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07-07-2015, 03:40 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Franklin, PA
Posts: 6
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Workhorse P-32 Grease Fitting In Bell Crank
I have a 2013 Winnebago Sun ova on a P-32. The brake does not push down like I feel it should. I have been driving Class A motorhomes a long time. I Know Workhorse made changes to the Chevy chassis, and changed the HYDR-Boost. They now have a Bell Crack on the 2013 model, which I have. In 2014 they put a grease fitting in it. They say it needs greased every 6-12 months, but put no grease fitting on it in 2013. The pedal is harder to push then normal' then you don't feel any slight response when you should feel something. Sometimes it will even stick down. I had it to a chevy garage, they said the caliper where working just fine, and it has like brand new disc pads on it. I think either the Bell crank needs grease, or the plunger in the master cylinder, needs rebuilt. I am towing a 2014 chevy equinox behind. Hold could I put a grease fitting on the bell crank, or is it maybe the master cylinder. Any help would be great. I just bought this from Camping World, Akron, OH and was one of the Complaints. I also had a miss in the engine. Chevy garage couldn't fix it because nothing was showing in the code. I replaced the gas filter, no change, bought new plugs and wires, replaced them, and it ran like a dream. But what a job. I'm just getting to old for all this. WOW. Looking for any help on this brake deal. I know it should have more stopping assist then it is. Even with out a dingy behind, you still have to stand on the brake pedal. I'm just not use to the workhorse. All the other gas chassis I've worked on, and am pretty good at them.
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07-07-2015, 05:08 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NH
Posts: 5,099
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I had a issue on my wife's car that I just bought which may or may not help you. First, all new everything down to brake booster, master cylinder, rotors, pads, calipers. Brakes didn't seem right, to much pressure to stop, pedal was not right. I opened the bleeder on one front caliper and let it bleed through, bringing the master cylinder down about half way, closed the bleeder, refilled and did the other side in the same manner. The brakes are spot on now. Just a note, I never saw any air while doing this but the brakes are great now. Hope this helps you.
__________________
Bruce & Nancy
FMCA F280542
2004 Bounder 35E
US Navy Vet.
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07-07-2015, 08:02 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzbetty
I have a 2013 Winnebago Sun ova on a P-32. The brake does not push down like I feel it should. I have been driving Class A motorhomes a long time. I Know Workhorse made changes to the Chevy chassis, and changed the HYDR-Boost. They now have a Bell Crack on the 2013 model, which I have. In 2014 they put a grease fitting in it. They say it needs greased every 6-12 months, but put no grease fitting on it in 2013. The pedal is harder to push then normal' then you don't feel any slight response when you should feel something. Sometimes it will even stick down. I had it to a chevy garage, they said the caliper where working just fine, and it has like brand new disc pads on it. I think either the Bell crank needs grease, or the plunger in the master cylinder, needs rebuilt. I am towing a 2014 chevy equinox behind. Hold could I put a grease fitting on the bell crank, or is it maybe the master cylinder. Any help would be great. I just bought this from Camping World, Akron, OH and was one of the Complaints. I also had a miss in the engine. Chevy garage couldn't fix it because nothing was showing in the code. I replaced the gas filter, no change, bought new plugs and wires, replaced them, and it ran like a dream. But what a job. I'm just getting to old for all this. WOW. Looking for any help on this brake deal. I know it should have more stopping assist then it is. Even with out a dingy behind, you still have to stand on the brake pedal. I'm just not use to the workhorse. All the other gas chassis I've worked on, and am pretty good at them.
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First let me say WELCOME to iRV2 !
Then let me help you get some facts corrected. The LAST year for the P32 chassis was 2005, so I hope WBGO didn't build your 2013 Sunova on one of those. Likewise, the last year WBGO used ANY Workhorse chassis was 2010, so again, your 2013 Sunova should not be on a Workhorse Chassis.
Once we can get the facts straight and are sure of which chassis you have, I'm sure we can help. The 10th digit of your VIN # is the model year, and the 6th character will tell us which chassis you have, assuming it begins with 5B4.....
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07-08-2015, 05:23 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,556
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Is your steering wheel labeled Ford or Workhorse ?
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
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07-08-2015, 06:56 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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On the bell crank..The reason for the grease fitting is not that the pedal was getting harder to push.. It was the opposite.
Workhorse had an issue with the Meritor brakes not releasing.. At first it was though it might be the bell crank sizing slightly so they added the zerk and suggested lubrication..This helped in SOME cases.. But turns out there was a bigger issue,,which they had to fix via recall.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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07-08-2015, 10:31 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Franklin, PA
Posts: 6
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Ed Gray: Everything I have found on this motorhome is: It is a 2014, built on a 2013 chassis, and it was built on a Workhorse P-32 chassis. It is not what they call a W series. It still has the air bags in the front, and just about everything is the same, except engine and tranny. I don't find much difference. I do most of my own work. I could be wrong, but every time I go to get parts, it's for the P series, even the Workhorse Manual I have List the P-32.
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07-08-2015, 03:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzbetty
Ed Gray: Everything I have found on this motorhome is: It is a 2014, built on a 2013 chassis, and it was built on a Workhorse P-32 chassis. It is not what they call a W series. It still has the air bags in the front, and just about everything is the same, except engine and tranny. I don't find much difference. I do most of my own work. I could be wrong, but every time I go to get parts, it's for the P series, even the Workhorse Manual I have List the P-32.
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With sincere respect, Sir, that is not possible. Workhorse stopped production of the P32 chassis line at the end of model year 2005. That was 10 years ago. Is it possible you are meaning to type 2004 and 2003
If you will post the last 8 digits (only) of the chassis vin #, I can download the original build sheet from the Workhorse warranty database and give you much more specific info.
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07-08-2015, 03:32 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
On the bell crank..The reason for the grease fitting is not that the pedal was getting harder to push.. It was the opposite.
Workhorse had an issue with the Meritor brakes not releasing.. At first it was though it might be the bell crank sizing slightly so they added the zerk and suggested lubrication..This helped in SOME cases.. But turns out there was a bigger issue,,which they had to fix via recall.
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NOPE. Just to keep the facts straight, Workhorse had problems with the BOSCH brake calipers; the Meritor calipers were used on the W-24 series chassis, and no recall.
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07-08-2015, 08:23 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,556
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Again, does the steering wheel emblem say Ford or Workhorse?
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
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07-08-2015, 09:30 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Franklin, PA
Posts: 6
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My steering wheel says Workhorse. (OF Course) Workhorse bought that side of Chevy out. I Have a 94 Chevy Bounder which has the Chevy chassis. The steering wheel says Chevrolet, and it looks exactly the same as my Sunova steering wheel, except it says Workhorse. I workhorse Manuals I have, have a picture of the w\Workhorse logo on the outside, but inside it has sections, that will devote entire section to the p-32 chassis, and they made different types during the same period. Mine happens to be one that was built in 2003, and manufactured in 2004. I have replaced the gas filter (P32) Oil Fill (P32) Spark Plugs wire and Plugs P32, and Just bought (2) wheel lug nuts for it from Workhose and they said it was the P32. Now here is my VIN # 5B4LP57G333374250, and it rides just as nice as my 94 bounder with the P32 did. I"M Just not happy with the brakes.
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07-08-2015, 09:41 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Franklin, PA
Posts: 6
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I part forgive me. I have a 2004 Sunova, not a 2014, chassis 2003 not 2013. When you start getting old you do this I guess. any way, back to the brakes. I just went through this with my bounder. Boy what a night mare. Had to replace the control valve, only two left in warehorse in WI $700.00 for it. I finally got it fixed then bought this one. Not sure where to start, I don't think it's the bell crank, I'm looking more to the master cylinder because of its year. Maybe fluid contaminated. I don't know' I just know I don't like the response of the brakes.
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07-08-2015, 10:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzbetty
I part forgive me. I have a 2004 Sunova, not a 2014, chassis 2003 not 2013. When you start getting old you do this I guess. any way, back to the brakes. I just went through this with my bounder. Boy what a night mare. Had to replace the control valve, only two left in warehorse in WI $700.00 for it. I finally got it fixed then bought this one. Not sure where to start, I don't think it's the bell crank, I'm looking more to the master cylinder because of its year. Maybe fluid contaminated. I don't know' I just know I don't like the response of the brakes.
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I downloaded the build sheet for your 2003 P32 chassis. I can attach it to a reply if you send me an email to: edgray1@gmail.com Ed
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07-09-2015, 08:46 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,556
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Here is a link to do the bellcrank fix. (Thanks Oemy)
Oemy's Web Site - Tech Tips
I would also spray white lithium greease on all the brake pedal pivot points and the shaft through the fiewall.
I would also change the brake fluid. New fluid properly bled would also give you piece of mind.
Also I have heard of the flexible brake lines on the front wheels can contribute to poor braking. ( The liner separates and the brakes get spongy) They are 12 years old, might be worth replacing them. If your going to change the fluid anyway.
I might even lube the brake caliper slide pins while I am at it.
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
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