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Old 03-27-2016, 07:45 PM   #15
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I am 100% on board. Almost excited about doing it now lol
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:25 PM   #16
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Where in Mississippi or surrounding states can the seal tech leak test be done?
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswj110 View Post
Where in Mississippi or surrounding states can the seal tech leak test be done?
If you spend some time with Google, you might find someone. Other than that, I'd call some rv repair places and ask
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:55 PM   #18
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OK, I'm not sure where I saw it, but, I recall someone MacGyvering a homemade Seal Tech solution.

My recollection is that MacGyver used a leaf blower and a home made shroud in a roof vent. Using the LOWEST velocity/volume setting on the leafblower and a spray bottle of soap solution, he was able to locate leaks.

BE CAREFUL!!!!

I have no idea, exactly, how much pressure differential a typical leaf blower is capable of producing. Just be aware that, if you have a single pane front windshield (roughly 4' X 8') that is 4,608 square inches of surface area. IF your leaf blower is capable of blowing enough air through your roof vent to generate just 1 pound per square inch (psi) of differential pressure, that's more than 2 TONS of pressure trying to blow out your windshield. For reference, when you're "flying the friendly skies", the typical pressure differential between the inside and outside of your airplane is about 8 psi.

BE CAREFUL if you decide to try this yourself.

Take care,
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:33 PM   #19
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sealtechusa.com
has a page with testing locations, another explaining how it works. I think it pressurizes the RV interior to 2psi best I can remember.

I had a link to that leafblower jerry-rig but is is now dead. I suspect it did not work, or if it did it filled the RV with 2-cycle engine exhaust/smoke fumes.....
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Old 03-28-2016, 02:27 AM   #20
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You know where the leak is at, why not divert the water. In your photo, there is a rubber rain gutter, (that sticks on) just above your door. It's also used as an eyebrow above the Monaco windshields.

I would buy a length of the eyebrow material, still available via Monaco parts, that is a few inches longer than your awning. Install it just above the awning, out of view from the ground with the ends protruding an inch or two past the end of the awning. You'll have to cut it where the seem cover angles down behind the awning, but angle it slightly downward in both directions away from that seem. Seal it with silicone at the seam and it should keep the water off of the door.
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:10 AM   #21
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When I had my test done, it pinpointed the leak (not where I thought it was coming from), but more importantly, it showed other areas that were leaking, but water was not intruding into the coach.

I am glad I had it done. It headed off potential future problems.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:19 AM   #22
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You will see it leaking around window tracks and other things that will not cause rain water leaks. It's all the others that you find that is amazing. I love watching the guys do the test. Down south, I know that General RV has two locations in Florida that do the test.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:44 AM   #23
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After the recent rain storms I found two leaks that I could not find. I took the RV to my local dealer for the sealteck procedure. 2 hrs cost at $120 hrs plus material when they found the leaks. One week later picked it up and took it home and the next day it rained again. It leaked again in just one place this time. I took it back to the dealer and they just didn't understand why it leaked. $579 later I only have one leak and they are going to try again next week to find it. I hope I don't have a fight over having to pay again to get the job done right Sealteck is good but the tecks have to do their job for it to work.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:58 PM   #24
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You know where the leak is at, why not divert the water. In your photo, there is a rubber rain gutter, (that sticks on) just above your door. It's also used as an eyebrow above the Monaco windshields.

I would buy a length of the eyebrow material, still available via Monaco parts, that is a few inches longer than your awning. Install it just above the awning, out of view from the ground with the ends protruding an inch or two past the end of the awning. You'll have to cut it where the seem cover angles down behind the awning, but angle it slightly downward in both directions away from that seem. Seal it with silicone at the seam and it should keep the water off of the door.
That stick-on "J" channel is available at most RV accessories stores. I bought a package to put on my MH from a local RV repair and accessory shop.
This would be a band-aid instead of permanently stopping the leak though.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:27 PM   #25
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The 2006 Monaco Knight that I owned had a leak above the door at the same location as you that I am convinced was not fixable. I tried everything and after speaking with many Monaco and Holiday Rambler owners it is a common theme. Other than that darn leak, loved the coach.....Good luck!
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:13 AM   #26
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Water leaks...... they are one of the hardest things to deal with in any size or kind of RV. Look at you door seal system. How is the door frame "sealed" to the coach. Yes I know, this is a pain in the arse. Just smearing some silicon over the top of a seam is not going to stop a leak. Most Moho's are subject to intense twisting and vibration so they are sealed with either putty tape or urethane caulking. You'd think this stuff would be a perfect "seal", but then along comes some fool with a 1800 psi pressure washer trying to clean the dirt and vegi growth from the top of a door or window and wallah!!!! you have a pin hole leak in your door frame seal. "door frame seal" is not the correct name and a bit misleading. It is actually a door gasket that is compressed between two surfaces. If dirt builds up on top of this "gasket" and is vibrated down into the gasket, it will create pin holes in the gasket. So, the best thing to do, when the coach is new, is to protect the gasket by running a bead silicon along the outside seam as a way to prevent dirt from getting to the gasket. That said, the only way to repair the gasket is to pull the door and frame and replace the gasket. Same with windows and side seams. No fun and at least a days work.


When I install roof fixtures, vents, antenna's and such I always triple seal the joint berfore top coating. Huh??? 1st layer silicon, 2nd layer putty tape, 3rd layer silicon, then seal the edge of the fixture with your silicon, finally I use roof coating on the entire roof and seams, 3 coats. Not only does this seal the entire roof, it cools then interior by reflecting the radiant heat. I scrape and close any open cracks yearly. I like urethane caulking for windows and doors. Expensive, hard to work with, harder to clean up but won't unseal unless hit with a pressure washer. I always run a silicon bead on the outside of the seal to prevent dirt and mold build up on the urethane caulking. Mold can penetrate and lift a urethane seal especially if forced by a pressure washer.


I wonder how fast a moho would have to be traveling to duplicate a 1800 psi pressure washer on a seam? Ever tried using a pressure washer on your car side window seam? Get the towels out!


Local truck stops will wash your coach for you and damage your gaskets for only $60....... You know that the fella's that are hired to wash moho's have college degrees so know better than to hit the build up on the window and door frames, right? UhHuh...... and for $450 smackaroo's I can show you how to improve your 20,000 lb moho's fuel economy to 25mpg!!!!!


So, how can we solve this "how to wash a moho" engineering dilemma?


Use a $10 brush, instead of a pressure washer!!!!
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:14 AM   #27
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Silicone caulk and RV's do not work well together. Silicone WILL come loose over time and allow a leak. Think I'm wrong_ just remove anything sealed with silicone. The silicone will come loose from the joint in a long section instead of being sticky after years in-place like butyl sealant.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:41 PM   #28
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Silicone caulk and RV's do not work well together. Silicone WILL come loose over time and allow a leak. Think I'm wrong_ just remove anything sealed with silicone. The silicone will come loose from the joint in a long section instead of being sticky after years in-place like butyl sealant.

No doubt about it, butyl does have it's uses. I find it hard to make it look nice on expose body parts. I usually use butyl in place of putty tape when the variation in surfaces are less. I still seal the edges with silicon because it gives a better looking end product. Even when I seal with butyl I still coat with roof coating when it is a roof fixture. What I really like is using butyl underneath the coach for sealing wheel wells, floor/wall joints and things like that. Then I coat with rubberized under coating.
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