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Old 09-09-2015, 07:58 PM   #1
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Winterize or Special procedures

I live in Dallas Tx. Got a gasser and I would like to park the coach at an RV park 2 min from the house for winter due to my work needing additional space and I would be in it alone... during winter I work 18 hours a day so staying there is smarter several days a week. Here is my question, is something going to freeze if I don't take special precautions? I will be hooked up to shore and city H2O ( I could do my tank water)... Help please
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:33 PM   #2
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Unless you get below freezing for a day or more, probably your tanks would be O.K. Put an incandescent light or two in the wet locker to keep enough warmth to make sure if the wet bay isn't heated by your furnace. The biggest issue you might have is the city water connection. If you leave it hooked up with water in the hose, it could freeze in a few hours. Best to fill on board tank and disconnect and drain the hose. You should leave the water heater on, if it's electric, use that, but even the LP if no electric element to prevent freezing in the area behind the outside grill to the water heater.

If you use portable electric heaters in the RV, be sure the LP furnace runs occasionally, especially if it contributes heat to the wet bay.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:54 AM   #3
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Dallas should be OK. I believe an overnight excursion a few degrees below freezing should be OK. We've seen this in Phoenix a couple times a year, 27-28 at night, then 60 during the day.

Factors

How long does the temperature stay below freezing and how low does the temperature get.

Wind speed, high winds and below freezing temperatures will accelerate water systems freezing.

Are your tanks and plumbing exposed or in closed compartments.

My black and gray tanks hang under my MH and are exposed. My fresh tank and all the fresh plumbing is inside the MH.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:09 AM   #4
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My DW & I lived in Dallas for a long time. You will see a 2 or 3 periods during a winter where you will have to pay attention but nothing to fear. We have stayed in a class c during the 5 day ice storm 2 years ago and also in our last class A although not the current one. Make sure to use the propane furnace on the coldest nights to keep the wet bay from freezing or add an electric heater to that area. The small electric heaters work fine in the coach cabin for the majority of the season. When they forecast a real cold front coming through just fill your water tank and unhook/drain your fill hose. Remember in this part of Texas they make a big deal out of it but it never lasts long. We have never had anything freeze or break while doing this. Also as they tell homeowners open your interior cabinets at night for air circulation and maybe let the hot/cold water drip a small amount. It's not a big problem.


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Old 09-12-2015, 04:20 PM   #5
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We are living in our MH due to wifes contract job. We are in Tulsa, OK so colder than Dallas what we do should help you. We use the smallest electric heater walmart has it fits in the wet bay area and cost less than 20.00 if you do that make sure to get one with manual knobs not digital. If you lose power for a while the digital one has to be reset and turned back on by a person. If you lose power with the manual knobs when power comes back on it does also. Make sure to set it at lowest thermostat setting. That keeps my wet bar area about 45 degrees and we have used it in -7 degree weather. I had to move the camper once and hit the thermostat knob when moving the heater. I knocked it to full on after being back on for a while I checked the indoor/outdoor thermometer that I use to monitor the wet bay temp with and it was 110 degrees in there. I have heard someone complain about using an electric heater in there and melting the plastic because they had the heat too high. Like I said lowest setting is sufficient.

we use an fresh water hose with a built in heater. They are pretty pricey but you can usually plug them into the 20 amp receptacle in your shore power box and then not worry about your fresh water freezing. I also wrap my spicot that the hose hooks to with insulation to keep it from freezing.

We have done that for two winters now and have not had any problems. By using the electric heater in the wet bay we do not have to use the propane heaters in the camper to provide heat for the wet bay. Our AC units are Heat pumps and they keep it warm down to mid thirties. We use an electic heater in the living room and one in the bedroom and that keeps us warm to high teens low twenties. after that is the propane central heaters. If you have a class A you probably have a propane tank that is built in which means when you have to get if filled you have to bring everything in unhook and drive to get propane. Even if it is in the park you will still have to drive to it. We use this Sturgi-Stay Propane Adapter Kits - PPL Motor Homes to hook up to a 100 pound propane bottle. When we get low on propane we just tell the people in the park and they come get the bottle and fill it then bring it back and hook it up. Makes it a lot easier.
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:45 PM   #6
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We are living in our MH due to wifes contract job. We are in Tulsa, OK so colder than Dallas what we do should help you. We use the smallest electric heater walmart has it fits in the wet bay area and cost less than 20.00 if you do that make sure to get one with manual knobs not digital. If you lose power for a while the digital one has to be reset and turned back on by a person. If you lose power with the manual knobs when power comes back on it does also. Make sure to set it at lowest thermostat setting. That keeps my wet bar area about 45 degrees and we have used it in -7 degree weather. I had to move the camper once and hit the thermostat knob when moving the heater. I knocked it to full on after being back on for a while I checked the indoor/outdoor thermometer that I use to monitor the wet bay temp with and it was 110 degrees in there. I have heard someone complain about using an electric heater in there and melting the plastic because they had the heat too high. Like I said lowest setting is sufficient.

we use an fresh water hose with a built in heater. They are pretty pricey but you can usually plug them into the 20 amp receptacle in your shore power box and then not worry about your fresh water freezing. I also wrap my spicot that the hose hooks to with insulation to keep it from freezing.

We have done that for two winters now and have not had any problems. By using the electric heater in the wet bay we do not have to use the propane heaters in the camper to provide heat for the wet bay. Our AC units are Heat pumps and they keep it warm down to mid thirties. We use an electic heater in the living room and one in the bedroom and that keeps us warm to high teens low twenties. after that is the propane central heaters. If you have a class A you probably have a propane tank that is built in which means when you have to get if filled you have to bring everything in unhook and drive to get propane. Even if it is in the park you will still have to drive to it. We use this Sturgi-Stay Propane Adapter Kits - PPL Motor Homes to hook up to a 100 pound propane bottle. When we get low on propane we just tell the people in the park and they come get the bottle and fill it then bring it back and hook it up. Makes it a lot easier.

thanks for the advice... and thanks to all that posted....
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:22 PM   #7
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We live in Hickory NC. We want to be able to get away a few trips this winter and go South where it is warmer. My dilemma is how to protect the class A from freezing and we really don't want to winterized the coach. We have a heater in the wet bay. I was also thinking of putting a small one in basement. But, what do I do with water heater and washer / dryer which are located in the rear of the coach??
I plan on blowing all the lines out, but , will that cover me on hot water heater and W/D?
Will also put a heater inside the coach and open all cabinet doors.
Thank you for your feedback.


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Old 09-13-2015, 06:32 AM   #8
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And another advantage of full timing is NO winterizing, we head south.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:47 AM   #9
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And another advantage of full timing is NO winterizing, we head south.

Amen.


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Old 09-13-2015, 02:08 PM   #10
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I'm still working, taking care of an elderly mom which is in an extended living facility and so we can just head South full time. So, what to do???


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Old 09-13-2015, 02:17 PM   #11
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I'm still working, taking care of an elderly mom which is in an extended living facility and so we can just head South full time. So, what to do???


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IF you park with shore hook up, even 15 amps, you can run incandescent light bulbs or one small heater. You might drain and blow out your washer and maybe ice maker in fridge if so equipped. You could also drain and blow out the hot water lines. Re install the plug and when you want to use the RV for a weekend you could fill and use the water heater if you wish.

Not everyone can go south, Florida would sink into the ocean if they did.
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Old 09-13-2015, 02:32 PM   #12
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We live in Asheville, NC. I blow out my water lines and put anti-freeze in drains usually sometime in December. You need to make sure you take your time and get all the water out. As for the wh, you need to drain it or leave it on. You should drain it at least yearly and replace the anode rod if it has one. Can't help much with the w/d as we don't have one. I have read that you need to run it through a few spin cycles to get water out, but have no personal experience. Make sure you disconnect the water lines and blow them out as well as putting antifreeze in the drain line. Also don't forget the icemaker water line if you have one. It usually takes me an hour or so to winterize. Have used this method for ten years successfully. We also sometimes go out in January and February, but don't necessarily winterize again. Just keep the heat on around 50 and maybe a heater in the wet bay.
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:22 PM   #13
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Thank you all so much. Kinda what I was thinking, but needed some experience to confirm my thoughts. My only worry is the w/d which I haven't any drain lines for, as they are built into the cabinetry, but I do believe there is a trap door in the closet I need to get down and look into. Again thanks for your input. Blessings..


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