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Old 01-09-2015, 09:37 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw View Post
I have this connector but it leaks like crazy! It seems the quick-connect fitting on here is not compatible with the quick-connect on my hoses. Are there different standards or something? My hoses don't leak with any of my other standard tools. The fitting on this item appears to be longer and slightly thinner. I end up having to fill my compressor several times to blow out my lines.
Looks like a standard Schrader fitting. That's what mine is. You should be able to replace you quick connect with the female side.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:44 AM   #16
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Get the adapter that bokobird suggested. With that connector it will be a one man job because you screw it onto your city water inlet. The other types linked you will need someone holding the air to it and someone opening the faucets one at a time. Go into your RV and open one faucet. Go back out and turn on compressor. Back into the RV and one by one open and close each faucet, hot and cold until only air comes out. Don't forget to flush the toilet and hold open the valve until no water comes out. Shower and outside shower if you have one. If your rig has an ice maker in the freezer that too will need to be winterized. I also add about 3/4 gallon of pink stuff to insure that my water pump is winterized along with toilet valve which I blew once by not doing a good job. Disconnect your shower hose an let it drain, you may leave it un-hooked all winter, I do.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by memphisflyer View Post
If you are blowing out all the lines, there is no need for the pink stuff except for your traps and possibly your pump. I set my compressor regulator to 40psi so there is no way to over pressurize the system. This has worked fine for several years.
I've winterized my coach twice a year for 14 years... (once in the fall before traveling to the warm south in Dec... and again before returning to Wisconsin in March).
The following is how I winterize....NOT my recommendation... (we all winterize in a manner we are comfortable with).

I simply completely "gravity drain" everything in my fresh water system. (and use RV antifreeze in the p-traps and Splendide washer drain pump).
I have never used compressed air to "blow out the lines", or used or RV antifreeze in the water system, (but I do put a cup full of RV anti freeze in the p-traps, the Splendide washer drain pump, and a few cups full in the waste tanks).
My coach has often lived in temps as low as -20 degrees F and nothing in my coach has ever suffered "freeze damage".

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Old 01-09-2015, 10:32 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw View Post
I have this connector but it leaks like crazy! It seems the quick-connect fitting on here is not compatible with the quick-connect on my hoses. Are there different standards or something? My hoses don't leak with any of my other standard tools. The fitting on this item appears to be longer and slightly thinner. I end up having to fill my compressor several times to blow out my lines.
There are two different types of connectors, industrial and automotive and they aren't compatible. Since the Amazon Camco link says, "automotive" I assume it's an automotive style male fitting. If you take the part in your pocket to a place that sells air tool fittings you should be able to match it up with a compatible female chuck.
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:55 PM   #19
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I do as Gordon does works great. I also drain black and grey tanks before I use pink af. So I can have af sitting at the valve faces. There are different styles of air fittings and they are not interchangeable bummer. Do not use the air compressors sold to blow up tires, lots of pressure, but no volume. No matter what they show on youtube videos. Air can gurgle by low points.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:00 PM   #20
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Don't forget to blow out the black water tank flush line, too! \ken
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:15 PM   #21
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If you have a Hydro Hot/Aqua Hot, blowing out lines will STILL leave about 1.5 gallons in the Aqua Hot. Enough to freeze and damage the unit which would require an expensive repair.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyClaw View Post
I have this connector but it leaks like crazy! It seems the quick-connect fitting on here is not compatible with the quick-connect on my hoses. Are there different standards or something? My hoses don't leak with any of my other standard tools. The fitting on this item appears to be longer and slightly thinner. I end up having to fill my compressor several times to blow out my lines.
Yes, there are different size quick connect fittings, some larger, some smaller. Sounds like you use the larger fittings.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:33 PM   #23
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To regulate the pressure, I use the brass pressure regulator for the water hose that is about ten dollars at Walmart. Simply screw the brass regulator into the water inlet valve and hook up the quick disconnect. As long as you use the regulator, it will hold the pressure at 45 or 55 psi. (according which regulator you use.) I used the industrial air compressor at the shop every year and never had a blown line or a frozen line in fifteen years.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:41 PM   #24
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Instead of a water regulator, for under $5 you can get one that even has a gauge:

150 PSI Air Compressor Regulator Kit with Gauge
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:06 PM   #25
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I've winterized my coach twice a year for 14 years... (once in the fall before traveling to the warm south in Dec... and again before returning to Wisconsin in March).
The following is how I winterize....NOT my recommendation... (we all winterize in a manner we are comfortable with).

I simply completely "gravity drain" everything in my fresh water system. (and use RV antifreeze in the p-traps and Splendide washer drain pump).
I have never used compressed air to "blow out the lines", or used or RV antifreeze in the water system, (but I do put a cup full of RV anti freeze in the p-traps, the Splendide washer drain pump, and a few cups full in the waste tanks).
My coach has often lived in temps as low as -20 degrees F and nothing in my coach has ever suffered "freeze damage".

Mel
'96 Safari Sahara
I am amazed that u have been so lucky not to have sustained freeze damage because you are technically not winterizing properly.
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:44 PM   #26
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I've winterized my coach twice a year for 14 years... (once in the fall before traveling to the warm south in Dec... and again before returning to Wisconsin in March).
The following is how I winterize....NOT my recommendation... (we all winterize in a manner we are comfortable with).

I simply completely "gravity drain" everything in my fresh water system
. (and use RV antifreeze in the p-traps and Splendide washer drain pump).
I have never used compressed air to "blow out the lines", or used or RV antifreeze in the water system, (but I do put a cup full of RV anti freeze in the p-traps, the Splendide washer drain pump, and a few cups full in the waste tanks).
My coach has often lived in temps as low as -20 degrees F and nothing in my coach has ever suffered "freeze damage".
Mel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monacoach View Post
I am amazed that u have been so lucky not to have sustained freeze damage because you are technically not winterizing properly.
Monacoach
"Technically" you are correct.
I have no argument with those that choose use the technically correct winterizing method, because, as we all know, it works too.
(That's why I don't recommend what I have found to be a faster, easier, less expensive, perfectly safe way to winterize my coach to anyone)
Mel
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:00 PM   #27
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mel s, your system probably works because you have plumbing that actually drains pretty completely when the gravity drains are opened. Many have runs of plumbing that allows water to pool in low spots that don't drain properly. You're lucky, parking at any slight angle could cause water to pool somewhere and you'd be looking for a leak behind a bulkhead somewhere.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:14 PM   #28
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I use a plastic thing I get at most any RV store/department (including Wal*Mart) white with hose threads and a small nipple covered with a black plastic cap,

Remove cap, attach Tire end of air hose.

I also have an adapter with a coupler built in but .. Where is it?

Limit pressure to 50-60 PSI if using the home made coupler type. You can go a bit higher with the little plastic thing provided all valves are open.

Just blew one out

Suggestion: Blow, have a cup of whatever and blow again, LIke 10 times (though you should not drink that much coffee/coca/other stuff in that short a period)

Reason, Some folks worry about the bit of water remaining settling (It will not do any damage) you greatly reduce that amount by doing multiple blows.
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