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Old 07-24-2019, 05:09 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by RELHUB View Post
The way you have it in the drawing looks fine.
I use a very similar setup for my MH and
FORK LIFT.
The 12” top board is not long enough for a 22.5 tire...increasing the chance of going to far forward.
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:16 PM   #30
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One suggestion I would make is to use wood glue suitable for wet locations. We live in humid Florida and have the coach parked on grass/weeds. My concern is that regular wood glue would not survive long term in the moisture.
I'd also use pressure treated lumber.

Mike
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:12 AM   #31
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Like many here I made mine out of 2x12, 4 layers, angled driving edge, and screwed together with deck screws, 4' long. My parking surface is a level concrete pad under a pole barn. I use mine as maintenance ramps, 6 of them. the 4 layers are 6" high (as a couple here said a 2x12 is really 1.5x11.5). The 6" gives me enough room to scoot under the coach with the air fully dumped and not be crushed.

End "stop blocks" won't work unless really tall and several layers. I added a back stop with a section of the 2x12 to the end and the first time the tire hit it, the back stop split off. 35,000 pounds is a lot of force. Mine are just regular white pine so when not in use they are stored inside. The are also heavy so I use a box dolly to move the 2 at a time.
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Old 07-25-2019, 06:41 AM   #32
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If it going to sit for weeks the bottom board should be pressure treared.

Chick the back wheels.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:29 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by drwwicks View Post

End "stop blocks" won't work unless really tall and several layers. I added a back stop with a section of the 2x12 to the end and the first time the tire hit it, the back stop split off. 35,000 pounds is a lot of force. Mine are just regular white pine so when not in use they are stored inside. The are also heavy so I use a box dolly to move the 2 at a time.
I saw a picture where somebody had bolted a 2X bolted vertical. I can see that split easy. I bolted a 4X4 to RR tie, had no issue with it stopping the truck. (for maintenance, I cut the end of tie at angle, backed on to stop, marked where tires where, pulled off, and cut the tie so I could slide the part between axles out of way.)
I would think that if the bottom was treated, or better a rubber mat, the rest of ramp would not need to be treated...
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Old 07-25-2019, 02:30 PM   #34
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I saw a picture where somebody had bolted a 2X bolted vertical. I can see that split easy. I bolted a 4X4 to RR tie, had no issue with it stopping the truck. (for maintenance, I cut the end of tie at angle, backed on to stop, marked where tires where, pulled off, and cut the tie so I could slide the part between axles out of way.)
I would think that if the bottom was treated, or better a rubber mat, the rest of ramp would not need to be treated...
If they are exposed long term to moisture water will wick up between the boards and start the rotting process. Mine might get wet briefly but they have time to dry in the garage.

Reference stop block, a 4x4 securely bolted might hold. I was commenting about a couple examples pictured here with a 2x? nailed/screwed to the end.
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Old 07-26-2019, 02:46 PM   #35
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All built but not prettied up yet with shellac or something.

Yes, I did change the saw blade after I saw the smoke.

I ended up removing the sixth 12x2 section because the three 3/4" pieces of treated plywood more than made up that rise. The total height is 9 3/4".

The motorhome is about 1 degree nose-down when it's on the second-from-top level, which is a rise of 7 1/2". I'm OK with that and dropping the jacks for stability will make up some or all of that one degree. Once I get the blocks to put under the jacks cut and assembled, of course. I'm just going to cut up a 12x2x10' into 10 pieces and fasten five together for each side. That will give me about 7 1/2" under each jack, which kind of works out.

I shortened the top level to 21" which made the second-from-top level 16 1/2"". That better accommodates the 22.5" tires. That 21" will let me secure a 4x4 or two to the top level as a stop block and still have plenty of length for the tires. As of right now I likely will not need to use the top level, which suits me just fine.

I put a handle on one side to help me drag them around because they are quite heavy. As soon as I lifted the handle the whole thing fell on one side, which should have been anticipated. That gave me the idea of adding a pair of rigid caster wheels to that end because dragging them was still quite a chore. This isn't the most laterally stable thing I've ever built but it's stable enough and the wheels make it much, much easier to move.

Thanks to all of you for your thoughts, pictures and suggestions. As you can see I incorporated several of them and the result is a much better, safer product.

Take care,

Ray
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Old 07-26-2019, 03:08 PM   #36
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I'd also use pressure treated lumber.

Mike


Grainger sells a 1/8” thick recycled rubber sheet 2’ x 6’ for $10.20 that will protect the bottom board. I ordered two sheets and cut and glued it to the bottom of my four ramps with 3M contact adhesive. Keeps the wood off the wet concrete and no damage to bottom board. Order it to your local Grainger storefront and no charge for shipping when you pick it up.
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Old 07-26-2019, 03:57 PM   #37
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NXR,
My ramps are longer than yours. I only have a 4 1/2" rise but i moved the stack of boards back 1' from the front end of the bottom board. No chance of tipping down if on an uneven surface. Each "Tread" transition is 20" long which makes it easier to climb onto the top ramp. I beveled the edges at 45 deg. then used a grinder to make the transition a little easier.
I never attempt to drive onto the ramps without a spotter watching me.
Made a mistake once and DW has not forgotten the loss of a couple plates and cups which flew out of a cupboard. Whoops!
I get one of those gentle reminders now and then, you know that Look!
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Old 07-26-2019, 06:53 PM   #38
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The bottom one is 74" and the driveway really is not steep at all. A dog ball will roll to the street but you can walk and catch up to it. But it's right at the 3-degree limit for an absorption refrigerator and that's the biggest concern. The slides are not supposed to be extended unless the vehicle is level also but I'm not as concerned about those.

And yeah, no vehicle movement on those without two people.

Ray
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Old 07-28-2019, 02:52 PM   #39
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Ramps can be made from landscape timbers. No screwing required.
One timber 6x9 about 5" long. cut on a diagonal will provide two ramps.
Measure in from the ends about 2'. On the side. mark a line connecting the two marks. Cut the timber along that line.
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:02 PM   #40
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Thumbs up Your idea is a useful and completely safe solution

Ray,

Your idea is a perfect and safe solution to your situation and I say that with complete confidence and experience because I did exactly the same thing only mine was higher than yours so don't let anyone tell you that it is unsafe or a bad idea because it is not. You will get replies from those who has to post negative things about everything because they just have to say something and just have to get attention. I wish everyone on here ONLY wanted to help each other but unfortunately every group has the chronic complainers and those are in a group to have a place to post something to fulfill their need for attention, they want to argue not help. Continue with your plan, it is a GOOD PLAN and it is also a SAFE PLAN. Happy Trails and Be Safe on your travels!









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My 38' 22,000 lb. motorhome sits at about a 2.2 degree nose-down attitude while parked on our concrete driveway, which is uncomfortably close to the 3-degree limit for a Norcold refrigerator. In addition, the slides are not supposed to be moved unless the motorhome is level. Side-to-side is already level.

I can't use the jacks because it lifts the front wheels off the ground. When I added three 1.5" Quality Plastics blocks it reduced the angle to about half. The three blocks gave me 4.5" of lift under the front tires.

I'm thinking about building a step platform out of 2x12's to get a full 9" of height under the front wheels. In theory it should work because the 2x12's are wider than the 9 3/4" Quality Plastics blocks (and wider than the Michelin XRV tires). This should be far more stable because everything will be deck-screwed together rather than plastic blocks sitting on top of each other.

As you all know, sometimes theory does not work in practice...

So I'm asking anyone with a thought on whether this should work or whether I am missing some basic concept that will spell expensive disaster. I figure I will lower the Lippert (Power Gear) jacks until they just touch the ground for some stability. They will almost be at full extension in the front. I always use wheel chocks on the rear tires in addition to the parking brake.

We always would have a second person watching outside to assure we did not drive off the top of the platform. This is the biggest danger I see but this project is kind of like proofreading your own writing; it rarely works out well.

Thanks,

Ray
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:10 PM   #41
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We have a new 3271sf class C. We have seen a lot of different senerios in the campgrounds we have stayed in. I cut some treated 2x12s and beveled the sides. We carry those because we have had issues getting level. We get the level close and put 10" 2x10s under the jacks so they don't overextend. New to rving but this seems to work for us so far. Lot of weight to carry. We have it evenly stored in storage areas so it all isn't all on one side or the other. But your ramps at home sounds like a great idea. Cheaper than those easily broken plastic ones.
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:16 PM   #42
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I would pour a set of concrete ramps that are anchored to the present base. Drill hole for rebar and fasten with epoxy and then fill the forms for the ramps. Won’t need to deal with the ramps deteriorating. You’ll be happier long term.
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