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Old 08-11-2016, 10:08 PM   #15
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As someone else mentioned, I dont see why they even install low point drains. If you run the pink stuff through, it shouldnt be an issue. Perhaps a plumber could enlighten us.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:48 AM   #16
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Wow, a lot of folks using huge amount of anti freeze. Instead of flushing with the pink stuff, i like to use the windsheild washer fluid, half the price.
mojoracing
I use less than a gallon of RV antifreeze when winterizing because I don't use ANY antifreeze in the fresh water system.

I simply gravity drain everything and use a cupful of pink stuff in the tub drain and each of the 3 P-traps... 2 cups-full in the Splendide washer drain pump.

BTW that's not my recommendation.... just what I do!

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Old 08-12-2016, 07:48 AM   #17
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Thanks to all.

Thank you all for your insight, I really appreciate it and feel 'more' at ease.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:01 AM   #18
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"Once we get to our destination - and get everything hooked up ... we run the fresh tank dry", I presume you mean leave the faucets open and drain into the hold tank.

I have not seen anyone post or read anywhere that you can hook a hose up to the fresh water drain to put it down a 'street' drain somewhere.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:37 AM   #19
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"Once we get to our destination - and get everything hooked up ... we run the fresh tank dry", I presume you mean leave the faucets open and drain into the hold tank.
I have not seen anyone post or read anywhere that you can hook a hose up to the fresh water drain to put it down a 'street' drain somewhere.
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To "run the fresh tank dry", (aka: empty the water tank), methinks most RV owners simply open the tank drain and let the water run out onto the ground.
(That's how I do it).
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:25 AM   #20
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On the 5er I used to blow out the lines with a compressor set to 45 lbs.

Set the HW tank bypass on and remove the anode to let the tank drain. Hook up the compressor to the city water connection and add air. Open each tap and low point in order to blow out any water. Repeat several times until no water or spray comes out.

I then would close everything (except HW tank) and add pink to the system through a fitting between the water pump and the water tank. Open each tap and low point until pink appeared.

Overkill - absolutely. Water leaks - NO = priceless.

Summerizing was simple. Hook up to city water run water through each tap and low point until no evidence of pink was visible (if unsure take a small taste, if so run more water), put the anode in the HW tank, set the bypass to off and the tank will fill.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:27 AM   #21
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On the 5er I used to blow out the lines with a compressor set to 45 lbs.

Set the HW tank bypass on and remove the anode to let the tank drain. Hook up the compressor to the city water connection and add air. Open each tap and low point in order to blow out any water. Repeat several times until no water or spray comes out.

I then would close everything (except HW tank) and add pink to the system through a fitting between the water pump and the water tank. Open each tap and low point until pink appeared.

Overkill - absolutely. Water leaks - NO = priceless.

Summerizing was simple. Hook up to city water run water through each tap and low point until no evidence of pink was visible (if unsure take a small taste, if so run more water), put the anode in the HW tank, set the bypass to off and the tank will fill.

5er used to use less than a gallon of pink. Coach has never been winterized. More critical with the Aqua Hot system and thetford macerating toilets. Lots of pink will be required. Have been dodging the bullet by heading south sooner and returning later. If in doubt I turn the heat on when at home.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:44 AM   #22
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Wow, a lot of folks using huge amount of anti freeze. Instead of flushing with the pink stuff, i like to use the windsheild washer fluid, half the price.
Washer fluid is some form of denatured alcohol mixed with water. It will cause brain and other bodily damage if it does not just kill you. The pink stuff is also sold in as a food additive and a common,highly effective, laxative.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:10 AM   #23
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I did like Norman suggested in post #10, and the first year I made an appointment with a RV repair shop to winterize the coach, with the explicit agreement that I would be able to observe, and ask questions. Additionally, from reading on here, I learned to do a three step process. Step 1, drain everything that can be gravity drained, my coach has low point drains. Step 2, I hook an air compressor set at 40PSI to the water system, and open and close all faucets several times. ( I am always amazed that when I repeat the process after ten minutes I still get water out of some that I thought were dry.) Hook up the pink stuff and fill all piping ( water heater bypassed ), and dump pink stuff in traps and toilet. I know that the process is overkill, but I am a firm believer that an ounce of caution is worth at least a pound of cure.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:16 AM   #24
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Another great resource for all newer owners is the RV Geeks website. Google it and they have great video walk thrus on everything you could ask for.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:23 AM   #25
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I Step 2, I hook an air compressor set at 40PSI to the water system, and open and close all faucets several times. ( I am always amazed that when I repeat the process after ten minutes I still get water out of some that I thought were dry.).

That is precisely why you can not just gravity drain the lines. I know it could never happen, but what if one of your water lines has a slight sag, water will drain back into it and freeze over the winter. Come summer you have a broken water line and when you put pressure to it you have a flooded coach. I know some people brag they can do a winterization with 1 or 2 gallons of AF, and that may work most of the time, but I would rather be sure I had enough to do it right the first time, I do not need a rolling swimming pool and all the damage it will do, particularly when I have to tear into the walls to find the fountain.
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:11 PM   #26
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That is precisely why you can not just gravity drain the lines. I know it could never happen, but what if one of your water lines has a slight sag, water will drain back into it and freeze over the winter. Come summer you have a broken water line and when you put pressure to it you have a flooded coach. I know some people brag they can do a winterization with 1 or 2 gallons of AF, and that may work most of the time, but I would rather be sure I had enough to do it right the first time, I do not need a rolling swimming pool and all the damage it will do, particularly when I have to tear into the walls to find the fountain.
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If/when water in a slight sag in a RV water line freezes it will not necessarily crack or break the water line... if the line has been drained properly, (aka: not FULL of water).

That's a chance I have taken when winterizing , (with NO cracks, breaks or floods), for the 20 years I've owned my coach.
(I'm not "bragging" or suggesting you or anyone else do what I do).

BTW for the last 13 years I've winterized my coach TWICE each year for storage in freezing weather.
Once before driving south for the winter in late Nov... and again before returning to Wisconsin in late March.

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Old 08-12-2016, 01:09 PM   #27
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^^ Me Too.

I use less than 2 gallons per winterization.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:27 PM   #28
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Washer fluid is some form of denatured alcohol mixed with water. It will cause brain and other bodily damage if it does not just kill you. The pink stuff is also sold in as a food additive and a common,highly effective, laxative.
I ws just getting ready tochime in on that one. All is fine and dandy as long as all the stuff is flushed properly. To me the small cost of rv antifreeze pales in comparison to one's health, or the price of the rv in the first place.
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