....no security system now.
Only thing I have done is Jacks are not down??
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:44 AM   #47
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Is lowering the jacks a good idea, or recommended, anyone?

I'm asking because this is one I've never heard before.

If the jacks are hydraulic like mine, I'd think this is not a good idea to needlessly expose the inner ram rods to the elements. In some aircraft maintenance procedures the rod would have to be cleaned, and wiped down with Hyd fluid after a long exposure period.

DTW
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:14 AM   #48
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Leave the jacks up.
Drop air suspension.

Make sure you have also flushed outside shower.
After draining the hot water tank make sure no mice
can get into it. Put plug back in loosely.....a reminder in spring
when you fill with water as it will leak.
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:39 AM   #49
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Good point
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:45 PM   #50
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Btw, my coach has (supposed to have) two winterizing switches (one inside next to WH) and one outside by the siphon hose. We did not know how to use the switches to bypass the WH. I have read the manual but it is confusing as the pictures in the manual does not match my coach. If anyone has similar coach (Itasca Meridian36M), and knows how to do this please advise.
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:06 PM   #51
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Btw, my coach has (supposed to have) two winterizing switches (one inside next to WH) and one outside by the siphon hose. We did not know how to use the switches to bypass the WH. I have read the manual but it is confusing as the pictures in the manual does not match my coach. If anyone has similar coach (Itasca Meridian36M), and knows how to do this please advise.
When you say "switches", are you referring to valves? If so, the standard rule for a valve is that the flow is in the direction of the handle. So when a single pipe has a valve installed, the handle "arm" will run along the length of the pipe to indicate that the valve is open (flowing), and the handle will form an "L" shape off the pipe to indicate that the valve is closed and the water is turned off.

When the valve is in a "T" section of pipe, the same rule applies except that the water is not turned off. If the valve handle is running along the top of the "T" (or bottom if the "T" is upside down), then the water flow is similar... across the top of the "T". If the valve handle is running or pointing in the direction of the T's single leg, then that will be the path that the water takes.

The example using the syphon hose in your case is this... and assuming that the syphon hose is coming off the single leg of a "T" connection. If you place the syphon hose is a bucket of water or in a bottle of RV antifreeze, the syphon hose should suck the fluid out of the bucket/bottle when valve handle is lined up with the single leg of the "T". When the valve handle runs along the base of the "T", the fluid in the bucket/bottle will not be drawn.

Now, if all of this applies to you, you will be able to figure out the water heater. Point the valve handle closest to the water heater in a direction that does not line up with the pipe running to the water heater. Your water heater should now be bypassed. If you want to confirm it, bypass the water heater, remove the water heater drain plug, then start the flow of water in the plumbing (after the water heaters has drained any remaining water). You should not get water pouring out of the water heater's drain hole.
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:25 PM   #52
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DeWat, this is the best explanation someone has given. I keep this for next time. I now feel comfortable with winterizing next time.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:22 PM   #53
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I have been RVing in a Class C and A beginning in 1968 and the only winterizing I have done is plug in the electric blanket and fill my flasks with sipping whiskey.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:11 PM   #54
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Ha! "Winterize", for us, means moving our cool-weather clothes from under the bed. ;-)
New to RV'ing but kind of my question/point exactly.
Live in Louisiana and RV stays in a covered, 2 door, insulated building. What do I need to winterize?
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:25 PM   #55
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2001 coachmen mirada. I winterized according to the manual. The only fresh water tank drain I have found is in the control panel by the siphon hose. Is that it or is there another on the tank itself? If so I haven't found it please tell me where it is.
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Old 10-30-2014, 01:01 PM   #56
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I use my compressor from the garage and hook it up to the water tank and blow that out then the city water. I have the piece that hooks up like a tire nozzle and start to blow out the system. I open all faucets and then hit the air. Then start turning off the faucets from the closest to the furthermost away . I blow out the water heater. Same with the drains. Open the drains under the MH and blow them out also. Then close
Then I add anti-freeze (for MH water systems) I put in enough to get it to run thru to each faucet maybe 4 gallons and add a cup to each P-trap drains.
I block open the flapper in the toilet with the cleaner brush.
Might be overboard but why run the risk?
Tim
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