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Old 08-15-2016, 06:25 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by mel s View Post
LETMGROW
When I say I simply GRAVITY DRAIN EVERYTHING in my fresh water system... that means EVERYTHING...(including the water pump, etc.).

BTW the more I read that I HAVE TO at least "blow out the lines" the more I wonder WHY and HOW "gravity draining everything" HAS WORKED when winterizing my coach for 20 years.

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I wasn't trying to offend you. Obviously the method you use works well with your camper. The point I was making is I don't know IF it would work on my MH. Perhaps it would but I don't want to take the chance on mine.
Lynn
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:05 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
I wasn't trying to offend you. Obviously the method you use works well with your camper. The point I was making is I don't know IF it would work on my MH. Perhaps it would but I don't want to take the chance on mine.
Lynn
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No offense taken.
We all winterize using what ever method we're confidant in, (and comfortable with).
Mel
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:37 AM   #45
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Winterizing

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Originally Posted by mojoracing View Post
Wow, a lot of folks using huge amount of anti freeze. Instead of flushing with the pink stuff, i like to use the windsheild washer fluid, half the price.
I only use the blue windshield washer fluid (-32*) for the P-traps and the two holding tanks. I use the pink RV antifreeze solution for everything else.

I also use compressed air (not to exceed 45psi) at the city water inlet with the hot and cold water drain lines initially open. Then I close the hot and cold drain valves. While still having air pressure I open each sink faucet and capture any remaining water into a small container. I do the same with the shower and the wet bay. I flush the toilet once or twice to clear the water line.

Since the hot water heater is bypassed using the tee valve arrangement, its not an issue other than draining the tank and flushing out any calcium buildup.

I haven't figured out yet how to clear the lines for the refrigerator ice maker and the washing machine. (Any ideas?)
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:11 AM   #46
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FYI:
Sept issue of MotorHome Magazine has a 5 pg feature on "Winterizing and Winter Storage Prep". Good info on ice maker and washing machine. Touches on critter control as well. We use the Jimmy Buffett winterizing procedure, highly recommend it....
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:27 PM   #47
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After reading through a lot of these posts, I have to add a little more fuel to the fire. My winterizing procedure is to drain all of the tanks. I drain the hot water heater and leave the plug out. I bypass the hot water heater and the fresh water tank. I then use the water pump to pump approx. 2 gals of pink antifreeze thru all of my fresh water lines, making sure that it comes out of each appliance as I do this. I follow the manufacturers instructions when winterizing the washer/dryer and the icemaker. I see absolutely no reason to use 10/12 gallons of antifreeze when all of the lines are full and running pink on less than two gallons.
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:20 PM   #48
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...... I see absolutely no reason to use 10/12 gallons of antifreeze when all of the lines are full and running pink on less than two gallons.

Each coach has its own requirement based upon the plumbing and appliances installed. One coach may require 2 gallons, others may require more or less. Some people add additional pink stuff to their fresh water tank, I use 15 gallons to be sure I have enough to pump through our complete system without causing foaming in the pink stuff and reuse the excess amount the next time I winterize, so my total usage each year is 4 gallons. We all have differing coaches, one solution does not fit all, that is why there are differing solutions provided above. For example I have a Hydro Hot that does not get drained, the domestic water coils (that run through boiler anti freeze) get filled with the pink stuff.

The threads in this forum are an expression of differing methods for differing coaches. Each of us need to make our own decisions on the right amount pink stuff to use in our coach. Every differing method described helps the readers to determine how to winterize their own RV.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:13 AM   #49
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The threads in this forum are an expression of differing methods for differing coaches. Each of us need to make our own decisions on the right amount pink stuff to use in our coach. Every differing method described helps the readers to determine how to winterize their own RV.
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I agree.
There are lots of RIGHT WAYS to winterize.
The only WRONG WAY is when freezing weather causes something to break or malfunction.
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Old 08-19-2016, 03:29 PM   #50
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FWIW I can add that I have no beef with Mel and his low point drains but I can say that would not work with our old RV or our current one. Too many places for water to collect including the HW bypass. The way some of the valves are placed the core will not drain by gravity. I will add that I tend to be a bit of belt and suspenders about this kind of problem because I am not 100% sure of every move I make. Doing a light blowout folllowed by pink stuff gives me two chances at every valve. Either the air or the antifreeze will do the job. Getting the water out first keeps from diluting the anti freeze.
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:07 PM   #51
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I was doing north south multiple times between Nov and April. Complete was a given but I also wanted fast, easy, and "urgency" backup. Built a tank for wet bay to hold antifreeze and left hooked up to diverter valve. Draining was fast and easy (valve for water heater) . Flipped diverter and ran pump to put antifreeze into everything (except water heater). Left ready so that if needed could turn on pump and run antifreeze as a water substitute for "urgencies". Tank held 8 gallons, plenty enough, install or remove tank is about 3 minutes.
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:33 AM   #52
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FWIW I can add that I have no beef with Mel and his low point drains but I can say that would not work with our old RV or our current one. Too many places for water to collect including the HW bypass. The way some of the valves are placed the core will not drain by gravity. I will add that I tend to be a bit of belt and suspenders about this kind of problem because I am not 100% sure of every move I make. Doing a light blowout folllowed by pink stuff gives me two chances at every valve. Either the air or the antifreeze will do the job. Getting the water out first keeps from diluting the anti freeze.
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There's nothing wrong about that.
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:56 AM   #53
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:20 AM   #54
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Remember to use air and blow out your black tank rinsers. When done , pull the washer screen an use your finger to push in the valve to clear any remaining water / including fresh water inlet.


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Old 08-21-2016, 11:26 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by mojoracing View Post
As someone else mentioned, I dont see why they even install low point drains. If you run the pink stuff through, it shouldnt be an issue. Perhaps a plumber could enlighten us.

The anti freeze will not simply "push" the water out. It will mix with the water, leaving "diluted" antifreeze in place. Flushing with more anti freeze will reduce this risk... But easier to get the water out of there by draining then use less antifreeze to fill the lines
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:58 PM   #56
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Great advice!
I'm a newbie and looking to put my (baby) 1998 Tiffin Allegro into storage for winter... OR Not. Inside storage, non-heated, will be about $900 in Minnesota. Outside is free, but of course I'll need a cover (I have seen on ebay for less than $400). I understand that winters, especially MN winters are hard on tires? Tire covers, yes, but any input as to whether I should winterize, get motorhome and tire covers OR put inside...??
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