Wood leveling platform for driveway - incredibly stupid idea or not?

[David K]

I built 4 ramps very similar to what you built (used 2x12 lumber staggered like you did). That way I can raise either the front end (using 2 ramps) or the rear using all 4 ramps under the duals in back. For pads to use under the jacks so I would not extend them too far out, I had a cross tie that I cut 12 inches long and applied 1/2 outside plywood to each side and that is what goes under the jacks so I don't over extend them. I attached a chain to each one of them on the side so I could hook the blocks with my awning rod to pull them from under the jacks after the jacks were retracted.

[Froggy1936]

I would frown on concrete blocks They have been known to crumble . Under weight. Just my opinion, And they are heavier than wood !

[nehog]

I managed to collect a bunch of old 'computer center' steel removable flooring panels. Each is 2x2' and about an inch thick. THey're heavy, but incredibly strong. I might be able to give some away but they would be pickup only in NH...

[jepalmer13]

I ripped pressure treated 3/4" plywood and Gorilla glue. a few screws in each layer to hold it together until the glue sets

[chertman47]

Originally Posted by NXR

My 38' 22,000 lb. motorhome sits at about a 2.2 degree nose-down attitude while parked on our concrete driveway, which is uncomfortably close to the 3-degree limit for a Norcold refrigerator. In addition, the slides are not supposed to be moved unless the motorhome is level. Side-to-side is already level.

I can't use the jacks because it lifts the front wheels off the ground. When I added three 1.5" Quality Plastics blocks it reduced the angle to about half. The three blocks gave me 4.5" of lift under the front tires.

I'm thinking about building a step platform out of 2x12's to get a full 9" of height under the front wheels. In theory it should work because the 2x12's are wider than the 9 3/4" Quality Plastics blocks (and wider than the Michelin XRV tires). This should be far more stable because everything will be deck-screwed together rather than plastic blocks sitting on top of each other.

As you all know, sometimes theory does not work in practice...

So I'm asking anyone with a thought on whether this should work or whether I am missing some basic concept that will spell expensive disaster. I figure I will lower the Lippert (Power Gear) jacks until they just touch the ground for some stability. They will almost be at full extension in the front. I always use wheel chocks on the rear tires in addition to the parking brake.

We always would have a second person watching outside to assure we did not drive off the top of the platform. This is the biggest danger I see but this project is kind of like proofreading your own writing; it rarely works out well.

Thanks,

Ray

I have done the equivalent of the same thing with 3/4" x 2' x 2' pieces of treated plywood but have only gone 3" high to accommodate my nose down situation. 9" may be a bit extreme.

[f14av8r]

Did something very similar. Just remember the things are going to weigh A LOT and the more wood the heavier.

[k_c_rex]

All great ideas for building the ramp out of wood, etc. but I wanted to throw out another idea for you. I saw this idea on an internet site and tried it and love it. I purchased a Stall Mat from the Tractor supply store. I then cut it up in to smaller pieces using a reciprocating saw. I can then put together to make a solid ramp anywhere at the campground or at my house. They are made of rubber and will not deteriorate over time. The down side is they will add a few pounds to carry, but I have used them on nearly every trip I have taken. Sometimes I use them to support the sewer pipe and/or multiple tires when leveling. Happy Trails.

[J Patrick]

One additional thought that I will add based on long experience as a DIYer (former contractor and mechanical engineer), is that common deck screws are not very robust. Any sort of shear (sideways movement) with break the shank. I always use "structural screws" now days on projects that matter. Brands such as GRK are available at home depot and have a better driver than the Phillips head that many deck screws use. They are not fail-safe, but definitely much better, and more expensive, than deck screws.

[RKins]

If you have a Tandem axle in the rear you need to support both tires.
Here is a pic of the ramps I built using 2x8x10 PT. I used 10' boards and it was perfect with a 1' ledge on each level. (yup you have to do math - 6', 5', 4,' 3,' 2' (hint: cut at 45 degrees when you do). When riding up on all 6 you just count the bumps as you pull forward or back, with an observer of course. I took one of the cut-offs and used it as a brake spot.

[peggwn]

Originally Posted by 09 harley

I would pour a set of concrete ramps that are anchored to the present base. Drill hole for rebar and fasten with epoxy and then fill the forms for the ramps. Won’t need to deal with the ramps deteriorating. You’ll be happier long term.

Question - If the coach is being backed into the high end of the drive and backed in toward the house, and the front is away from the house and is being raised, how does one get the back tires over or past the permanently installed ramps that are permanently installed for the front tires?

[MBrant]

I suggest the following changes:

Use a polyurethane glue between the layers. I'm not usually a fan of Gorilla Glue, but this is a perfectly suitable application: strong, waterproof, and gap-filling. A caution: this is one messy glue.

Use two layers of 3/4" plywood glued face to face for the tire-stop piece. You will eventually split the top off the tire-stop, and that will lead to a ... pulmonary event, if no worse.

Add a handle to these beasts. Nobody grow younger.

Seal the wood with paint, varnish, whatever. Keep the water out.
I suggest you attach a long rope to the thin end. As you drive up the ramp, the rear tires will ride on the rope thereby pinning the ramp in place, preventing "scootching".

Find a place to store these beasts BEFORE you make them! This is one of my biggest failings....

[timmer117]

I have used a similar system to level a motorhome first and now my truck camper. Mine is 3 layers screwed with Deck Nails. they work great. My only suggestion is that for the end stops the grain of the wood is vertical then it won't snap in half when your wheel hits it. I also suggest that you use stout and long Lag bolts on the end stop block. My first version the screws snapped off when the tire hit the end. Also in soft ground they will sometimes tip up on the back so have some one watch when you roll up on them.

[Straykat]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Pick it up, with the front levelers, slide blocks under the tires and let it down until the tires touch them.

You can use a concrete block with plywood top and bottom.

A word of extreme caution if you value life. Never use concrete block to support your MH. They are not design to be used that way and could get a crack that you can not see it. If you drive us on them, they may crush then or when you are going in and out of the MH or at any time. I know that people use them all the time to support cars, trucks, MH but because they didn't have a problem with them doesn't make it any safer. Just build them out of 2x10's or 2x12 and plywood as someone else suggested. It only take one time to ruin your day.

[soonersfan]

Never use concrete blocks to support loads, unless they have been reinforced with solid concrete in the voids, they will collapse without warning 😃