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Old 10-13-2014, 12:44 PM   #1
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Winterizing Refrigerator with ice maker

I have been trying to follow the information in the owners manual and Dometic refrigerator owners manual to blow out the sol. valve on the ice maker but I cannot find a way to energize it. I tried turning on the refrigerator and cycling the ice make bar to no avail. I don't want to wait a month to get it into a dealer to replace the valve because it got damaged during a freeze. The line to the ice maker is dry and the feed to the sol. is dried. Anyone know how to do this. both manuals say this has to be done by an authorized service tech???? Help!!
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:33 PM   #2
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Wish I had an answer for you but I'm not sure. Posting this so I can follow the answers coming in on this subject thread!

My lazy fix was a light bulb placed in back of refrigerator during the week or two of really cold temperature.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:54 PM   #3
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Vetterod, I am faced with doing this on my Dometic ice maker for the first time also. I've read the instructions and know that I need to have power to the fridge 110vac, ice bail arm down, find and turn some screw on the ice maker to force it to call for water, which will trigger the solenoid while I am prepared to have pressurized air attached.
I'm thinking that I will simply look to see how hard it is to just remove the solenoid.. I don't plan to use any air pressure elsewhere in the coach as I will just be drawing pink into it.

Sorry to make you read an unhelpful post. Someone will chime in because I'm sure someone else has done this many times.
My previous coach was a 1998 chieftain with an ice maker. Its directions never mentioned blowing the solenoid out and after 4 years, no problem. Gets cold enough here in indiana so that was just luck. I agree I should worry about that solenoid, no doubt.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:05 PM   #4
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You can energize the solenoid by applying 120V across it to open the valve. (or valves if you also have a water dispenser). Follow the 120 volt cord to a pair of connectors disconnect from the black and use a short wire to run the 120 to the solenoid.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:12 PM   #5
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You can energize the solenoid by applying 120V across it to open the valve. (or valves if you also have a water dispenser). Follow the 120 volt cord to a pair of connectors disconnect from the black and use a short wire to run the 120 to the solenoid.
Is there any chance someone can take and post a picture of this? Thanks!

I don't like playing with 120v and don't want to short out a solenoid.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:37 PM   #6
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Taking this all in and tomorrow I will try out the suggestions and see how this works
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:57 PM   #7
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The simple way.. With water still in the lines,, Open the low point valves and force a manual cycle of the ice maker.. When the valve opens gravity will "SUCK" (Literately) the water out.. Yes, Gravity sucks. (elsewhere that is a take off on a joke, Gravity is a myth, the Earth Sucks).

Page 2.

Simply disconnect the hoses and wires from it and take it in the house.
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:15 PM   #8
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I tried to winterize my Dometic by reading the manual...never did figure it out. However, I have very reliable power at my storage facility, so I put two trouble lights with 60w bulbs in them in back of the refrig on the outside. It's been okay to 10 degrees.
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:42 PM   #9
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I just disconnect the water lines out of and into the
solenoid and let everything drain. Worked for five years so far.
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:27 PM   #10
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I just disconnect the water lines out of and into the
solenoid and let everything drain. Worked for five years so far.
+1 If you don't want to do it this way and since you already have the water lines removed, disconnect the power leads and remove the valve completely
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:18 AM   #11
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Opening valves

Two pictures from my refrigerator solenoid/valves to water dispenser and ice maker.

First picture shows the label which clearly states the solenoid runs on 120V (never seen one that ran on 12, but you need to check). This picture also shows the incoming water tube (gray) and the two tubes going up to the refrigerator. Note that the latter two are encapsulated with a heating coil which heats the valve(s) and the pipes if your coach is plugged in and 12 volts is present. If you have 12 volts present, you do not need to do more.

The second picture shows the two sets of wires going to the two solenoids, white is neutral and other is 120v coming from icemaker. You need to disconnect these wires and apply 120V. You can use an old power cord and just crimp two connectors. The 120V outlet is right nearby. You obviously need to be doing this while you are pushing air through the system. As you apply the voltage to the solenoid, you will hear the air coming out at the icemaker and water dispenser.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:33 AM   #12
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HHIDan thanks for pics, now you say the solenoid does not need drained if 12v is present due to heating coil. I keep my rig plugged in when stored and just keep eye on battary water level. I do turn off and empty the fridge so I don't know if that turns heater coil off or not. Does anyone know?
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:45 AM   #13
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icemaker winterizing

looks like the 120 volt jumper looks to be my best bet After the rain stops that will be the next shot. All these comments really help with the issue..
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:04 PM   #14
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HHIDan thanks for pics, now you say the solenoid does not need drained if 12v is present due to heating coil. I keep my rig plugged in when stored and just keep eye on battary water level. I do turn off and empty the fridge so I don't know if that turns heater coil off or not. Does anyone know?
The best way is to measure with your voltmeter, too many variables... And I suppose if anything turns the 12 volts off, one could install a wire straight to batteries with a on-off switch...
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